ZLwentietb Century Instruction Book 



7"^ 




ARTISTIC 
Cadie^ Sailor System 






• . - 



MW I^ 



Innnill 

(.COPYRIGHTED) 

VIENNA LADES' TAILORING INSTITUTE 

5 W. 14th ST.. NEW YORK CITY. U. S. A. 



/ 



TO TAKE MEASURE. 



MAY. 7 '902 

CLASS? CV XXC. NO. 

aim** 

COPY " 



TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. 



BUST.— Stand behind the lady— This measure is 
taken over the most prominent point of the bust and 
well up over the shoulder blades in the back — take this 
measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line 
will be smooth — put this measure down I inch more 
than the tape line calls for — " do not forget this. " 

WAIST. — Take this measure around the smallest 
part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch. 

FRONT. — From collar bone to waist line in front — 
add 1 inch to this measure. 

BACK — From joint in neck to waist line. 

UNDER ARM. — Take this measure well up under 
the arm and down to the waist line — put this measure 
down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for. 

NECK. — Around the bare neck easy. 

ARM'S EYE.— Around the arm snug just over the 
point of the shoulder. 

ARM MEASURE. 
1st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow — the 

hand resting on the chest. 
2d. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. 
3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the 

shoulder with the arm bent — take this measure 

snug. 
4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the 

elbow — take this measure in the same manner. 
5th. Around the hand tight 

SKIRT. — From waist line the length desired. 

HIPS. — Around the hips "easy" six inches below 
the waist line. 



TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. 

Be very careful in taking the back and under arm 
measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would 
require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm 
measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder 
and dot 1 should be only three inches from dot 9. 
Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a 
16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot 
1 should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will 
apply to othejf meaeureii-^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back 
measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be 
9 inches. ^^"iV:\:l:\-. ■*:.••. 



TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN. 

Tie a cord around the waist tight and press down 
to the point of mps, and take the measure the same 
as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken 
loose. 



Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape 
line across the back of the neck. Carry the ends for- 
ward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the 
arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw 
very snug straight across the back and place a pin or 
mark at the upper edge of the tape line, in the center 
of back, then measure from the large joint in the neck 
to the pin or mark. This measure must be taken 
exactly as the instructions call for. Do not deviate i 
of an inch. See special instruction for applying this 
measure. , 

Measure down line A from line B the height of shoul- 
der measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from 
dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and 
\ of the bust measure straight out and place dot 1 1 . 
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot 1 1 . 
Finish the balance as per general instructions. 

Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have 
a narrow back in proportion to their bust , measure. 
Take the width of back measure., starting at the cen- 
ter of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the 
neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm 
hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of 
the bust measure in locating dot 1 1 . Take a 42 bust 
and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be 
6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for 
a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin- 
ning at dot 2. In drafting the front take the differ- 
ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting 
the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6 — 4 — and add this 
to 42 would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist 
measure in drafting the front. Use these same propor- 
tions in drafting for other measures. 

IMPORTANT.— The measure should be taken ex- 
actly as the instructions call for — do not deviate to 
please anyone. The bust, waist and neck measures are 
taken in even inches — for instance, should the waist 
measure be 23, put down 23 — should it be nearest 22, 
put it down 22 — take the bust and neck measure in 
the same manner. 

See that the lady stands natural and on both feet. 
Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends 
to wear the dress over, and especially inquire about the 
corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a perfeet 
measure. 

If you have any doubt about the measure take it 
over again before the lady leaves. Do not use a cord 
or belt in taking the measure (except for children) as 
it will make your basque short waisted in back and 
front. For a very full bust the front measure should 
be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line 
calls for. 



S 






These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only in connection with our system. 



\b~9Q£l LUirev 



'J 



BUST 














46 
















BUST 














49 












Waist 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


Waist 


28 


29 


30 181 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


S'l 


38 


39 


Bust No. 


;2 4 


12.! 


m 


I2i 


121 


121 


121 


12 


12 


U* 


1M 


HI 


114 


m 


Bust No. 


12| 


12| 


121 121 


12 J 


L2| 


121 


121 


121 


12 


12 


12 


Darts 


4 


H 


2 ? 


2-1 


H 


2 


2 


] 1 


H 


14 


H 


u 


H 


il 


Darts 


21 


21 


2S 


a* 


21 


21 


2 


n 


11 


l| 


Is 


1J 


Center Back 


i 


i 


11 


11 


\\ 


1} 


H 


1* 


11 


14 


If 


!? 


2 


21 


0. B. 


1 


1 


u 


i| 


U 


1* 


J* 


n 


'1 


2 


2 


21 


Side Body 


2 


2-; 


2;, 


2,', 


2.', 


H 


2? 


23 


3 


31 


31 


3{ 


31 


4 


3. B. 


21 


2,1 


21 


2J 


4 


31 


31 


»i 


H 


34 


34 


«4 


Under Arm 


3* 


H 


H 


34 


H 


H 


31 


4 


4 


H 


H 


41 


*t 


41 

*2 


U. A. 


31 


31 


34 


4 


4 


4 


4* 


4i 


H 


44 


4 4 


4 1 



BUST 



50 



BUST 



51 



BUST 



52 



Waist 


32 


33 ,34 


35 36 


37 38 


39 


40 


Waist 


53 


34 35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 I Waist 


35 36 


37 


38 


39 


40 |41 


Bust No. 


13 


13 


13 


12112? 


121 


121 


12} 


121 


' B. No. 


13 


13 


121 


121 


121 


124 


121 


121! B. No. 


131131 


13 


13 


121 


121,12} 


Darts 


21 


2 


2 


li 


1- 


H 


1 


1 j 


H, 


Darin. 


21 


21 


2 


11 


I), 


1* 


H 


11 


Darts 


n 


21 


2 


11 


u 


1$ ] i 


Center Back 


n 


11 


11 


11 


n 


11 


^ 


i : ! 


2 


C B. 


11 


H 


11 


H 


n 


11 


11 


2 1 


C. B. 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 21 


Side B6dy 


2 i 


H 


3 


3 


31 


31 


3J. 


31 


4 


S. B. 


( 


31 


31 


31 


31 


31 


34 


33 


S. B. 


31 


34 


31 


ok 


.^ 


31 


*i 


Under Arm 


31 


H 


3f 


4 


4 


4 


41 


41 


*1 


U. A. 


4 


4 


41 


41 


44 


41 


41 


411 


U. A. 


41 4* 


44 


44 


4 1 


41 



CHILDREN'S MEASURES. One Dart Only. 



BUST 

Waist 
Bu?t No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 

BUST 



21 



22 



23 



24 



19 


20 


21 


5 


5 


5 


4} 
1 


5 
1 


54 
1 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Front Wai4 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



19 


20 


21 


22 1 


H 


51 


5 


5 


4| 


51 


51 


51 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


•1 


11 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


51 


54 


54 


5J 


54 


41 


51 


54 


5| 


6* 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


If 


11 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



20 


21 


22 


23 


51 


51 


51 


51 


51 


51 


H 


61 


1 


1 


1 


H 


11 


11 


11 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 



24 

51 
6 

11 

2 

2 



25 



27 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


61 


61 


Gl 


6 


6 


54 


6 


6j 


61 


63 


1 


1 


11 


H 


li 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


01 

~4 


21 1 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


64 


64 


64 


64 


6} 


64 


54 


6 


61 


6i 


7 


7 


1 


1 


1? 


H 


11 


14 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 



Waist 

Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



21 

61 

Dt. 1J 

n 
1 
2 
2 



22 

61 
r t. 

«; 

1 



23 
61 

? 

2 
2 



24 
61 

7 
1 
2 
2 



25 
61 

n 

11 

2 

2 



26 

61 
74 
11 
21 
2 



27 
63 

73 

11 

H 

2 J 



BUST 



28 



29 



Waibt 
Waist No. 
Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



2) 21 


22 23 |2t 


25 20 


27 


28 


71 


71 


71 


711 71 


71 71 


7 


7 


71 


71 


71 


71 7 


7 


74 


71 


8 


H 


11 


11 


3 

4 












1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


n 


11 


11 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 


24 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21, 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Waist No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



21) 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


71 


71 


74 


74 


74 


74 


74 


71 


71 


71 


74 


73 


71 


71 


71 


74 


73 


8 


21 


2^ 


2 


I,', 


1 










1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


n 


11 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


24 


24 



23 

71 
H 

11 
21 
24 



BUST 



30 



31 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Waist No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


23 


26 


27 


:H 


74 


74 


74 


74 


71 

■ 2 


74 


74 


74 


74 


71 


71 


71 


71 


73 
•4 


71 


71 


81 


71 


21 


21 


21 


11 


1 


11 


1 


1 




1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


4 


n 


11 


U 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 


21 


9' 


01 

-2 


24 


24 


^2 


2i 


24 


21 


24 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Waist No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



19 
8 
6? 
21 
1 
2 
21 



20 121 
8 8 



H 

H 

1 
2 



71 
2 1 
1 
2 

2 



22 

8 

7J 

11 
1 

2 

21 



23 
8 

71 

11 
1 
2 
21 



21 



25 
8 
71 
11 
11 



1? 

U 
21 21 

24' 24 



2*1 
8 

n 
ii 

21 

21 



27 

8 

81 

11 
1 

21 
21 



28 
8 

84 
1 

11 

2* 

24 



BUST 



31 



BUST 



32 



BUST 



33 



Waist 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


W. 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


Bust No. 


n 


">* 


7$ 


H 


74 


7J 


7* 


B. No. 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


Darts 


2 


2 


l| 


14 


1* 


1 


ft 


D. 


H 


H 


13 


1J 


il 


1 


3 


Center Back 


3 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


H 


C. B. 


4 


1 


1 


1 


H 


H 


11 


Side Body 


2* 


n 


21 


2i, 


2* 


24 


24 


S. B. 


2 


2 


2 


2i 


21 


21 


21 


"Under Arm 


n 


n 


24 


n 


25 


n 


21 


U. A. 


2i 


a* 


»J 


2| 


2i 


24 


2|! 



w. 

B. No. 

D. 

C. B. 

S. B. 

U. A. 



19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


84 


81 


84 


81 


81 


8i 


8J 


81 


2 


11 


1| 


1* 


H 


11 


1 


A 


3 

4 


j} 


1 


1 


1 


U 11 


n 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 


2i 2-i 


24 


2i 


2J 


2' 


n 


n 


2J 


2' 


2 4 



27 " 

81 
1 

H 

n 



BUST 



34 



BUST 



35 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



19 20 

81 

1; 

1 



81 



2< 
21 



9 
21 



21 

8| 

if 
1 

2 

21 



22 

81 

H 
1 

21 
21 



23 

81 
ljj 

M 
2< 



24 

81 

11 
11 

n 
24 



25 

8J 
1 

11 

2i 
24 



26 

s 

n 

2| 



27 

1 

2i 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


8i 


81 


81 


21 


21 


2 


11 


11 


11 


If 


n 


1 

X 


7 

n 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


1? 


1* 


ll 


H 


2 


21 


21 


21 


2* 


2* 


2i 


2* 


2* 


3 


2i 


2i 


n 


21 


2* 


H 


21 


3 


3 


3 



BUST 



36 



BUST 



Waibt 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 j 


W. 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


Bust No. 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


9 


9 


9 


81 


81 


8! 1 


B. No. 


9! 


91 


n 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 

11 


91 


91 


9 


9 


9 


9 


Darts 


24 


n 


2 


2 


1? 


11 


H 


11 


11 


1 


1 


I 1 


D. 


2i 


24 


21 


21 


21 


2 


11 


14 


1* 


H 


1 


1 


R- 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


14 


n 


n 


11 


C. B. 


3 
4 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


H 


H 


14 


n 


11 


2 


2 


Side Body 


2 


21 


2 


21 


24 


2i 


n 


21 


21 


n 


3 


311 


S. B. 


If 


2 


2 


21 


2? 


2 1 


21 


3 


3 


3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


Under Ann 


n 


24 


n 


n 


2| 


n 


2| 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


U. A. 


24 


n 


21 


21 


3 


3 


3 


3 


3 


3 


31 


31 


3i 


H 



BUST 



38 



BUST 



39 



Waist 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


W. 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


Bust No. 


10 


10 


10 


10 


10 


10 


94 


91 


94 


94 


9 


9 


9 


9 


B. No. 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


10 


10 


91 


91 


9 * 


Darts 


24 


24 


21 


21 


2 


11 


11 


14 


14 


11 


11 


1 


1 


1 


D. 


24 


2? 


2J 


2 


1? 


11 


14 


n 


11 


1 


1 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


14 


14 


14 


11 


11 


11 


2 


21 


C. B. 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


H 


14 


M 


11 


Side Body 


11 


21 


21 


21 


24 


2i 


2f 


21 


3 


3 


34 


34 


34 


31 


S. B. 


21 


21 


21 


2i 


24 


24 


24 


2 f 


21 


3 


3 


3 1 


Under Arm 


24. 


24 


24 


24 


'21 


24 


3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


34 


31 


31 


U. A. 


2i 


24 


24 


21 


24 


21 


21 


3 


3 


3 


31 


31 



BUST 



40 



BUST 



41 



Waist ^2 


23 ,24 


25 


26 


27 28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


Waist 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 ,29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


Bust No. 


104 


104 


101 


104 


10 


10 


10 


91 


91 


91 


94 


94 


Bust No. 


101 


104 


104 


104 


10 


10 


10 


91 


9f 


9 1 


94 


94 


94 


Darts 


24 


21 


21 


2 


n 


11 


14 


11 


ll 


1 


1 


1 


Darts 


21 


24 


24 


21 


21 


2 


If 


If 


14 


11 


n 


1 


1 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


14 


14 


14 


14 


14 


H 


If 


2 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


n 


14 


li 


1J 


If 


11 


11 


Side Body 


2 


2 


21 


n 


24 


n 


21 


21 


3 


3 


31 


34 


Side Body 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


3 


3 


31 


3^ 


31 


34 


34 


31 


Under Arm 


21 


21 21 


2% 


-3 


3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


31 


31 


Under Arm 


3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


3? 


34 


31 


31 


31 


4 


4 


H 



BUST 



42 



BUST 



43 



Waist 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


Waist 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


60 


31 


32 


33 


34 


Butt No. 


11 


11 


11 


11 


104 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


10.1 


101 


101 


Bust No. 


HI 


HI 


HI 


HI 


11 


11 


11 


103 


101 


101 


104 


104 


Darts 


n 


24 


24 


21 


24 


2 


11 


11 


Is 


14 


14 


11 


1 1 


Darts 


23 


24 


21 


21 


2,' 


2 


If 


1? 


14 


14 


11 


1 


Center Back 


1 


u 


11 


H 


11 


11 


11 


14 


14 


14 


n 


If 


11 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


14 


14 


If 


11 


11 


Side Body 


2 


2 


21 


21 


24 


24 


24 


n 


3 


31 


34 


34 


34 


Side Body 


2 


2 


21 


21 


24 


21 


2f 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


Under Arm 


24 


21 


H 


2 f 


31 


3* 


31 


34 


3i 


31 


31 


31 


31 


Under Arm 


3 


3 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


31 


34 


34 


3! 31 



BUST 



44 



BUST 



45 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



114 
21 
1 

21 
3 



24 25 26 27 28 



4* 

24 
1 

21 
3 



114 

24 

11 

24 
3 



111 
21 
11 



HI 
2 

il 

24 

n 



9 30 31 32 



HI 

11 
11 

24 
3| 



HI 
11 
14 
2f 
31 



11 

14 
14 
21 
34 



11 

14 

11 
3 

3J 



3 34 35 Waist 



11 

11 
11 



101 

li 

x 4 

12 



101 

1 
11 



3i 34, 
311 31 



Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 135 36 



12 

21 
1 
2 
21 



12 

24 
1 
2 
21 



12 

24 
11 
2 
3 



12 
21 

11 

n 
3 



hi 
21 
ii 

24 

31 



HI 



11 
H 



HI 
if 
il 

24 

31 



114 
If 
14 
21 

34 



111 

14 
H 
21 
34 



HI 
11 
14 
2| 
34 



niui 



HI 
1 
If 

311 3l| 34 
3! 33 3? 



Ill 1 
141 14 



BUST 



46 



BUST 



47 



Waist 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 130 131 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 1 


Waist 


26 


27 


2S 29 


30 


31 


32 33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


Bust No. 


12 


12 


12 


HI 


111 111 114 


114 


114 


111 


n| 


111 


11 


Bust No. 


12 


12 


12 


113 


Uf 


11? 


11* 


114 


114 


HI 


HI 


11 


11 


Darts 
Center Back 


21 
1 


21 
11 


24 


21 
11 


2| 

n 


2 

11 


2 
14 


11 
H 


14 


14 
14 


14 
il 


11 
11 


11 

2 1 


Darts 
C. B. 


21 
1 


2 1 
11 


24 
11 


21 
11 


2 


11 

11 


11 

14 


1^ 
V 


14 
1* 


14 
1? 


il 


11 
11 


11 
2 


Side Body 


2 


21 


21 


21 


24 


2f 


3 


3 


31 


34 


3? 


3| 


4 


S. B. 


21 


24 


24 


24 


24 


2! 


23 


3 


3, 


3i 


3 1 


4 


4 


Under Arm 


31 


H 


31 


34 


3 J 


31 


31 


31 


?i 


4 


4 


4 


41 


U. A. 


3i 


34 


34 


31 


3 1 


H 


4 


4 


4 


41 


41 

*4 


41 


H 





For long shoulders draft 
line H Vx inch longer than 
the proportionate shoulder 
measure and place dot 1 1 . 
Measure straight down 
from dot I I and 3/6 inch 
in and place dot 12. Use 
letter V to draft line K. 



Bust ... 3 + 

Waist -- " 

Front . _.--.... 14 

Back -. - 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck _ 11 

Ann's Eve - - ' 6 

To Locate Dot 12. 



Arm's Eye Measure. 

12, 13 and 14 — 1 

15 " 16 — 2 

■ I? << 18—2^ 

19 " 20 — % 

21 " 22 23/ 



CENTER BACK. 

Draft lines A and B -'4' inch fr° m the edge and end of cloth. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck 
dot 2 down line A fr° m 'i ne B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


# 


% 


3/8 


X 


^8 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


»3 


h 


'5 


16 17 


18 


Dot 3 


H 


H 


1 


iyi 


i# 


I -> 8 


iy 2 


«#| '" : 4 


1 ", 2 


2 '8 



34 inches. 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from -i"c 
A and place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure down line A from line B the length of back measure and place dot 4. 

Draft line B straight out from dot 4 about 5 inches. 

Measure one inch from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5. 

Measure the distance 'from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center 
back and place dot 6. 

Draft line E beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex- 
tending 34 inch below. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7. 

Measure }4 inch in towards line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 8. 

Measure 6j4 inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9. 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the 
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. See table on curve. 

Measure 2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12. 

Place the point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12. 

Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6. 

Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6. 

SIDE FORM. 

Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting the short arm on 
dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12. 

Measure zj4 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N. 

Measure 2}4 inches from dot 6 on line B and place dot 3. 

Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A t0 dot 3 extending '_, inch below. 

Measure the distance given in the table for the width of side body from dot 
3 and place dot 4. 

Measure l/x inch from dot 2 on line N and place dot 5. 

Place letter fl on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5. 

Measure I l / 2 inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 8. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. 

Measure )/■, inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8. 

Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 and place dot 9. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Draft line F from the end of line A to dot 10. 

UNDER ARM FORH. 

Measure 3 inches from dot 4 (in side form) and place dot 2. 

Measure out from dot 2 the width of the under arm form as given in the 
table and place dot 3. 

Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side form and then 
measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Measure I }(. inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from 
dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7. 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 

Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 1 , 

Measure 1 \A, inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. 

Measure 1 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Place letter A orl dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. 




■3U&.C 




C SW\ SViA 



For long 


shoul- 


ders draft 


line Q 


y 2 inch 


more 


than the p 


ropor- 


tionate shoulder 


measure 


a n d 


place dot 


22. 


Measure 


itf 


inches in 


from 


dot 23 and 


place 


dot 24. 





To Locate Dot io From Dot 8. 
Waist Measure. 

1 8 to 20- . I 

2 1 tO 23 1^ 

2+ to 27 \y 

27 & 28 1^ 

29 & 30 . . 2 

3' & 32 -- 2% 

Above 32 inches the same proportion. 

To Place Dot 1 2 From Dot 1 1 . 
Waist Measure. 

19, 20 and 21 — y inch. 
22, 23 and 24 — 34 " 
25, 26 and 27 — 1 " 
28, 29 and 30 — 1% " 
Above 30 inches in same proportion. 



inch 



FRONT. 

Draft line A ' %i inches from the edge of goods. 
Draft line B one 'nch ft" 001 the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table (according to size of neck} under 
dot 2 on ' m e A fr° m hne B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


2 


»tf 


z% 


2 H 


3 


iVa 


1% 


3% 


4 
■5 


16 

3' 3 


4J^ 

'7 
3* 


4 -'u 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


I 2 


•3 


14 


18 


Dot 3 


2 


2 y 


*tf 


23 8 


zy 2 


2^| 2 34 


2-8 


3 


TT X 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B frcin line 
A and place dot 3. 

Measure Ag inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X. 

Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. 

Measure ' 4 of the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place dot 5. 

Draft from dot X to dot 5. 

Place the corner of square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out beginning 6 
inches from dot Jj, 

Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for Bust num- 
ber and place dot 0. 

Measure the length ot under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place 

dot 7. 

Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. 

Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7, 

Measure 2 inches down line E from dot (J and place dot 9. 

Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line G out 4 
inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4. 

Measure 1 y inches on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10. 

Measure the width of the dart, as given in the table, from dot 10 and place 
dot 11. 

Measure y inch from dot \\ and place dot 12. 

Measure y inch more than the width of the first dart from dot 12 and place 
dot 13. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the first dart and add 
y? inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the second dart and add 
. y inch, then measure that distance on fine G from dot 4 and place dot 15. 

Place the V 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 

Turn the curve over and draft line I using the y mark. 

Draft lines J and K > n 'ike manner. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16. 

Measure y inch in from dot 16 and place dot 17. 

Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 17. 

Draft lines BI ) N and parallel with line L. 

Measure 2 y inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 

Place letter A on dot 1 and draft line P to dot 19. 

Measure by inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. 

Measure I y inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q y 
inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22 (tee table 
on curve for distance}. 

Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D. 

Measure I y, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23. 

Measure y inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 

Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 

Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. 

The front can be curved if desired. 

Place letter E on dot X and draft a curved line T to meet line A I l /i. 
inches below dot 4. 

Place letter H on the end of line T and draft to meet line A 3 inches below 
dot 8. See dotted lines. 

Important — The front shoulder is drafted y inch shorter than the back and 
must be stretched to meet the back. 




TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT 
WAIST MEASURE. 

1 8 to 20 . . . 2 

21 " 22 

23 " 2 4 - 

25 " 26- 

27 " 28 

z 9 " 3° 

3 1 " 3 2 - - 

Above 32 inches in same proportion. 
i-io of Waist Measure. 



inches 



2 X 

3 

VA 



BIAS DART. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes : 

Place dot 9 on line E 1 l /> inches from dot 6. 

Measure 1 yi, inches out from dot 13 and place new dot 13. 

Place the y 2 mark on new dot 13 and draft to dot 15. 

Draft line parallel with line N. 

Measure 1 y 2 inches straight out from dot ^ and place new dot 7. 

Measure 3{ inch straight up from new dot 1 and place dot X. 

Draft from dot X to dot 13. 

Place the corner of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from 
dot X the length of under arm and place new dot 6. 
Place letter A on dot X and draft line E to new dot 6. 
Measure 3^ inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot 18. 
Measure ; inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 
Place letter A on dot X and draft to dot 19. 

Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot 23 2 inches up 
from line J} and drafting to new dot 6. 

For a stout lady with high or full shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above 
dot 2 and place a new dot 3 3/j[ inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted 
lines. For slender forms take a small plait in the lining at the point of the bias 
dart. See dotted lines. 

WAIST WITH ONE DART. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the darts, omitting line E- 

Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10- 

Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 4. 

Extend line H to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8- 

Measure 2^ inches from dot 10 and place dot H on line F- 

Measure 1 inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and 
place dot 12- 

Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on line G- 
Place the V 2 mark on dot \\ and draft line I to dot 14. 
Turn the curve over and draft line J. 
Draft lines L and M straight down. 
Measure % inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. 
Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. 
Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. 

Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6- 
See diagram. 

Measure 3 inches out from dot 15 and place dot 18- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 

Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19. 

THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS. 

There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street, 
and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit 
and workmanship. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that 
commands respect. For business, shopping, or railroad travel, it has no equal. 
You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being treated as one, no mat- 
ter where you go. The market is full of Drafting Machines, Charts, and other 
contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. Not one of them can properly cut a 
tailor fitting costume— that can be done only on the material the same that a 
merchant tailor cuts for a man. First-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You 
cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. Investigate 
before you make an investment. 



BIAS FRONT. 




Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A 
from line B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



This waist is very effective when the 
bust is full with a small waist. It can be 
cut with good effect on a true bias of both 
lining and material. 

Fifty (S50.00) dollars Reward will be 
paid for the conviction of any one infring- 
ing on any of our copyrights. 



Dot 2 


*Y* 


-U 


3 


3 M 


5/2 


3H 


4 


4'A 


Neck size 


IO 


I I 


1 2 


"3 


14 


15 


16 


•17 


Dot 3 


*ti 


2}i 


3 


3*A 


3# 


3 3 /& 


2>% 


3 5 /8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B 
from line A and place dot 3. 

Measure y 2 inch straight out from dot 2 and place new dot 2- 

Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure y^ the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place 
dot 4- 

Measure yi. the arms eye measure down line A from line B and place 
dot 5. 

Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 

Measure the distance given in the table for bust number out line D 
from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7- 

Measure the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7 and place 
new dot 7- 

Place letter A Y2 inch above new dot 7 and draft line E from new dot 
7 to dot 6- 

Measure the length of front measure down line A from dot 2 and place 
dot 8- 

Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line 6 to new dot 7- 

Place letter E on new dot 2 and draft line F to meet line A one inch 
below dot 4. 

Place letter on the end of line F, the edge of curve on dot 8 and 
extend line F 3 inches below dot 8. 

Draft a one inch dart half way between dots 4 and 5, extending 2^ 
inches out. See diagram. 

Measure l /s the distance between dots 7 and 8 on line G from dot 8 
and place dot 10. 

Measure the width of the second dart from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Place the corner of the square on dot 4 and draft line H straight out 3 
inches, beginning 1% inches from dot 4- 

Measure straight up from dot 10 and place dot 12 on line G- 

Place letter A on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12- 

Turn the curve over and draft line R\ 

Measure $ l A inches straight down from the centre of the dart and place 
dot 13- 

Draft line L from dot 10 to dot 13- 

Draft line M straight down from dot H. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot X- 

Place letter A, curve in, on new dot 7 and draft to dot X- 

Measure 6% inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 14- 

Measure i}( inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 15 and draft line M. 
l/ 2 inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 16- 

Draft line N straight down from dot 16 to line D- 

Measure 1% inches up line N from line D and place dot 17- 

Measure y 2 inch straight in from dot 17 and place dot 18- 

Place letter D on dot 18 and draft line to dot 6- 

Place letter K on dot 18 and extend line to dot lfj- 




MEASURE. 

Bust 36 

Waist 22 

Front 14 

Back .- --- 16 

Under Arm - 8 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye — 16 



CENTRE BACK. 

Draft lines A and B H mch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure the distance ' given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from 

line R and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 



H 



Neck Size J 7 
3 , 



iya 



1 1 



lM 



12 



i-H; 



«3 



I 1 /. 



H l S 



iM 



yk 


16 | 17 


,8 


i7 A 2 


2}i 



Dot 3 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place dot 4. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 

Measure 3 + inch out from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5. 

Measure the distance given in the table for width of center back on line D 
from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Draft line E from dot 2 through dot 5 extending -^ inch below. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and pl* ce dot 7. 

Measure ' . inch straight in from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Draft line f from the end of line E t0 dot 8. 

Measure 6 ' .. inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. 

Measure 4!^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place letter A ° n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the 
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H (See table on curve.) 

Measure 1 3 4 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12- 

Measure >- 2 inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 13- 

Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 

Place letter V on dot 12, the edge of curve on dot 13 and draft line K 
from dot 12 to letter J on the curve. 

Reverse the curve. Place letter N on dot 6 and continue line K to dot 6- 

Draft line 6 straight down from dot 6- 

SIDE FORH 

Place the long arm of square on line A in the back drafting, the short arm on 
dot 12 and draft line N straight out. 

Measure 2 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 1 on line N 

Measure 2 inches out line D fr orn dot 6 and place dot 2- 

Measure '_' inch from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

Place letter" V on dot 1 the edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line A from dot 
1 to letter J on the curve. 

Place letter A on the end of line A and continue line A % inch below dot 3. 

Measure out from dot 3 the width of side form and place dot 4 

Measure 1 }i inches from dot 1 on line N and place dot 5- 

Place letter (J on dot 5 and draft line B to dot 4-. 

Measure 2j4 inches down line B fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Place the point of curve on dot 1 and draft line (J to dot 6- 

Measure 1 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot ^ and place dot 8- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- 

Measure ]/ 2 inch in from dot 2 and place dot 9- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Draft line P from the end of line A to dot 10- 

UNDER ARH FORH 

Measure 314 incnes out from dot 4, *» side form, and place dot 2- 
Measure the width of under arm, as given in the table, out from dot 2 and 

place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side brm and then 

measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 
Measure 1 y x inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm form and place dot 6 
Place the corner of square on dot 3 tne ed ge on dot 6 and measure up from 

dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- 
Place the letter U on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3- 
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- 
Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 on line D and place dot 8- 
Measure ; inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- 
Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- 
Measure 1 inch from dot 3 and place dot 10- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

«< 1 T¥ __ J_. O .... 1 J-.,!", i;„o V t» ,t, f 11 




MEASURE. 

Bust 34 

Waist — 22 

Front 14 

Back . — 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck 11 

Arm's Eye 16 



SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. 

Draft line A 1 Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B ' mcn from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from 
line B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


1 

7 

2 


8 


9 


■ 3 4 
10 

23/a 


2 
1 1 

2^ 


1 2 


2% 


*H 


3 
is 

3 


z% 


lV2 


3 3 /4 


Neck Size 


13 


14 

2^ 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


2>£ 


*x 


2^ 


234 


3rt 


3>4 


3^ 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line 
A and place dot 3. 

Place letter (J on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure I inch less than 3^ of the arm's eve measure down line A fr° m line 
B and place dot 4- 

Measure I inch less than 1 ' 2 the arm's eve measure down line A from line B 
and place dot 5- 

Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 5. 

Measure the distance of bust number from dot 5 ° !1 line B and place dot (J. 

Measure straight down from dot B the length of under arm and place dot 7. 

Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. 

Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. 

Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. 

Measure 2' 2 inches out from dot 7 and place dot 18. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 

Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. 

Measure 6 ) i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. 

Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 

Place letter A ° n dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q '•< inch 
less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. 

Measure I l A inches up line R from line B and place dot 23. 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 

Place letter fl on dot 24 aud draft line S to dot 6, 

Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. 

When a tight fitting lining is desired draft the darts the same as for a plain 
waist. 

BACK. 

Draft lines A an d B 3/( inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A fr° m 
line B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


1 


I 

8 


1 


iy& 


1 1 


1% 


Ijfl IA 8 


I 3/8| I ^ 


'#l»# 


Neck Size 


7 


9 
i]4 


10 


I 2 


»3 j '4 


1 5 1 16 


17 |i8 


Dot 3 


1 j y 


1-V1 


2 


2)4 


*x 


23/6 2)4 


z^i 2 34 


2 "si 3 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line 
A and place dot 3. 

Place letter B on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Draft line B straight out from dot 4. 

Measure 1 inch from dot 4 ° n line B and place dot 5. 

Measure out line B fr° m dot 5 the combined width of center-back side body 
and under arm form and place dot 6, 

Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and diafting through dot 5, ex- 
tending 3/£ inch below. 




MEASURE. 

Bust 36 

Waist . . . 24 

Front 14 

Back 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck 11 

Arm's Kye 16 



Ivieasure 6 Y 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. 
Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch 
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. 

Measure y± of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot 

12. 

Measure 3.^ inch less than the width of under arm form straight out from dot 
12 and place dot 13- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the 
length of under arm and place dot 14- 

Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\. 

Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6- 

Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist. 

TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAIST— BACK. 

Draft lines A and B -/\ inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 
B and place dot 2- 



Dot 2 


1 


1^ 


\yi is/a 


^ 


Neck Size 


7 8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


•3 


«4 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


15/8 


134I I ^ 


2 


2}4 


*X 


2^8 


**A 


*# 


Z Y\ 


zys 


2 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3- 

Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of back on line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 

Measure I inch on line D fr om dot 4 and place dot 5> 

Measure the combined width of center back and side-body on line D from dot 
5 and place dot (J- 

Draft line E, beginning 4 inches below line B and drafting through dot 5, ex- 
tending yl inch below. 

Measure 6 J 3 ' inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9- 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 1 /l inch 
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\. 



12- 



Measere yi of arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place dot 

Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 

Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6- 

Finish 3 inches below the waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist. 

UNDER ARM FORM. 

Measure 3 inches on line D fr° m dot 6 and place dot 2- 

Measure the width of under arm out from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots B and 12 in the back, then measure that 

distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Measure 1 ^ inches straight out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- 

Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and maausure up the 

length of under arm and place dot 7- 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- 

Place letter M on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3- 

Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- 

Finish 3 inches below waist line with the same spring as for a plain waist. 

Use the regular shirt waist front, drafting the darts the same as for a plain 

waist. See dotted lines. 

CAUTION. 

This system is copyrighted. Any one using the Tables, Curves, or Instruc- 
tions in any other manner than with our Tailor System of Cutting will be prose- 
cuted to the fullest extent of the law. 





SHIRT WAIST— BACK. 

i. Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on l' ne A 
from line B and place dot 2' * 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


5/8 


H 


H 


H 

IO 


3 / 

II 

1% 


3* 

I 2 

2 


'3 

2>^ 


I 


I 


16 

*/ 


i7 


*K 


Neck Size 


7 

1^5 


8 


9 


14 


2^i 


18 


Dot 3 


*# 



3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on l> ne B 
from line A an d place dot 3- 

4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 an d draft line C t0 dot 3- 
Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 arid place dot 4- 
Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 
Measure one inch from dot 4 and place dot 5- 



5- 

6. 

7- 

8. 



Measure I y^ inches more than the combined width of Center Back 



and side body from dot 5 and place dot 0. 
9. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 

10. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 an d l A inch in and 
place dot 7- 

1 1 . Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 7- 

12. Measure 6 )4 inches on line B fro™ dot 3 an d place dot 9- 

13. Measure 3 1 i inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10- 

14. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line 
H *£ inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot \\. 

15. Measure 2 inches more than J^ of arm's eye measure straight down 
from dot H and place dot 12- 

16. Measure J^ of the width of the under arm straight out from dot 12 
and place dot 13- 

17. Place the point of the curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot J J. 

18. Place letter (J on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 6. 

19. Measure one inch straight out from dot 6 and 5 inches straight down 
and place dot 14 

20. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line L to dot 14- 

SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. 

1 . Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. 

2. Draft line B / inch from the end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 ° n line A 
from line B an d place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE 



Dot 2 


7 
2 


2 
8 

2 r 8 


2 

9 


^A 


2/2 


2 3/ 
12 


3 
13 


3/ 
14 


1% 
15 


3/ 
16 


4 
17 


*H 


Neck Size 


10 

2 i ;-; 


I I 


18 


Dot 3 


2*4 


*tt 


234 


zj4 


3 


3,! 8 


3/ 


3% 



4. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 ° n line B 
from line A and place dot 3- 

5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

6. Measure i L , inch less than \? the arm's eye measure down line A 
from line B and place dot 5- 

7. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 

8. Measure the distance ofbust number on line Dh"om dot 5 and place dot 6. 

9. Measure 3^ of the width of under arm form out from dot Q and place dot X 

10. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7- 

1 1 . Measure 1 y£ inches less than the width of the under arm form 
straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

12. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in the back then place 
the corner of square on dot '8 the edge on dot X and measure that distance up 
from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

13. Place letter R on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 8- 

14. Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 8 and 5 inches straight down 
and place dot 10. 

15. Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line P to dot 10- 

1 6. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 
11 on line A- 

17. Place letter G on dot H and draft line F to dot 8- 

18. Measure 6 'i inches from dot 3 and place dot 20 on line B- 

19. Measure 2 ' 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

20. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 
Q y 2 inch less than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 

2 1 . Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- * 

22. Measure 1 y 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- 

23. Measure J^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 

24. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 

25. Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22. 

26. Place letter D on dot 9 and draft in to dot 6. 




TWO UNDER ARM SHAPES. 



For all waist measures up to 32 make the center of back 
one inch. For all waist measures over 32, make the cen- 
ter of back 1 % inches. 

For example take 42 bust and 30 waist. 

The table gives for the center of back, 1 % inches 
For the side body, 3 inches. 
For under arm shape, $}4 inches. 
Make the following changes : 

Take from the back l /> inch. 

" " " side body '_• " 
" " " front 1 " 



Total, 2 

Add the width of under 

arm shape, 3^ 



Making, $}4 " 

This gives two under arm shapes, 2^ inches each. 
First under arm shape : 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the follow- 
ing changes : 



Place dot 5 1% inches from dot 4. 
Place letter Q on dot 5 in drafting line A. 
Place dot 7 straight up from 3 — '2 inch more than tr. 
length of the under arm measure, and place dot 8 in frorr. 
dot 2 only one inch. 

Second under arm shape : 

Draft the same, placing dot 4 straight up from dot 2 — .' i 
inch more than the under arm measure. Place dot 5 one 
inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 
the actual length of arm measure. Place dot 8 but one 
inch in from dot 2. 

When the style of goods will permit the two under arm 
forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material 
with good effect. 

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 

Bust 42 

Waist 30 

Front 15 

Back 17 

Under Arm 8 

Neck ij 

Arm's Eye 17 




FOR VERY LARGE LADIES. 

BACK. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one 
inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H. 

FIRST SIDE BODY. 

Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 — J /^ inches from 
dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B- 

SECOND SIDE BODY. 

Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6 
Place dot dot 5 — % inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from 
dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on 

dot 5 to draft line B- 

FIRST UNDER ARM FORM. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 — l A inch more than 
the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch 
from dot 2- 

SECOND UNDER ARM FORM. 

Draft the same, placing dot 4 — l A inch more than the under arm 
measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm 
measure up from dot 3- 

See measure for practice. 

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 

Bust 50 Under Arm 8 

Waist 40 Neck 15 

Front 16 Arm's Eye 19 

Back 17 

Take from the front, ... 1 inch. 

" " back, 1 

Add width of side body,. 4 " 

" " " under arm shape 4^ " 



Total 10^ 

This will give the width of the side body, each 2%. 
Width of under arm shape, each 2^. 




PRINCESS— FRONT. 

i. Draft line A ' H inches from the edge of cloth. 

2. Draft line B l /i inch ^ rom the en ^ of" cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. 

4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under 
dot 3 on line B and place dot 3- 

5. Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X- 

6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 

7. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m ' ine B and 
place dot 4- 

8. Measure '4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place 
dot 5- 

9. Draft from dot X to dot 5- 

10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 

11. Measure out line D from dot 5 )i inch less than the table gives for 
Bust number and place dot (J. 

12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g 
and place dot 7- 

1 3 . Measure ]£ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and 
place dot 0- 

14. Place letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 

15. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 
8 on line A- 

1 6. Place letter A (curve up) on dot and draft line F to dot 8- 

17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 and place dot 9- 

18. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft 
line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 

19. Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on 
line F from dot 8 and place dot 10- 

20. Measure ]4 the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot H. 

21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12- 

22. Measure }{, of the width of the second dot from dot 12 and place 
dot 13. 

23. Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to line 6 and 

place dot 14. 

24. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line G and 

place dot 15. 

25. Place the y 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H. 

26. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner. 

27. Draft lines L & M and N & to meet 6 inches straight down 
from the center of the dart. 

28. Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20- 

29. Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

30. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 
V inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 

3'- 
3 2 - 
33- 
34- 
35- 



Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 
Measure 1 y? inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- 
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- 
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- 
Place letter K on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22- 
Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back. 
For Low Cut Corset line G should be lowered one inch. 
dotted line. 



See 





MEASURE. 




Bust 




36 


Waist . 




24 


Front 




>5 


Back . 




16 


Under Arm 




8 


Neck 




12 


Arm's Eye 




16 



UNDERARM. 

1 . Extend line F 6 inches straight out from dot 7- 

2. Measure 1 '4 inches from dot 7 and place dot 2- 

3. Measure ^ inch more than the table gives for the width of under 
arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

4. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and 
then measure that distance straight up from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

5. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

6. Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight in from dot 4 
and place dot 6- 

7 . Place the corner of square on dot 2 the edge on dot 6 and measure 
up from dot 2 the length of the underarm measure and place dot 7- 

8. Measure }£ of the width of both darts out from dot 2 and place 

dot 8- 

9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 3- 






MEASURE 




Bust 

Waist . 
Front 




36 
24 

'5 


Back . 




16 


Und^r Arm 




8 


Neck . 




12 


Arm's Eye 




16 



10: Place letter R on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 8- 
I 1. Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line C t0 dot 5- 
1 z. Draft lines P and E t0 meet 5 inches straight down from dot 2 
Use letter A- 

13. Measure 2 l / 2 inches from dot 3 and place dot 9- 

14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 9 ar| d place dot 10- 
1 5. Place the y? mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 10. 

16. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 10 and extend 
line F the length of the skirt. 

PRINCESS— BACK. 

1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth. 

2. Draft line B Vz inch from end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in the back neck table (on the curve) 
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A from line Band place dot 2- 

4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on 
line B from line A and place dot 3- 

5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

6. Measure the length of back measure down line A from dot 2 and 
place dot 4- 

7. Draft line B IO inches straight out from dot 4- 

8. Measure 1^ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

9. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of center back 
from dot 5 and place dot 6» 

10. Draft line E fr° m dot 2 to dot 5- 

; 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

1 2. Place the ' 2 mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F to dot 7- 

13. Place the corner of square (or skirt rule) on dot 5 the edge on dot 7 
and extend line F the length of skirt. 

14. If fullness is desired in the back of skirt then measure in from dot 5 
about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F- See dotted line. 

1 5. Measure 6y 2 inches from dot 3 ° n line B and place dot 9- 

16. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

17. Place letter A ° n dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line 
H 3 ^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 . 

18. Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight 
down from dot \\ and 3/£ inch straight in and place dot 12- 

19. Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 

20. Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot 6. 



SIDE FORM. 

1 . Place the long arm of square on line A > n the back the short arm on 
dot 12 and draft line N straight out 4 inches. 

2. Measure 2 inches from dot 12 and place dot 2 on line N- 
Measure 2 inches from dot 6 and place dot 3 on line B- 
Place letter Jj on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3- 

5. Measure y£ inch more than the table gives for the width of side- 
body and place dot 4 on line B- 

6. Measure \% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 and place dot X- 

7. Measure 3^ inch from dot 2 and place dot 5 on line N- 
Place letter fl on dot X and draft line B to dot 5- 

9. Measure 1 r ^ inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 5. 
10. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J. 
I 1. Draft lines E and J to meet 7 inches straight down from the center 



1 2 
'3 
'4 

'5 



of line B between dots 6 and 3- 



Measure l A inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Place the yi mark on dot X and draft from line E to dot 8- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 8 and extend 



line E the length of the skirt. 




MEASURE. 



Bust 

Waist 

Front 

Back 

Under 

Neck 

Arm's 



Eye 



36 
24 

15 
16 
8 
12 
16 



PRINCESS— FRONT. 

1. Draft line A ' V\ inches from the edge of the cloth. 

2. Draft line B Yt. inch from the end of the cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 
according to size of neck, on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2- 

4. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 
under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3- 

5. Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X' 

6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 

7. Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr° m line B and place 



X 



the arms eye measure down line A fr° m '' ne B and 



dot 4- 

8. Measure 
place dot 5- 

9. Draft from dot X to dot 5- 

10. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out 
beginning 6 inches from dot 5- 

1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for 
bust number and place dot (J. 

12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7- 

13. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 
8 on line A- 

1 4. Place letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 8- 

15. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 9- 

16. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 
G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 

1 7. Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 8 and place dot 10- 
18. Measure Jjj the distance of the first dart from dot 10 and place 
dot 11. 

i9- 

20. 

dot 13. 
21. 



Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12- 

Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place 



7- 



ine G and 

[ inch out 



Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to 
inch out and place dot 14- 

22. Measure straight up from the center of the 2nd dart and 
and place dot 15- 

23. Place the V 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14- 

24. Draft lines I, J and K in like manner. 

25. Draft lines L & M and N & to meet 6 inches straight down from 
the center of the darts. 

26. Measure 14 of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot 

27. Plaee letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 

28. Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18- 

29. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- 

30. Place letter A on dot and draft line P to dot 19- 

31. Place the corner of square on dot 7 the edge on dot 19 and con- 
tinue line P the length of skirt. 

32. Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20- 

33. Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

34. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 
Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 

35. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 

36. Measure 1 V 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23 

37. Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24- 

38. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6 

39. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Stretch the 
front shoulder to meet the back. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one 
inch below line G- Set dotted linei. 



PRINCESS— BACK. 



1. Draft line A '6 inches from the edge of cloth. 

2. Draft line B li inch fr° m the end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under 
dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 2- 

4. Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on 
line B from line A and place dot 3- 

5. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4- 
Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 4- 
Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5- 
Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back 

from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

10. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 



6. 

7- 
8. 

9- 



1 1. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

12. Place the % mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line F 
to dot 7- 

13. Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule) on dot 5 the 
edge on dot ^ and extend line F the length of skirt. 

14. If fullness is desired in the skirt then measure in from dot 
5 about 5 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F. (See dotted 
lines.) 

1 5. Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9- 

1 6. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

17. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and 
draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure 
and place dot 1 \. 



7 6 





down 

19. 

20. 
dot 6- 

21. 
ches u 

22. 

2 3- 
24- 
line G 

25- 



3. 

back— 

dot 2- 
4- 

5- 



Measure the distance given in the table — to locate dot 12 — straight 
from dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12- 

Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 
Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from 

Place the 10 inch mark on dot 6 and draft to meet line K 6 in- 

P- 

Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14. 

Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and draft 
the length of skirt. 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 5 and draft line H. 

SIDE BODY. 

Use the edge of cloth for line G- 
Draft line H Yz inch from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 to line D — in the 
-and then measure that distance down line G from line H an d place 



Draft line D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2- 
Measure H inches out line D from dot 2 an d place dot 3- 
Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side 
body from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

7. Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 an d place dot 5- 

8. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then 
measure that distance from dot 3 to line B and place dot 6- 

9. Place letter V on dot 6 the edge of curve on line D one inch out 
from dot 3 and draft line A to letter J on the curve. 

10. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A- 
1 1 . Measure one inch out from 6 and place dot 7- 
I 2. Draft line B from dot 5 to dot 7- 

13. Measure 1 )/ 2 inches down line B fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8- 

1 4. Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8- 
1 5. Measure y 2 inch out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 9- 

16. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10- 

17. Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 10- 

18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend 
line E the length of skirt. 

19. Measure 1 y 2 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 11. 

20. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12- 

21. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft 
line F the length of skirt. 

22. Hold the end of tape line on dot \\ and draft line J. 

UNDER ARM FORM— BACK. 

1 . Use the edge of cloth for line G- 

2. Draft line H V? inch from the end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and 
then measure that distance down line G fr° m line H and place dot X. 

4. Draft line D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot X- 

5. Measure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line D- 

6. Measure on line D % inch more than the table gives for the width 
of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

7. Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H- 

8. Measure 3<£ inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

9. Measure y inch more than the table gives for the width of under 
arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6. 

10. Draft line A from dot 2 to dot 5. 

1 I. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure 
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- 

1 2. Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 7- 

13. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- 
Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- 
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- 
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- 
Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the 
edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt. 

18. Measure 1 y 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10- 

19. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

20. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. 

21. Place the corner of square on dot 10 the edge on dot \\ and con- 
tinue line F the length of skirt. 

2 2. Hold the end of tape line on line D half way between dots 2 and 
3 and draft line J. 



H- 
'5- 
16. 

i7- 






MEASURE. 




Bust . 




36 


Waist . 




24 


Front . 




'5 


Back . 




16 


Under Arm 




8 


Neck 




12 


Arm's Eye 




16 



For low cut corset the point of the darts should meet one 
inch below line G. See diagram. 



PRINCESS— FRONT. 

1. Draft line A ' Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. 

2. Draft line B /^ mcn from the end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 
under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m l me B and place dot 2. 

4. Measure the distance given in the neck table (on the curve) under 
dot 3 on l' ne B and place dot 3- 

5. Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X- 

6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3- 

7. Measure J4 of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m li ne B and 
place dot 4- 

8. Measure 3^ of the arm's eye measure on line A from line Band place dot 5 

9. Draft from dot X to dot 4- 

10. Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 4- 

1 1 . Measure out line D from dot 5 % inch less than the table gives for 
Bust number and place dot 6. 

12. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot g 
and place dot 7- 

13. Measure ^ of the width of both darts straight in from dot 7 and, 
place dot 0- 

14. Place letter A on dot and draft line E to dot 6- 

1 5. Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 
8 on line A- 

16. Place letter A (curve up) on dot and draft line p to dot 8- 

17. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 ar >d place dot 9- 

18. Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot g and draft 
line G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 5- 

19. Measure J<j inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on 
line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- 

20. Measure y' 2 the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot H. 

21. Measure one inch from dot H and place dot 12- 

22. Measure l / 2 ofthe width ofthe second dot from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

23. Measure straight up from the center of the first dart to line 6 and 
place dot 14. 

24. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line G and 
place dot 15- 

2;. Place the y' 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H. 

26. Draft lines I, J and K m 'ike manner. 

27. Draft lines L.M&N \yi inches straight down from dots 10, I l,& 12. 

28. Measure 6 inches straight down from the center ofthe second dart 
and place dot 16. 

29. Draft line from dot 13 to dot 16. 

30. Continue line straight down from dot 16. 

31. Place the corner of square on the center ofthe 2nd dart and measure 
straight in to line A and plaee dot 17. 

32. Measure one inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18- 
l^. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- 

34. Place letter A on dot and draft line P to dot 19- 

35. Place the corner on square on dot 7 the edge on dot 19 and continue 
line P the length of skirt. 

36. Measure 6^ inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20- 

37. Measure 1 3/£ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

38. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 
Q U inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22- 

39. Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 
Measure 1 yi inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- 
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and P'ace dot 24- 
Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- 
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- 

FRONT PANEL. 

Use the fold of Cloth for line A. 

Draft line B % inch from the end of cloth. 

3. Measure the distance between dots 8 and 17 down line A from line B 
and place dot 2. 

4. Measure the space between dots 8 & 10 and I I & 12 and add y^ 
inch and then measure that distance on line B from line A and place dot 3. 

5. Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. 

6. Measure y{ inch more than the combined distance between dots 8 
& 10 and II & 12 on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

7. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. 

8. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

9. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft line 
D yi inch more than the length of skirt. 

10. Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 6. 

1 1 . Measure the length of skirt down from dot 2 on line A and draft line 
F to line D. 



40. 
41. 

42. 
43- 

1. 

2. 




Bust 

Waist . 
Front 
Back . 
Under arm 
Neck 
Arm's Eye 



MEASURE. 



3° 

?4 

>5 
16 
8 
12 
16 



VIENNA WAIST. 

Draft line A I '2 ' ncn fr°m the edge of goods. 

Draft line B > 2 inches from the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc 
2 from line B on line A and place dot 2- 

Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from 
line A and place dot 3- 

Measure down line A * rom line B 3 /i of arm's eye measure and place dot 4 

Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5- 

Place the corner ot square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out, beginning 6 
inches from dot 5- 

Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for bust num- 
ber and place dot 6- 

Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- 

Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8- 

Place letter H on dot 8 an d draft line P to dot 7- 

Measure y£ inch out from dot 2 an d place new dot 2- 

Measure « inch in from dot 5 and place new dot 5- 

Measure 'j the distance of the first dart out from dot 8 an d place new dot 8- 

Place letter H on n ew dot 2 an d draft to new dot 5- 

Place letter (J on new dot 5 an d draft to dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to new dot 8- 

Place letter H on new dot 8 an d draft to meet line A 5 inches below dot 8- 

Measure in from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l / 2 the width of the 
first dart and place new dot 7- 

Measure I 1 j inches straight down from 6 and place dot 9- 

Draft line E fr° m dot 6 to 9- 

Place letter A on new dot 7 an d draft to dot 9- 

Measure 6 l/ 2 inches out line B from dot 3 an d place dot 20- 

Measure 1 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21- 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the pro- 
portionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. 

Measure 1 ' 2 inches up line R from line D an d place dot 23- 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24- 

Place letter D on dot 24 an d draft line S to meet line B 1 inch in from dot 

s 

Place letter K ° n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q. 

Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25- 
' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26- 

Measure \£ inch out line B fr° m line A and place dot 27- 

Place the corner of square on dot 27, tne edge on dot 26 ar| d draft line f? out 
about 20 inches. 

Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T. 

Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28- 

Place the corner of square on dot 28, the edge on line T and draft line \J out 
10 inches. 

Measure out line U from dot 28 ' inch less than the combined width of cen- 
ter-back side body and under arm forms and place dot 29- 

Place the corner of square on dot 22, the long arm parallel with line X and 
place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure. 



Arm's eye measure 


14 15 


16 17 


18 19 


20 21 


Dot 30 


2 


3H 


1% 


3H 



Place the corner of square on dot 30 the long arm parallel with line T and 
measure out from dot 30 — % mch more than the width of under arm form and 
place dot 32- 

Place the corner of square on dot 29, the edge on dot 32 and measure up the 
distance between dots 6 and new 7 (in the front drafting) and place dot 33- 

Place letter A on dot 29 an d draft line V to dot 33- 

Place the X point of curve on dot Jj an J draft line }/f to the end of line Q. 

Bone the lining before sdtching to the outside material. 

Darts can be made if desired, but they must be made yi inch less on each 
dart than the table calls for and omit making new dot 7- 



SEAMLESS WAIST. 




Fifty ($50 00) dollars Rewa.d will be 
paid for the conviction of any one infring- 
ing on any of onr copyrights. 





MEASURE 




Bust 




34 


Waist . 




22 


Front 




14 


Back . 




16 


Under Arm 




8 


Neck 




ii 


Arm's Eye 




•5 



Use the fold of goods for the center of back. 

Draft line B io inches from the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 2 (on the curve) 
from line B on line A a °d place dot 2- 

Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 ' on the curve) 
on line B h"om line A an d place dot 3- 

Draft line C fi' om dot 2 t0 dot 3- 

Measure 7 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 4- 

Measure the length of back down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 

5 

Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 5- 

Measure 4 inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 6- 

Measure 6 ) ■', inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 7- 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Place letter A on dot 3» the edge °' curve on dot 8 and draft line E 'he 

proportionate length ot shoulder. 

Measure ; inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 10- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot 10 and measure from dot 

6 — y 2 inch more than j£ of bust measure and place dot H. 
Draft line F from dot 10 to dot H- 
Place the corner of square on dot H, the short arm on line F and draft line 

G up i/J of the arm's eye measure. 

Place the edge of square on line (J and draft line H in from the end of line 

6. 

Measure down line G fr° m ''ne H the distance given in table for front neck 
under dot 2 and place dot 12- 

Measure 3/g inch in from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Measure in on line H from line G % inch more than the neck table gives 
under dot 3 and place dot 14- 

Place letter B on dot 13 and draft line I to dot 14- 

Place the corner of square on dot 12 and extend line G down one inch more 
than the length of front and place dot 15- 

Place the corner of square on the end of line D, the edge on dot 15 and 
measure 4 inches less than l / 2 of waist measure and place dot 16- 

Place letter F on the end of line D and draft line J to dot 16. 

Place letter R on dot H and draft line K to dot 16 

Draft line L fr° m dot H to dot 13. 

Measure b}A inches in from dot 14 on line H an d pl a ce dot 17- 

Measure 1 3 + inches down from dot 17 and place dot 18- 

Place letter A °n dot 14, the edge of curve on dot 18 and draft line M the 
proportionate length ot shoulder. 

Draft line N parallel with line G from the end of line M to line F. 

Measure up line N • % inches from line F an d place dot 20- 

Measure 1 inch out from dot 20 an d place dot 21- 

Place dot 22 on line F l A the distance between dot 10 and line N. 

Place letter B on dot 21 a nd draft line to dot 22- 

Place letter T on dot 21 and extend line to the end of line ffl. 

Place the point of curve on dot 22 and draft line P to the end ot line E. 

Place the edge of square even with line E an d measure in from dot 3 the 
distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 an d place dot 23- 

Place the corner of square on dot 23, the edge on line E a nd draft line Q 1 o 
inches from dot 23- 

Measure on line Q from dot 23 the distance in the front neck table under dot 
2 and place dot 24- 

Place letter B on dot 24 a nd draft line R to dot 3- 

Place letter G on the end of line E and draft line U to the end of line Q. 



0) 


"B 


3 






/~c~~ 




H/ 






IL^ 




JO 


*1 




/S 


J/2 




mS 




t'J 


x\ 








S T> 








r 




MEASURE. 

8 Years. 

Bust 28 

Waist 24 

Front 9 y 2 

Back 11^ 

Under Arm 51/ 

Shoulder 4 

Neck 10 

Arm's Eye 1 3 

In measuring for children, tie a string around the waist and 
push down to the point of hips and use as a guide for waist-line 

When drafting for children, place line A 1 1-2 inches from 
the edge of goods and omit dot 5. Also draft the shoulder 1-2 
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 



BERLIN WAIST. 

Draft lines A and B Y\ mcn from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from 
line B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 




*A 




H 


H 


X 




H 




Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


13 


H 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


u 


n 


1 


iyi 


'# 


in 


**/* 


15/8 


1% 


I# 


2 


2'8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out nne B from 
lir: A and place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 

Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure the distance given in table for centre-back, side-body and under 
arm from dot 5 and place dot 8. 

Draft line E. beginning 4 inches below line B and draft to dot 5- 

Measure 6 vX inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3, the e dge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the 
proportionate length of Moulder and place dot \\. 

Measure M the arm's eye straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. 

Measure 3^ inch less than the width of under arm straight out from dot 12 
and place dot 13- 

Place the corner of square on dot 8, the edge on dot 13 and measure up 
from dot 8 the length of under arm and place dot 14. 

Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot H. 

Place letter M on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 8- 

When drafting for children, draft line A ' Y? inches from the edge of goods 
and omit dot 5- Draft the shoulder y^ inch less than the proportionate 
shoulder measure. 

CHILDREN'S FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A. 
Draft line B yi. mcn fr om the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down line A from 
line B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


nti 


2 


**■ 


2*4 


2l{ 


3 


3^ 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


1 2 


13 


Dot 3 


1*4 


i|4 


2 


2}i 


«# 


234 


^ 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 out line B from 

line A and place dot 3- 

Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 3/ of arm's eye down line A from line B and place dot 4- 

Measure y 2 of arm's eye down line A fr° m line B and place dot 5- 

Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5- 

Measure the distance of bust number out line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Measure the length of front down line A from dot 2 an d place dot 8- 

Draft line F from dot ^ to dot 8. 

Measure outline F from dot 8. the distance given in the table for front waist 

number and place dot X- 

Draft line E from dot 6 to dot X- 

Measure ij4 inches on line E from dot 6 and place dot 9- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4> the edge on dot 9 and draft line 6 ou t 

3 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 

Measure z x A inches on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- 





Measure the width of dart (as given in the table) from dot 10 and place 
dot |1. 

Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on line Q. 

Draft lines H and I the same as other darts. 
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 
Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20- 
Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano " place dot 21. 
Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q j4 
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D- 
Measure i inch up line R from line D an d place dot 23. 
Measure i inch straight in from dot 23 aI >d place dot 24. 
Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 
Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. 

SAILOR BLOUSE 
For Ladies or Children. 

FRONT. 

Draft a plain front and add 4 inches to the waist line from dot ^ and draft 
line E to dot 6. 

Omit darts and cut 6 inches below the waist line. 

BACK. 

Draft the Berlin back and add 2 ]4 inches to the waist line from dot 8 and 
draft line H to dot 14- Cut 6 inches below the waist line. 

FOR VERY FULL FORM. 

This diagram shows the changes necessary for a very full bust and narrow 
back. 

The dotted lines show the ordinary drafting, the heavy lines showing the 
changes 

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 



Bust 

Waist 

Front 

Back - . - 

Under Arm 

Height of Shoulder 

Width of Back 

Neck 

Arm's Eye 



42 
z 5 
17 
17 
9 

6 
'5 

'9 



For a regular form the width of the back should be j/(, of the bust measure. 
This width of back is 6 inches, indicating that the back is for a 36 bust meas- 
ure. Take a 36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back. 
Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42 
(the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. Take 2 /i of 6, which 
would be 4, and add to the regular measure — 42— -which would make 46. 
Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. 
Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 ° n line A and 1 inch straight out and 
place new dot 2. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^£ 
inches above dot 3- [See diagram.] Place dot X Y inch straight in from 
dot 4. Plate letter H on dot X and draft to new dot 2. Place the 5 inch 
mark on dot X an d continue the curved line x / 2 inch out from dot 8, meeting 
line A about 5 inches down. [See diagram.] Take alj^ inch dart in the 
lining at dot 5. [See diagram.] In locating the darts measure from the 
curved line in, locating dot 10. Draft the darts so that the point meets one 
inch above line G. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the 
shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder 
measure and baste a ^ inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the 
bastings after the shoulder is stitched. [See diagram.] Also baste a I 
inch dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching. 




B. 



<ot« 



m\ 



oo 



SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Shoulder to Elbow 

Elbow to Wrist 

Around Arm below Shoulder . 
Around Arm below Elbow . . . 
Around Hand 



i + 

10 

I I 

10 

8 



inch more than \i the measure around the arm below the 



FRENCH SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B V\ inch from the end and edge of goods. 

Measure l / 2 the hand measure out line B from line A and place dot 2. 

Measure I y, inches on line A from line B and place dot 3- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C °ut 
2 T ^ inches less than the hand measure. 

Measure y, inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro'" 1 
line B and place dot 4. 

Measure I J^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure 2 inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow- 
straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Place letter Q, on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3. 

Measure up line A 4's inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow 
from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. 

Measure 5 inches from dot 7 on li ne A and place dot 8- 

Draft line F straight out from dot 8- 

Measure out line F fr° m dot 8 • inch less than > _, the measure around the 
arm below the shoulder and place dot 9- 

Measure 
shoulder on line F from dot 9 and place dot 10 

Measure I inch less than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on 
line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot \\. 

Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot 12. 

Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13. 

Place the point of curve on line F 1 inch in from dot 9 and draft line Q to 
dot 7- 

Place the X point of curve on line F • inch out from dot 9 and draft line H 
to dot 12. 

Place letter F on dot 12 and draft line \ to dot 13. 

Draft line J from dot 13 extending 2 ! 2 inches below dot 6. 

Measure l 2 inch straight in from the end of line J and place dot 14. 

Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line K t0 dot 14 

Place letter R on dot 14 and continue line K t0 [ he end of line (J- 

Allow seams on lines D, E, J and R\ Cut on lines C, 6, H and I. 

UNDER PART. 

Draft lines A and B l A inch from the edge and end of cloth. 

Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2- 

Measure 1 y inches on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 3- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C ' 2 

inch more than ^i of hand measure from dot 3- 

Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from 

line B and place dot 4- 

Measure I 1 - 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure y 2 inch more than y the measure around the arm below the elbow 

straight from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3- 

Measure \ l {, inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \ 

on line A and place dot 7- 

Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- 

Measure I \ 2 inches on line A h" om dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Measure y inch more than y the measure around the arm below the shoulder 

out from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

"lace letter K ° n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9- 





Draft line G fr° m dot 9 to dot 6- 

Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line H to the end ot line (J- 

Allow seams on lines D, E, G and H Cut on lines C and f. 

This sleeve is gathered at the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. Sti 
Jotted lines). Lay the sleeve smooth on the table, told the top over aoout 3 
inches from the elbow up and from the hand up to the elbow about 2 inches. 
Now bring the fullness together at the elbow, taking up about 2 inches in space 
and run in a gathering thread. See that dots 5 come together and baste up and 
down from dot 5- 

THE PRATT SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B H inch from the ed g e and end of cloth ' 
Measure out line B from line A ',■ the hand measure and place dot 2. 



inches and place dot 3. 
inch more than the measure from elbow to 



SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Shoulder to Elbow l * 

Elbo(V to Wrist 10 

Around Arm below Shoulder ' ' 

Around Arm below Elbow ' ° 

Around Hand - 



Measure up line A from line B ' } 
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- 

Measure up line A from line B '.' 
u rist and place dot 4- 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure straight out from dot 5 1 % inches more than > 3 ot the measure 
around the arm below the elbow and place dot 6- 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3. 

Measure up line A from dot 4— 4 1 -' inches less than the measure ""° m sh ° U ' der 
to elbow and place dot 7. 

Place etter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. 

Measure up line A from dot 7—5 % inches and P lace dot 8 - 

Draft line F straight out from dot 8. , 

Measure out line F from dot 8 > inch less than >, the measure around arm 
below shoulder and place dot 9. , , 

Measure out line F from dot 8 I % inches less than the measure around arm 

below shoulder and place dot 10. .«.,-., in 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\ 
Place the point of the curve on line F * inches in from dot 9 and draft line 

G Sate the X point of the curve on line F * inches out from dot 9 and draft 

lineH to dot 11. . \ ■ 

Place letter H on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b. 
Place letter A on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 2 

Allow for seams on lines D, E, J and K Cut on lines C, G and fl 

UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of cloth 
Measure out line B from line A V2 the hand measure and place dot 2. 
Measure up line A from line B • % inches and place dot 3. 
Place the corner of the square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2 and draft line C 
1 , inch less than J . of hand measure from dot 3. . 

"Measure up line A from line B % inch more than the measure from elbow to 

wrist and place dot 4. , , , . , „ _ 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch less than % the measure around arm 
below elbow and place dot 6. 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3 

Measure up line A from dot 4-4 % inches less than the measure from shoulder 
to elbow and place dot 7. 

Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. 

Measure up line A from dot 7 ^2 inches and place dot 8- 

Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch less than V, the measure around urn 
below shoulder and place dot 9. 

Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot g. 

Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line G '° d °t 9. 

Place letter A on line Q , inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of 

"aL for seams on lines D) E, G and H - Cut on lines C and F. 

For Cloak or Coat.-Add ■ inch to the first and second measure, .round arm 
una y 2 inch to the hand measure. 



is ca 




«N 


CO 






-$ pr- 


--^^ "W 




ip 


G---^ 


m 


Sm ■& 






/ * 






/ u 






•V 






/tu 

a/S 

M 






O 


< 


/ w 


<j>\ 




/* 


<y/ y 




/-H 


j 


i 




1 


$ 


£ 




/ ^ 


H 


■i 




M 


* 


i 




notI^ 


ir> 




* 




S 


i 




\ 


> \ 






a) \ 




i f 


--^\ 










0\ < 


J i\ 




1 * 






1 w 


-v\ 




1 <y 


* 




1 ^ 




r^ 


1 ° • 


<T 




\* / 






Ov 






09 



SLEEVE NO, 5- 

Draft .ines A and B 3 /i ' ncn fr° m tne e dg e aI) d e "d °^ c ' otri - 

Measure out line B from line A /^ the hand measure and place dot 2- 

Measure up line A fr° m line B • }4 inches and place dot 3- 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- 

Measure up line A from line B j4 mc h more than the measure from elbow 
to wrist and place dot 4- 

Measure l y 2 inches straight out from dot 4 an d place dot 5- 

Measure 4 inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow 
from dot 5 an d place dot (J. 

Place letter JH on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3- 

Measure 4 y 2 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line 
A from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- 

Measure 5 y 2 inches up line A from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Draft line F straight out from dot 8- 

Measure out line F from dot 8 J^ the measure around arm below shoulder 
and place dot 9- 

Measure 1 y 2 inches less than the measure around the arm below the shoulder 
on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Place letter on line F 1 inch in from dot 9 and draft line G to dot 7- 

Place letter X ° n line F ' inch out from dot 9 and draft line H to dot \\. 

Place letter Yf on dot 8 and draft line J to dot H. 

Place the y> mark on dot 6 and draft line R t0 dot 2- 

Allow for seams on lines D> E> J and R. Cut on lines (J. 6 and H- 

UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 

Measure out line B from line A yd the hand measure and place dot 2- 

Measure up line A from line B ' ^2 inches and place dot 3- 

Place the corner of the square on dot 3> the edge on dot 2 and draft line C 

y% inch less than y 2 of hand measure from dot 3- 

Measure up line A from line B y inch more than the measure from elbow to 

wrist and place dot 4- 

Measure I y 2 inches siraight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure y 2 the measure around the arm below the elbow straight out from 

dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Place letter JJ on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3- 

Measure 4 y inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow up line A 

from dot 4 and place dot 7- 

Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- 

Measure 2 y 2 inches up line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Measure y 2 inch less than y 2 the measure around the arm below the shoulder 

out from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Place letter K on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9- 

Place letter yjf on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 9- 

Place letter A °n line G • inch above dot 6 and draft line H to the end of 

line C- 

Allow for seams on lines D. E> G and H- Cut on lines C and F- 

For Cloak or Coat. — Add 1 inch to the first and second measures around arm 

and y 2 inch to the hand measure. 



SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Shoulder to Elbow- 14 

Elbcv to Wrist 10 

Around Arm below Shoulder 11 

Around Arm below Elbow 10 

Around Hand 8 




MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS. 

Shoulder to Elbow • - 9% 

Elbow to Wrist 7 J4 

Around Arm below Shoulder 8 y 2 

Around Arm below Elbow - - 8 

Around Hand 7 



CHILD'S SLEEVE— TOP. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of cloth 

Measure % inch more than % the hand measure on l.ne B horn line A and 

Pla Me d asureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 (according to length of 
sleeve) on line A fr° m line B and place dot 3. 

TABLE. 



Length of Sleeve 



Dot 3 
Dot 5 



Dot? 

DoTl2~ 



13-14 



,5-16 



*% 



■ 3 4 



1' 



17-n 



lU 



VA 



*X 



19-20 



»# 



■ # 



Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. 

Measure 1 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A ^ 

line R and place dot 4- ,. 1 u r 

Measure the distance given in the table under dot 5 (according to length ot 

sleeve ) straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. ■ 

Measure \ inches more than * the measure around the arm below the elbow 

straight from dot 5 and P ,ace dot 6- 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3. 

Measure the distance from shoulder to elbow (Jess the distance given m the 
table under dot 7) on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 5. 

Measure 1 inch more than the table gives tor dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and 

place dot 9. 

Draft line F straight out from dot 9. c u„,,u Pr 

Measure . % inches more than ]/ 2 the measure around the arm belou shoulder 

" KIT? VZL^lrt^t arm below the shoulder on line F from 
^ Measure £l£i *- » *• ■**> — * 12 straight down from dot 
1 1« W^of the curve on line F . inch in from dot 10 and draft line 

G to dot 8- _ , <n 

Place letter T on dot 10 and draft line H to dot \i. 

Draft line I from dot 12 to dot 6. 

Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line J to dot 2. 

Allow seams on lines D, E, I and J. Cut on lines C, G and H. 

UNDER PART. 

Draft lines A and B V? inch from edge and end of goods. 

Measure % inch more than «4 the measure around the hand on line B horn 

line A and place dot 1. 

TABLE. . 



Length of Sleeve 

Dot 2 



Dot 4 



Dot 6 



13 14 



5 16 



i)<6 



^ H 



*% 



7 18I19 zc 



1* 



3^ 



'X 



Measure the distance given in the table under do, 2 (according to length of 
leeve) on line A from line B and place dot 2. 




SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Shoulder to Elbow 14 

Elbow to Wrist 10 

Around Arm below Shoulder - 11 

Around Arm below Elbow 10 

Around Hand 8 



Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 1 and draft line Q y 2 
inch less than l / 2 the hand measure. 

Measure ^ inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A f rom 
line B an d place dot 3. 

Measure the distance given in the table under dot 4 (according to length of 
sleeve) straight from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Measure y, the measure around the arm below the elbow straight out from 
dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Place letter JJ on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2. 

Measure the distance from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in the 
table under dot 6 (according to length of arm) on line A from dot 3 and place 
dot 6. 

Place letter JJ on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4- 

Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the upper part of sleeve and 
then measure that distance on line A from dot 3 and place dot 7- 

Measure y 2 the measure around the arm below shoulder straight out from dot 
7 and place dot 8. 

Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 8- 

Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 5- 

Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line H to the end of line (J- 

Allow seams on lines D. E, G and H- Cut on lines C and F. 

SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE. 

Draft line A v i inch from edge of goods. 

Draft line B straight out from line A 6 inches more than the measure 
around the arm below the shoulder. 

Place dot 2 in the centre of line B. 

Measure straight out from dot 2 — Vi inch less than yl of hand 
measure and place dot 3. 

Measure straight in from dot 2 — % inch less than ^ of hand measure 
and place dot 4. 

Measure up line A from line B l l /i inches less than the length of 
sleeve and place dot 5. 

Draft line C from dot 4 to dot 5. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 5 the same length as line B. 

Draft line E from the end of line D to dot 3- 

Measure down line C from dot 5 — 5 inches less than the measure from 
shoulder to elbow, and place dot 6- 

Measure straight out from dot 6 one inch and place dot 7- 

Measure down line E from the end of line D 5 inches less thaD the 
measure from shoulder to elbow and place dot 8. 

Measure straight in from dot 8 one inch and place dot 9. 

Place letter R on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 5. 

Place letter U on dot 7 and extend line F to dot 4. 

Reverse the curve and draft line G from the end of line D to dots 
9 and 3. ' 

Measure in from the end of line D l i of the measure around the arm 
below shoulder and place dot 10. 

Measure straight up from dot 10 — }{ the measure around arm below 
shoulder and place dot H. 

Place letter T on the end of line D and draft line H to dot 11. 

Measuie out line D from dot 5— % inch more than y& the distance 
between dots 5 and 10 and place dot 12. 

Hold end of tape line on dot 12 and draft a curved line from dot 11 
to dot 5. 



CLOAK NO. i 




MEASURE. 

Bust. 36 

Waist 24 

Front 14 

Back . 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye 16 



Draft line A 6}4 inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B I Vz 

inches from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck 

table unde- dot 2 on line A from line B and piace dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


7 


8 


2 

9 

2 3, 


IO 

2-8 


2y 2 
1 1 

3 


1 2 

3' 8 


3 
'3 

3*r 


3X 
H 

3-'« 


3'.' 

3^ 


3 3 '4 
16 

35/a 


4 

'7 
3 3 4 


4'4 


Neck Size 


18 


Dot 3 


z Yi 


2^8 


3 7/ 8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to 

dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 1 inch less than l/ x of the arm's 

eye on line A from line B and place dot 4- Measure ]/ 2 the arm's eye on 

line A from line B and place dot 5- Place the corner of square on dot 5 

and draft line D straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure I 

inch more than the bust number on line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- 
Measure y. z inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and 
place dot 7- Measure l / 2 inch on line D from dot 6 and place dot X- 

Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- P'ace 

letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7- Measure ' 3 the distance of 

both darts in from dot 7 and place dot 9- Measure % the distance on 

line p between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10- Measure y§ the distance 

of both darts in from dot 10 and place dot H. Measure 1 :■, the distance 

of both darts out from dot 10 and place dot 12- Place the corner of 

square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6 and draft line G out 3 inches beginning 3 
inches from dot 4- Measure straight up from dot 10 and place dot 14 on 

line G- Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot H and draft line H to dot 14- 

Reverse the curve and draft line J. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 5 inches 

below dot 10. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and 

measure up from dot 9 the length on under arm and place new dot 6. 
Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X- Place letter A on new 

dot 6 and draft to meet line E z % inches below line D. Measure 3 

inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 inches straight 

down from dot 16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft 

line M to dot 17- Measure 6yi inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 

20- Measure z]/ 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3| inch 
less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line 

R straight from dot 22 to line D. Measure 1 j4 inches up line R from 

line D and place dot 23. Measure I inch straight in from dot 23 and 

place dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and 

draft line S to new dot 6. Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S 

to dot. 22- Measure ■_, inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- 

Draft from dot 25 to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2- Measure ' 2 

inch on line F from dot 8 and place dot 27- Place letter S on line A I % 

inches below dot 4 and draft line U to dot 27- Place letter S on dot 27 

and extend line \J to meet line A 8 inches below dot 8- Measure 1 y 2 

inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 28. Measure [^ inches 

straight in from dot 5 and place dot 29- Measure 2 inches straight 

in from dot 8 and place dot 30- Measure 1 3/£ inches in from the junc- 

tion of lines A and U and place dot 31- Place letter S on dot 28 and 

draft line V to dot 29- Place letter S on dot 29 and continue line V to 

dot 30- Place letter Z on dot 30 and draft to dot 31- Measure 

4^ inches straight in from dot 28 and place dot 32- Draft line W from 

dot 28 to dot 32- Measure 4 '4 inches straight in from dot 29 and place 

dot 33- Measure 2^( inches straight in from dot 30 and place dot 34- 

Measure 3 inches straight in from dot 31 and place dot 35- Draft line X 

from dot 32 to dot 33. Place letter jj on dot 34 and draft to dot 33. 

Place letter S on dot 34 and draft to dot 35- Draft line Y from dot 31 

to dot 35- 





CLOAK NO. 2. 

Draft line A 3 inches from the edge of goods. Draft line B ' x /l inches 

from the end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under 

dot 2 on l' n e A fr° m line B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


*X 


8 


2 


*x 


2 y 2 
1 1 


2 34 


3 


3% 
'4 


3^ 


3?4 


4 


4^" 


Neck Size 


7 


9 


IO 


12 


■3 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


*x 


iy% 


2}i 


3 


3 l A 


3% 


3^8 


3>i 


3^ 


3?4 


3^8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line 
A and place dot 3- Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m 

line B and place dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft 

line B straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5. Measure 1 inch more 

than the bust number on line B fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure Ja 

inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. 
Measure y? inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of 

front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- Place letter H on dot 8 and 

draft line p to dot 7. Measure J4 inch less than the width of the first 

dart in from dot 7 on line F *nd place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 

and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge 

on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm and place new dot 6. 
Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line B. 
Measure 2ji inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measure 5 

inches straight down dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9 

and draft line M to dot 17. Measure / inch out from dot 2 and place 

dot 25. Measure / inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft 

lines T and U t0 meet line A 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of 

curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 ( use the round edge of curve). 
Measure 6j4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. Measure 

7.V2, inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A 

on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3/£ inch less than the 
proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22. Draft line R straight 

down from dot 22 to line B. Measure 1 1 /> inches up line R from line 

B and place dot 23. Measure I inch straight in from dot 23 and place 

dot 24. Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line B and draft 

line S to new dot 6. Place lettei K ° n dot 24 and extend line S to dot 

22. Draft line W from dot 26 to the edge of goods. 



CLOAK NO 3. 



Draft line A \Yz inches from the edge of cloth. Draft line B one 

inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table 
under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2- 



NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


*% 


iU 


2 


2% 


*y> 


2 3/ 


3 


3% 


3^ 


3Va 


4 


4X 


Neck size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


13 


M 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


*# 


*tt 


2 3/ 


2% 


3 


3# 


3% 


3 J a 


3% 


3^8 


3* 


3 7 « 



Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B 
from line A and place dot 3- Measure one inch less than 3^ of the 

arm's eye measure down line A from line Band place dot 4- Measure 

}4 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5- 
Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out, be- 
ginning 7 inches from dot 5- Measure one inch more than the table 
gives for bust number on line B from line A and place dot 6- 



Up 


B 


3 




27 


2 
2 i 




2& 


7 Vn 

2/ V 


R 


s] 




/ \ 


23 


, y24 








-^D 






5 


\ 6 


\ ^iH- 




4 


\ '/ V 












A 


XJLZ -h— ~E_ 










^— —Jig_ 




* 


A 1 / 




3 


fl7 











No. 4. 



MEASURE. 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Front 14 

Back 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck _ 1 z 

Arm's Eye 16 



Measure J^ inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 
6 and place dot 7. Measure yi inch out from dot 6 and place dot 

X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7- Measure % inch 

less than the first dart in fiom dot 7 and place dot 9. Place letter A 

on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X- Place the short arm of square 

on dot 9, the edge on dot 6, and measure up the length of under arm and 
place new dot 6- Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet 

line E 3 inches below line D- Measure one inch down line E from 

line D and place dot 10- Place the corner of square on dot 4, he 

edge on dot 10 and draft line G out 3 inches, beginning 3 inches from 
dot 4- Measure on line G Yz the distance between dots 4 and 10, 

and place dot H. Place the corner of square on dot H, the short 

arm even with line G and place dot 12 on line F at edge of square. 
Measure j£ of the first dart each side of dot 12 and place dots 13 and 
14- Place the 2-inch mark (on the curve) on dot 13 and draft line 

H to clot 11. Reverse the curve and draft line I. Place the 

short arm of square on line G, the edge on dot 13 and draft line J. 
Draft line K in like manner. Measure 2 inches straight out from 

dot 9 and place dot 16- Measure ; inches straight down from dot 

16 and place dot 17- Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to 

dot 17- Measure 6^ inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 

20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 

21- Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft 

line Q 3^ -inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place 
dot 22- Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line 

D- Measure \)i inch up line R from line D and place dot 23- 

Measure one inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- Place 

letter C on dot 24, the edge of the curve on line D and draft line S to 
new dot 6- Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22 

Measure y inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- Measure % 

inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- Draft lines I and U to meet 

line A 4 inches down from dot 2- Place the point of curve on dot 

25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round edge). Measure 2 

inches in on line B from line A and place dot 27- Draft line V from 

dot 26 to dot 27- Place letter P on d it 27 and draft line W to 

meet the edge of goods 7 inches below line B- 



CLOAK NO. 4. 

Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B 1 '-j inches from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 
B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


<# 


* 3 A 


2 


»tf 


1% 


234 


3 


1% 


1% 


3H 


4 


4 '4 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


I 2 


l 3 


H 


'5 


16 


'7 


18 


Dot 3 


2% 


2? 8 


234 


2j4 


3 


3 l A 


1% 


iV& 


3% 


3# 


3% 


3'A 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3. 

Measure 1 inch less than 3/£ of the arm's eye measure down line A from line 
B and place dot 4. 

Measure y, the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5. 

Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7 
inches from dot 5. 




No. 5. 



Measure I inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on 
line D from dot 5 and place dot 9. 

Measure \ 2 inch l ess than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7. 

Measure V 2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. 

Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Place letter H °n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. 

Measure '4 inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line 
p and place dot 9. 

Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. 

Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the 
length of under arm measure and place new dot 6. 

Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D. 

Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X an d draft line Q out 
3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4. 

Measure I- 10 of the waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10. 

Add \- 2 ' inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from 
dot 10 and place dot H. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y 2 
inch, then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 

Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. 

Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart. 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. 

Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17. 

Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17. 

Measure Jj£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. 

Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. 

Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2. 

Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round 
edge). 

Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. 

Measure 2 y 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 

Place letter A ° n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q -'4 inch 
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22. 

Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to l' ne D. 

Measure 1 V 2 inches up line R from line D and place dot 23. 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 

Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to dot 

6. 

Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22. 
Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27. 
Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27. 

Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line }jf to meet the edge of goods 7 inches 
down. 



CLOAK NO. 5. 



Draft line A 3 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B ' l /2 inches from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 ° n line A and place 
dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


*% 


i% 


*\*x 


2 14 


*H 


3 


1% 


3^ 


3H 


4 


\% 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 | lo 


1 I 


1 2 


'3 


H 


•5 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


2j4 


*H 


2ji 2 7, 8 


3 


3*A 


3 U' 


3# 


VA 


3H 


*H 


3H 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 ° n line B from line 
A and place dot 3. 

Meaure r, inch less than -* 4 of the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m line B 
aivj place dot 4. 



REINACH'S 



LIST OF 



IMPORTED JOURNALS 



FOR DRESSMAKING 



Price per Price per 
Year 6 months 



LA MODK ARTISTIQUE 

With Albums -IS- 00 2 4- 00 

The same without Albums 20.00 12.00 

LE LUXE 

WIENER CHIC 

COSTUME ELEGANT, I. 

COSTUME ELEGANT, II. 

LE GOUT PARISIEN 

CHIC PARISIEN, I. 

CHIC PARISIEN, II. 



24.00 


14.00 


12.00 


7.00 


I 2.00 


7.00 


6.00 


3-5° 

Single 
Number 


8.00 


2.50 


12.00 


7.OO 


6.00 


3-5° 



FOR LADIES TAILORING 

MODEZEICHNER, I. 22.00 12.00 

MODEZEICHNER, II. 12.00 7.00 

FACON TAILLEUR 15.00 8.50 

SCHNITT-MODELLE 15.00 8.50 



FOR SILK WAISTS 



BLOUSEN ALBUM 



6.00 



Single 

Number 

2.00 



Measure ]4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from hne B and p' a( - e doi [), 
Place the corner of square on dot 5 aR d draft line D straight out, beginning 7 
inches from dot 5. 

Measure V, inch less than the table gives for bust number on line D fr° m dot 
5 and place dot 6. 

Measure 1 ' 2 inch less than the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7. 

Measure the length of front on line A fr° m dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Place letter H on dot 8 an d draft line F to dot 7. 

Measure r 4 inch less than the width of the first dart straight in from dot 7 
and place dot 9. 

Place letter A on dot 9 an d draft letter E to dot 6. 

Measure >_: inch down line E fr° m hne D an d place dot 10. 

r*lace the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 10 a nd draft line G out 
3 inches, beginning 3 inches from dot 4. 

Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8 an d place dot H. 

Messure ■ _. inch more than the width of the second dart from dot H and 
place dot 12. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 a °d the center of the dart and add yi 
inch and then measure that distance on line Q from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

Place the K mark on dot H and draft line H to dot 14. 

Turn the curve over and draft I from dot 12 to dot 14. 

Draft lines J and K from dots 12 and 14 to meet 12 inches below the center 
of the dart. 

Measure 6*4 inches oh line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20. 

Measure z</« inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 3^ inch 
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- 

Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 

Measure I l / 2 inches up line K from line D and place dot 23- 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and p' a ce dot 24 

Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- 

Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22 

Measure ^ inch out from dot 2 ar >d place dot 25- 

Measure yi inch in from dot 2 ar >d place dot 26- 

Place letter C on dot 25 a °d draft line C to dot 3- 

Draft lines T a nd U fr° m dots 25 and 26 to meet 4 inches below dot 2- 

Draft line F straight out from dot 7- 

Measure M inch on line D from 'dot 6 an d pluce dot 27- 

Measure % inch less than the under arm length straight down from dot 27 
and place dot 28- 

Place letter H on dot 27 a nd draft line \J to dot 28- 

Measure 2 3^ inches more than the bust number on line D from dot 5 an d 

place dot 29- 

Measure straight down from dot 29 an d p' a ce dot 30 on line f. 

Place letter H on dot 30 a "d draft line W to dot 29- 

Measure *4 inch in from dot 29 and place dot 31- 

Place the corner of square on dot 30, the edge on dot 31 and measure up the 
length of under arm and place dot 32- 

Place the letter A on dot 32 a "d draft to meet line W 3 inches down from 
dot 29 

Place the point of curve on dot 32 an d draft line X to dot 27- 

Measure 2 inches out from 30 an d place dot 33- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 33 and place dot 34- 

Place letter A on dot 30 and draft line Y to dot 34- 

Use the y 2 mark to draft lines L and M from dots 9 and 28 to meet 4 
inches down from dot 7- 

Measure 2 )A inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 35- 

Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 36- 

Place letter J on dot 35 the edge of curve on dot 36 and draft line N tc do: 
36, beginning 1 inch above letter J. 

Continue line N straight down from dot 36- 

Draft line from dot 26 to the end of line N- 



CLOAK BACK. 

Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A 
from line B and place dot 2- 

© NECK TABLE. 




MEASURE. 

Bust - 36 

Waist 2 2 

Front 14 

Back 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye 16 



Dot 2 


7 


8 


9 


3 A 


y& 


A 


X 


H 


N 


S/8 


H 


Yx 


Neck Size, 


10 


I ! 


1 2 

2 


13 

2}i 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3, 


iji 


^A 


iji 


*X 


2- : 8 


*% 


2 5/8 


*ti 



Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 on line B 

from line A and place dot 3- 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of back down line A from line B and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 

Measure \){ inches from dot 4 on line D and place dot 5- 

Measure y\ inch less than the table gives for the width of centre back 

from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Draft line E from dot 2 extending one inch below dot 5- 

Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7- 

Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7- 

Draft line G straight down from dot 7- 

Measure 6' 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9- 

Measure 3>_. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of carve on dot 10 and draft line H 

<^-inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. 
Measure 2% inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12- 
Place point of curve on dot H and draft line J to dot 12- 
Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K> extending one inch below 

dot 6- 

SIDE BODY. 

Place the long arm of square even with line A in the back, the short 

arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12- 
Measure 3^ inches on line N from dot 12 and place dot 2- 
Measure 3 1 / inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 3- 
Place letter P on dot 2 and draft line A, beginning yl inch above dot 

2 and extending one inch below dot 3- 

Measure '4 inch less than the table gives for the width of side body 

on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5- 

Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Place the point of curve on the end of line A and draft line C to 

dot 6- 

Measure ]/? inch from dot 4 on line D and place dot 7- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 
Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- 
Draft line L from the end of line A to line K in the back. 

UNDERARM FORM. 

Measure 3 inches on line B from dot 4 (in tie side body) and 

place dot 2- 

Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under 

arm from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body, and 

then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- 
Measure i}( inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place 

dot 6- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure 

up from dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7- 
Place letter Q on dot 5 aid draft line A to dot 2- 
place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3- 
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- 
Measure 1 ^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- 
Measure i}{ inches out from dot 3 and place dot 10- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot 11. 




S 2 




7 2^ *~ 




HZ 




line A 
line B 



SAILOR COLLAR. 

Draft line A i ' ncn from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B 5 inches from the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 2 on 
from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on 
from line A and place dot 3. 

Extend line A 2 inches up from line B- 

Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line A and place dot 4. 

Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B. the edge on dot 
4 and draft line C out 6}4 inches. 

Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through dot 3, extending to hue G. 

Place the edge of square even with line C and draft line E out +*4 inches 
from the end of line (J. 

Measure 3 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Draft line F 5 inches straight out from dot 5. 

Place letter F on curve, 1 l / 2 inches straight up from the end ot line F and 
draft line G from the end of line F to the end of line E. 

Place line C on the fold of goods and there will be no seam. 

This collar makes a very nice square or round yoke. 

MEDICI COLLAR. 

Draft lines A and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure ]/ 2 the neck measure on line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 4 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. 

Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 4. 

Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure ]£, of the neck measure on' line A from line B and place dot 5. 

Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6- 

Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to dot 3. 

Measure 1 ^ inches down from dot 2 on line A and place dot 7. 

Measure 3 inches straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round 

Place the X point of curve on dot 8 and continue line E to dot 4. 

COAT COLLAR. 

Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 1 inch more than }4 of neck measure on line A from line B and 

place dot 2. 

Measure 3 inches on line B from line A and place dot 3. 
Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 
Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. 
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 
Draft line D from dot 2 to dot 5. 

Measure 3 */i inches out line B from dot 3 and place dot 6 
Measure 2 % inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- 
Place letter N on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 3. 

STANDING COLLAR. 

Draft line A 1 inch more than y 2 the neck measure. 

Draft line B lH inches straight out from line A- 

Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and place dot 2. 

Draft line C 3 3 A inches straight out from the end of line A- 

Measure 2 inches out line C from line A and place dot 3. 

Draft line D from the end of line C to the end of line B 

Measure 1 inch on line D from line C and place dot 4. 

Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 4. 

Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line F to dot 2 

Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line G to the junction ot lines A and B 

These collars are drafted on the right bias of the goods. 



COAT NO. 
BACK. 



6. 




i. Draft lines A and B -'4 inch from the edges and end of cloth. 
2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A 
from line B and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


% 


Vs 


H 


10 


7 8 


I 


1 

•3 


1 

'4 

2}i 


2^ 


16 

2 5/ 8 


1 -s 

17 

2 3.4 


'X 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


II 

2 


I 2 


18 


Dot 3 


15/8 


«« 


1 Vs 


2y& 


*tf 


2% 



3. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B 
from line A and place dot 3. 

4. Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 
Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. 
Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 

7. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

8. Measure from dot 5 the distance given in the table for the width of 
center back and place dot 6. 

9. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7. 
Measure V? inch in from dot 7 and place dot 8. 
Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5. 
Draft line F from dot 5 to dot 8. 

Measure 6/ inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. 
Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 
Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 1 and draft line H 

% inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I . 

16. Measure 1 l - inches less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight 
down frpm dot I I and % inch in and place dot 12. 

17. Place the point ot curve on dot I I and draft line J to dot 12. 
Measure one inch in from dot 6 and place dot X on line D. 
Place letter G on dot 12 and draft line K to dot X. 
Place letter J on line K 6 inches above dot X and draft to dot 6. 
Draft line G straight down from dot 6. 



5- 
6. 



10. 
II. 
12. 

■3- 
•4- 
i5. 



18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 



SIDE BODY. 

1. Draft line N straight out from dot 12. 

2. Measure 3 inches out from dot 12 and place dot 2. 

3. Measure 3 inches out from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3. 

4. Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of side body 
from dot 3 and place dot 4. 

5. Measure one inch from dot 3 and place dot X. 

6. Place letter V on dot 2 the edge of curve on dot X and draft line A 
to letter Z on the curve. 

7. Place letter Z on dot 3 and draft to the end of line A. 

8. Measure one inch from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

9. Measure 2 inches less than 1^ of arm's eye straight down from dot 
5 and place dot 6. 

10. Place letter S on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 6. 
I I. Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. 

Measure I J^ inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and piace dot 9. 

Draft line E from dot 3 to dot 9. 

Measure * 2 inch out from dot 4 and place dot 10. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II. 

Place the l A mark on dot 4 and draft line F to dot II. 



1 2. 

>3- 
14. 

•5- 
16. 

i7- 




MEASURE. 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Front 75 

Back 16 

Under Arm 8 

Neck . . i z 

Arm's Eye 16 



UNDER ARM. 

1 . Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2. 

2. Measure the width of the under arm — as given in the table — from 
dot 2 and place dot 3. 

3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and 
then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

4. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

5. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and 
place dot 6. 

6. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure 
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. 

7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 

8. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. 
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. 
Measure I 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 
Place the < ■■., mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. 



9- 
10. 
1 1. 
I z. 

'3- 

14. 



1. 

2. 



Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. 

Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I I. 

Place the l / 2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I . 



FRONT. 

Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth. 

inch less than X A of neck measure on line A from line 



3. Measure 
B and place dot 2. 

4. Measure \4 inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from 
line A and place dot 3. 

5. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 
Measure 3/£ of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place 



6. 
dot 4. 

7- 

dot 5. 

8. 



Measure y 2 the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place 



Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out 
beginning 6 inches from dot 5. 

9. Measure the distance of the Bust number on line D from dot 5 and 
place dot 6. 

10. Measure the length ot under arm straight down from dot 6 and )/* 
inch in and place dot 7. 



Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. 
Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. 
Place letter A on dot 7 — curve up — and draft line F to dot 8. 
Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place 



18. 
19. 

20. 

21. 
22. 

23- 



I I. 

1 2. 

'3- 
14. 

dot 10. 

15. Measure \-i inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 
10 and place dot 1 1. 

1 6. Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then 
measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

17. Place the x / 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 
Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II. 
Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I. 
Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 
Place the V 2 mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. 
Place letter G on line C l /y inch out from dot 2 and draft to meet 

line A 5 inches above dot 8. 

24. Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2. 

2 j. Place the corner of square j£ ' nc ^ m * rorn dot 2 and draft to meet 
line A 2 inches down. 

26. Measure 6 V 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. 

27. Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. 

28. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q 
yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

29. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line Q to l'ne D. 
Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23. 
Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 
Place letter on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 
Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q. 

The Front can be finished any style desired. 

For long shoulder extend line Q x / 2 inch. See dotted lines. 



30. 
3«- 
32- 
33- 



CLOAK NO. 7— BACK. 

Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 
B and place dot 2' 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


1 


_? _? 


5/8 
IO 


S /8 
I I 

1^ 


14 

12 

2 




J/8 

»3< 


2 3/& 


n 


I 


i 


Neck Size 
Dot 3 


16 

2 / 


'7 
2^ 


18 

2 3^ 




MEASURE. 

Bust 36 

Waist. 2+ 

Front 15 

Back 16 

Under Arm _ 8 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye 16 



Measure the distance given in the Neck Table under dot 3 ° n line B from 
line A and place dot 3- 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of back down line A fr om dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 

Measure I y^ inches from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5- 

Measure the distance the table gives for the width of centre back from dot 5 
and place dot 6- 

Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and % inch in and place dot 7- 

Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7- 

Draft line G straight down from dot (J. 

Measure it 1 /, inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 9- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H the 
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot \\. 

Measure 2 l / 2 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12- 

Place point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12- 

Place letter V on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g. 

SIDE BODY. 

Place the long arm of square even with line A > n the back, the short arm on 

dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12- 

Measure 31^ inches on line N fr° m dot 12 and place dot 2- 

Measure 3 ! 2 inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 3- 

Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3- 

Measure the distance the table gives for the width of side body on line B 

from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Measure one inch on line N from dot 2 and place dot 5- 
Place letter H ° n dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5- 
Measure two inches down line B from dot 5 and place dot 6- 
Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot (J. 
Measure ^ inch from dot 4 on l' ne B and place dot 7- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 ar >d place dot 8- 
Place letter A on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- 
Measure 1 J4 inches in from dot 3 and place dot 8- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10- 
Draft line F from dot 3 to dot 9- 

UNDER=ARM FORM. 

Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 (in the side body) and place dot 2- 
Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 
2 and place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 m the side body, and then meas- 
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- 
Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5' 
Measure straight out from dot 4 the width of under arm and place dot 6- 
Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on dot 6 and measure up from 
dot 3 the length of under arm measure and place dot 7- 
Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- 
Place letter M on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3- 
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7- 
Measure 1 % inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- 
Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9- 
Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 
Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. 



B 3 







CLOAK NO. 7— FRONT. 

Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B ' 1 /t. inches from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A fr° m ' me 
B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE 



Dot 2 


7 

2>. 


I* 


2 


2K 

IO 


II 


2 ?4 


3 


3^ 
14 


3^ 
15 


33/^ 
16 


4 
17 


4X 


Neck Size 


8 

2 5/g 


9 

2 3^ 


12 


13 


18 


Dot 3 


2% 


3 


3^ 


35< 


3^ 


3^ 


35/^ 


3?4 


3 7 /s 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on une B from line 
A and place dot 3- 

Measure Y A ot the arm's eye measure down line A from line B and place 
dot 4- 

Measure y 2 the arm's eye measure on line A fi" " 1 hne B and place dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 7 
inches from dot 5- 

Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on 
line D from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- 

Place letter A on dot ^ and draft line F to dot 8- 

Measure l /i tne width of both darts in from dot 7 on line F and place dot 9- 

Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot 6- 

Measure 1-10 of the waist measure online F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10- 

Measure 3^ of the width of both darts from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add *£ 
inch, then measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14- 

Place the j4 mark on dot 10 and draft line H t0 dot 14- 

Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14- 

Draft lines J and K straight down from dot 10 and H. 

Measure 3 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17- 

Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line M to dot 17. 

Measure }£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25- 

Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- 

Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2- 

Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C t0 dot 3 (use the round 
edge). 

Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20- 

Measure I 3/£ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the 
proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- 

Draft line R straight down from dot 22 t0 line D- 

Measure I */, inches up line R from line D and place dot 23- 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- 

Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S t0 dot 6- 

Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- 

Measure 2 inches straight in from the end of line B and place dot 27- 

Draft line V from dot 26 to dot 27- 

Place letter P on dot 27 and draft line W to meet the edge of goods 7 inches 
down. 



B 3 




MEASURE. 

Bust - - 3 6 

Waist 24 

Front ... 15 

Back --■ '6 

Under Arm 8 

Neck ._..-... 12 

Arm's Eye ' ° 



ETON BACK. 

Draft linesA and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine A fr° m line 
B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


X 


% 


% 


3 /8 


3 /8 


% 


% 


5/8 


M 


H 


H 


% 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


IO 


I 1 


1 2 


•3 

2/8 


•4 


«s 


16 


'7 


18 


Dot 3 


13/8 


ll A 


1 H 


'-<4 


1 y% 


2 


*V\ 


236 


2l/ 2 


2 5/8 


2 3/j 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3' 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of back down line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 4 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4 

Measure I ?/ inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure Y\ inch less than the combined width ot centre back and side body 
from dot 5 and place dot 0. 

Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5- 

Measure i>]/, inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot $)• 

Measure 3 V, inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot IO- 

Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line fl Y inch 
less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. 

Measure 1/ of the arm's eye measure straight down from dot H and place 
dot 12- 

Place the point of curve on dot 12 and draft line J to dot H. 

Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K to dot g. 

UNDER-ARH FORH. 

Measure 2}4 inches on line B fr° m dot B and place dot 2- 

Measure the distance that the table gives for the width of under arm from dot 
2 and place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots 6 an d 12 in the back and then measure 
that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Measure 1 j£ inches straight out from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- 

Measure the width of under arm straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6 and measure up from 
dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7- 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2- 

Place letter Jj on dot ^ and draft line B to dot 3> extending I inch below. 

Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line (J to dot 7- 

ETON AND BOLERO COAT. 

Draft line A + inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B 1 / inches from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °" line A from line 
B and place dot 2- 



Dot 2 


■^ 


1% | 2 


*ti 


■2-Y* 


234 


3 


3H 


3Y2 


3Yx 


4 


\% 


Neck Size 


7 


81 9 


10 


1 1 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Dot 3 


*# 


*=/■& *Y\ 


*% 


3 \lY* 


3Y4 


3^« 


3% 


3 '"'« 


33/ 


3 "8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A and place dot 3- 

Measure I inch less than Yx of arm's eye measure on line A from line B and 
place dot 4- 

Measure "4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line B straight out beginning 7 
inches from dot 5- 

Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for the bust number on line B from 
dot 5 and place dot B- 




Measure y 2 inch less than under arm length straight down from dot R and 
place dot 7- 

Measure y, inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot X- 

Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8- 

Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. 

Measure % inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place 
dot 9- 

Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X beginning at the point of 
curve. r 

Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the 
length ot under arm and place new dot 6- 

Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D 
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot X and draft line G out 3 
inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4. 

Measure one tenth of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10- 

Add % inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line 
F h-om dot 10 and place dot H. 

Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U, inch • 
then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 

Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15. 

Measure ^ inch toward line A from dot 15 and place dot 16. 

Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16. 

Draft line K parallel with line J. 

Measure % inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25 

Measure % inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26- 

Draft lines T and U to meet 4 inches below dot 2- 

Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round 
edge ) . v 

Measure by, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 

Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q Yl inch 

less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22- 
Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line R- 
Measure 1 y inches on line R from line D and place dot 23- 
Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- 
Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft line S to new 

dot 6. 

Place letter K on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22- 
Measure 3 % inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27. 
Measure 2 y 2 inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28 
Place letter Q on dot 27 and draft line U to dot 28, beginning I inch above 
dot 27- 

Draft line V from dot 26 to the end of line V- 
Finish as desired below the waist line. 
For Bolero Jacket follow dotted lines. 



GIRL'S CLOAK 

Draft line A 2 % inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line R 1 inch from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from hne 
B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 



Neck Size 



Dot 3 



l H 



H 



'*■ 



2 3/ 



*A 



2 % \*U 



^A 



10 



3 \i l A 



i l A 



)% 



1% 



13 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line R from line 
A and place dot 3- 

Place the point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3 Tuse the round 

edge). t L 




8 Years. 
MEASURE. 

Bust.. 28 

Waist . . 25 

Front 9^2 

Back 1 1 y 2 

Under Arm 5 i/j" 

Neck . . 10 

Arm's Eye 13 



Measure y 2 inch more than ^ the arm s eye measure down line A from 
line B and place dot 5- 

Draft line D straight out, beginning 4 inches from dot 5- 

Measure 1 inch more than the table gives for bust number on line D fr° m dot 
5 and place dot (J. 

Measure y 2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 
and place dot 7- 

Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 an d place dot 8- 

Draft line p from dot 8 to dot 7- 

Measure I inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot 8 on '> ne F 
and place dot •)• 

Place the \ 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line E t0 dot 8. 

Measure 1 y 2 inches out from dot 9 and place dot 16. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17- 

Place the V 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 17- 

Measure 6 ' A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20- 

Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21- 

Place letter A on dot 3, tne e dge of curve on dot 21, and draft line Q ^2 
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line Di 

Measure I inch up line R from line D and place dot 23- 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- 

Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6- 

Place letter K on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. 

Measure I inch in on line B fr° m line A and place dot 25- 

Place the point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line T 
extending ^ inch above dot 25- 

Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge of 
goods 3 y, inches down. 



BACK. 

Draft lines A and B • inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measu-e the distance given in the table under dot 2 down line A fr° m '' ne B 
and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


7 
•ft 


X 

8 


9 

•ft 


10 
1% 


H 


% 


% 


Neck Size 


1 1 


12 

2 


•3 


Dot 3 


zy& 



3 inches below line B and extending 3^ inch below 



Measure the distance given in the table under dot 3 on line B^ot line A and 
place dot 3- 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure the length of* back on line A from line B and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 

Measure i^ inch from dot 4 ° n nne D and place dot 5- 

Measure 14 inch less than \ 2 °f tne combined width of center-back side body 
and under arm from dot 5 and place dot 6 

Draft line E, beginning 
dot 5. 

Draft line F I V 2 inches straight in from the end of line E and place dot 7- 

Draft line G straight down from dot 7- 

Measure 6j4 inches on line B ' rorr i dot 3 and place dot 9- 

Measure 3)4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A °n dot 3, edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H V-> inch 
'ess than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Measure J^ inch less than y^ of the arm's eye measure straight down from 
the end of line H and place dot 12- 

Place letter R* on dot 12 and draft line J to the end of line B- 

Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft line K extending 34 inch below dot 6- 



B 



JO 



JO 




52 .^ [2 § J* 






MEASURE, 6 YRS. 

Bust 26 

Waist 24 

Front 8^ 

Back 11 

Under Arm 4^ 

Neck 10 

Arm's Eye 12 






CHILD'S COAT— BACK. 

Draft lines A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure y 2 inch less than j^ of neck measure on line B from line A and 
place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place 
dot 4. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 

Measure one inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure % of waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5. 

Place letter N on dot 5 and draft line F to meet line A 5 % inches below 
dot 4. 

Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. 

Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H % 
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot I I. 

Measure l /± of arms eye measure straight down from dot I I and place 
dot 12. 

Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 1 2 and place dot 1 3. 

Place letter D on dot I I and draft line J to dot 13. 

Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13. 

Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15. 

Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15. 

Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F. 



UNDER ARM. 

Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2. 

Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and 
place dot 3. 

Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13 in the back and then meas- 
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight out from dot 4 and 
place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up 
from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7. 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 

Place G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. 

Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8. 

Measure 51^ inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9. 

Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. 

Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot II. 

Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II. 

Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II. 




MEASURE 6 YRS. 

Bust 26 

Waist 24 

Front . 8 i/ A 

Back 11 

Under Arm 424 

Neck 10 

Arm's Eye 12 



CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT. 

Draft line A 3 J^ inches from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B 1 ' 2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure y£ of the neck measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure * 2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on line B from line A and 
place dot 3. 

Place letter B on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 
• Measure '; ot the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place 
dot 4. 

Measure the length ot the under arm measure down line A from dot 4 and 
place dot 5. 

Draft line F straight out from dot 5. 

Draft line D straight out beginning 4 inches from line dot 4. 

Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6. 

Measure one inch more than y± of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and 
place dot 7. 

Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 7. 

Measure 2^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Measure 5 V? inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line G to dot 9. 

Hold end of tape line on dot 3 and draft line H from dot 9 to the edge of 
goods. 

Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10. 

Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 1 and place dot I I . 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot I I , and draft line Q V± 
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. 

Measure y± inch up line R from line D and place dot 12. 

Place the point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6. 

Place letter K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q. 

Measure 3 inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place 
dot 13. 

Measure 2 % inches straight in from dot 4 and place dot 14. 

Draft from dot 2 to dot 13. 

Place letter Q on dot 13 and draft to dot 14. 

Place letter R on dot 14 and draft to the junction ot line G and the edge 
of goods. 



UNDER ARM. 








Place the long arm of square on line A (in the back) the short arm on doi 
12 and draft line N straight from dot 12- 

Measure 3 inches from dot 12 on line N and place dot 2- 

Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on line D and place dot 3- 

Place letter Q on dot 2 and draft line A extending, 3^ 'nch below dot 3- 

Draft from the end of line A to the end of line K in the back. 

Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of center-back, side bodv 
and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Measure the width of under arm form, as given in the table, from dot 2 on 
line N and place dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 5, and measure up from 
dot 4» '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6- 
Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line B to dot 4- 
Place the X point of the curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6- 
Measure l y i inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7- 
Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 7 and -place dot 8- 
Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 8- 

CAPES 

Draft line A ' inch from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B 5 inches from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 
B and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


5% 


6 

10 
6# 


6^ 
6</ 4 


6>4 
12 

6-/8 


63 A 


7 

>4 
6s/ 8 


7* 


Neck Size 2 


9 
6 


"; 


Dot 3 


6 3/ 4 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 

A and place dot 3- 

Draft line C 7 inches straight out from dot 2- 

Measure 1 }4 inches on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Measure I }/, inches up line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Measure 3/£ inch in on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6- 

Place the short arm of square on dot 5, the long arm on dot 6 and place dot 

7 at the point of square. 

Place letter D on line C 2 inches from dot 4 and draft line E to dot 7. 
Place the point of curve on dot 7 and continue line E to dot 3. 
Measure i/ x inch down line E from dot 7 and place dot 8 
Measure i/± inch up line E from dot 7 and place dot 9. 

Place the corner of square on the junction of lines A and B, the edge on dot 
7 and measure 3 inches out from dot 1 and place dot 12- 
Draft lines F and 6 from dot 12 to dots 8 and 9. 
Place letter M on dot 4 and draft line H to meet line A > 1 inches below dot 

2 

Measure 9 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 13- 

Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 13 and place dot 14. 
•Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 14, and draft line J 2 
inches more than the length of front and place dot 16- 

Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 15. 

Draft line R 7 inches straight out from dot 15. 

Draft line J, 6 inches straight down from dot 16- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 7 and draft a curved line from the end of 
line K to line L- 



CIRCULAR CAPE 





The neck measure and length are all the measures that are necessary. It the 
goods are wide enough to cut without a seam then fold the goods and 
measure up the fold the length that you wish the cape and place dot 2- 
Place dot 3 — l /i °f tne neck measure from dot 2- Stick a pjn through 

the end of the tape line and in dot 3 an d draft a curved line beginning at dot 
2- Without removing the pin or tape line, measure down the fold of 

the goods the length that you wish the cape and draft a curved line. It 

the goods are not wide enough to cut without a seam then use the selvedge 
in the place of the fold, this will make a seam in the center of the back only. 
Allow for seam in cutting out. 

CAPUCHIN HOOD. 

Draft lines A and B '2 inch from edge and end of cloth. 

Measure l/± inch less than '-C of neck measure on line A from line B 

and place dot 2- 

Measure j£ inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from line A 

and place dot 3- 

Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Measure |6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5- 

Place letter A on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3- 

Measure 14.1-2 inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 6- 

Measure 1 inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7- 

Measure 7 inches on line B from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Place letter K on dot 7, the edge of curve on dot 9 and draft line D 

to the yi mark on the curve. 

Measure ^ inch straight in from the end of line D and place dot 10 
■ Place letter G on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up. 
Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10- 

RED RIDING HOOD. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from edge and end of goods. 

Measure 3^ inch less than % the neck measure on line A and from 

line B and place dot 2- 

Measure l /i. the neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3- 

Measure io 1 ^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5- 

Measure l/% inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to d6t 2. 

Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to dot 3- 

Measure 5 l /> inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot T. 

Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place the 8 inch mark (on the curve) on dot 8, the edge on dot 10 

and continue line D to the X point of the curve. 

Place letter H on the end of line D and draft to dot 4- 



DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. 




FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B % inch from the en d of goods out 15 inches. 

Measure 1 ]/ x inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom " ne A and 
place dot 3- 

Place letter F on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure down the fold of goods from dot 2 the length of skirt measure and 
place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4 about I 5 inches. 

Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 5- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3» the e dge on dot 6» and draft line E 
.own l inch more than the skirt length. 

Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7- 

Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc. 

Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. 

Measure ) 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9- 

Place the corner of square on dot 8» the edge on dot 9. and draft line G 
down 14 inches and place dot 10- 

Measure 1 5 l 4 inches on line E fr° m dot 3» and place dot H. 

Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft line H to dot H. 

Measure 2 inches more than j4 of skirt length on line E, from dot H, and 
place dot 12- 

Hold the end of tape line 011 dot 3 and draft a curved line from the end of 
line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4- 

Hold the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft a 
curved line from dot 12 to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4- 



_jSi 1 




BACK. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 3 $4 inches on line A» rrom line B. and place dot 2- 

Measure 1 inch more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2, and place 
dot 3. 

Draft line C» out from dot 3, about I 5 inches. 

Measure $% inches less than J^ of waist measure, on line B from line A. 
and place dot 4- 

Measure 4 inches on line B, from line A. and place dot 5- 

Measure z 1 /, inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6 

Place letter T on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4- 

Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 4. and place dot 7- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 8. and draft line F down 
1 inch more than the skirt length. 

Measure 1 5 % inches on line F, from dot 4, and place dot 9. 

Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10- 

Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10- 

Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 6- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge on dot 9> and draft line H 2 
inches more than }4 the skirt length from dot 9- 

Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved 
line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4- inches from dot 3. 

Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line K r " rom the end 
of line H to meet line J. *" 




FLARE SKIRT NO. 507 FRONT. 

Use the told of goods for line A. 

Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods. 

Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3. 

Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 

Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and 
place dot 4. 

Draft line D 20 inches straight out from dot 4. 

Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. 

Measure '; inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and 
draft line E to line D. 

Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7. 
Measure I 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8. 

Measure 1 }£ inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and 
place dot 9. 

Measure \£ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10. 

Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot 9. 

l4 inch allowed for seam. 




FIRST GORE. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 1 W inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 1 y? inches more than ^ of the waist measure on line B from 
line A and place dot 3. 

Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 

Measure ■_. inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5. 

Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line 
B and place dot 6. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 6. 

Measure 1 '_, inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5. 

Measure 9 inches up line E from dot 7 and ••_, inch in and place dot 8. 

Place letter S on dot 8 and draft to dot 6. 

Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up. 

Measure 2 inches out from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. 

Measure 1 \i inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10. 
. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 1 and place dot I I . 

Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot I I , and draft line F 
to line D. 

Place letter H on dot 3 and draft to dot II. 

Hold the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot 
7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F. 

Measure 1 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch straight out and 
place dot 12. 

Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12. 

Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up. 







771 — — *T" 
v> Worn 4- 3 




SECOND GORE. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2. 

Measure I \i inches less than y± of the waist measure on line B from dot 
2 and place dot 3. 

Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 

Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B. 

Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and 
draft line D straight out. 

Measure 2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4. 

Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4. 

Measure 1 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and y z ' ncn > n an d place dot 5. 

Measure ' 2 inch up line A from line D and place dot 6. 

Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6. 

Place letter W on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5. 

Place letter U on dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4. 

Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7. 

Measure I l / 2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place the corner of square on dot 7, the edge on dot 9, and draft line F 
2^ inches more than the skirt length. 

Measure t, 1 /- inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10. 

Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4. 

Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and 
place dot I I . 

Place letter W on dot I I and draft to dot 10. 

Place letter S on dot I I and draft to meet line F 1 1 inches up. 

Place 4etter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9. 

BACK. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 1-10 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. 

Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and 
place dot 4. 

Draft line D 1 2 inches straight out from dot 4. 

Measure 4 inches less than J^ the skirt length up line A from dot 4 and |^ 
inch straight in and place dot 5. 

Draft from dot 5 to dot 4. 

Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 1 1 % inches up trom 
dot 5. 

Measure 4'/, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 6. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E 6 
inches more than the skirt length. 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of line E to 
meet line D. 

CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. 

Draft line A one inch from the edge of cloth. 

Use the end of cloth for line B. 

Measure 50 inches down line A from line B and draft line C straight 
out 56 inches. 

Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C. 

Measure 1 3 \' 2 inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. 

Measure 2 ',< inches on line B from line A and place dot 4. 

Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft a curved 
line E from dot 4 to meet line D. (See Diagram) . 

Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line 
F the width of flounce desired. 

Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on 
dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired. 

Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H 
from the end of line F to the end of line G. 

This will give the foundation for any style of Flounce desired. See 
dotted lines. 



6 5* S 




^■fcu.^-y.fc B 




SKIRT NO. 407. 

Use the fold of goods for line A. 

Draft line B yi inch from the end of goods. 

Measure }4 inch on line A from line JJ and place dot 2- 

Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place 
dot 3. 

Draft line C straight out from dot 3 about i z inches. 

Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure i inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E • Vi 
inches more than the skirt length. 

Place the V 2 mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 7- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 an d draft from the end of line E to meet 
line C- 

Allow i/\ mcn ' or seam on line E- 

FIRST SIDE PANEL. 

Draft line A VL inch from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure yi inch on line A fr° m line B an d place dot 2- 

Measure I J^ inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and 
place dot 3- 

Draft line C l A the waist measure straight out from dot 3- 

Measure }4 inch less than i^ of waist measure on line B fr° m hne A and 
place dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- 

Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. 

Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E - 
inches more than the skirt length. 

Measure 3/£ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D an d place dot 8- 

Place the % mark on dot 8 an d draft to dot 7- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet 
line C- 




SECOND SIDE PANEL. 

Draft line A Yx inch from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B l'i inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 3/£ inch on line B from line A and place dot 2- 

Place the l - 2 mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. 

Measure z inches more than the skirt length on line A fr° m line B and pla^ 
dot 3. 

Draft line C straight out from dot 3 — 1 /2 the waist measure. 

Measure l inch less than yl of the waist measure on line B fr° m h ne A and 
place dot 4- 

Place letter F on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure 2 ' 2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (J- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar >d place dot 7 

Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2 
inches more than the skirt length. 

Measure 3/£ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8- 

Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet 
Hne C- 

Allow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E- 







BACK. 

Dratt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B '2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 1 U inches on line A from line B a °d place dot 2- 

Measure 2 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place 

dot 3. 

Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m l' ne A an d place dot 4- 

Place letter F on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure ' 2 ' inch on line D fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 5- 

Place the *4 mark on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 8 inches down. 

Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar) d place dot 6- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7 an d draft line E z 

inches more than the skirt length. 

Measure l / z the distance between dot 4 ar >d line A on fine B ar, d place dot 8- 
Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 an d draft line C from dot 3 to the end of 

line C- 

Allow y± inch for seam on lines A an d E- 



SKIRT NO. 405. 

USE FRONT OF 407. 

Draft line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure i}( inches on line A from line B and place dot 2- 

Measure 1 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 
and place dot 3- 

Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- 

Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below 
dot 2- 

Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6- 

Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and G- 

Measure 2 > 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9- 

Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot H and draft line 
E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9 

Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot 
9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line). 

Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end 
if line E- 

Allow Vx inch seam on lines A and E- 



BACK. 

Draft line A V\ inch from the edge of goods. 
Draft line B /i inch from the end of goods. 
Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2- 
Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 
and place dot 3- 

Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4- 
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 
Measure V, inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5- 





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Place the ^ mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 4 inches below 
dot 2- 

Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 6- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 7 and draft 
line E 2^ inches more than the skirt length. 

Measure j4 of the waist measure on line B from line A and place 
dot 8- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 and draft line C from the 
end of line E to within 5 inches of line A — finish with a straight 
line to dot 3- 

Allow y^ inch for seams on lines A and E- 



SKIRT NO. 403. 



USE FRONT OF NO. 407. 




Drajt line A Y\ inch from the edge of goods. 

Dralt line B % inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 8 T ^ inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 1 }i inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 
and place dot 3. 

Draft line C 12 inches straight out from dot 3. 

Measure 4 inches more than */, of the waist measure on line B from 
line A and place dot 4. 

Draft line D ! 6 of the waist measure straight out from dot 2. 

Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2. 

Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line D and place dot 6, 

Measure % inch straight up from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 8. 

Use the % mark to draft lines E and F to dot 8. 

Measure % of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 9. 

Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place clot 10. 

Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to dot 7. 

Place letter V on dot 10 and draft to dot 4. 

Measure */> the distance between line A and dot 4 on line B and place 
dot 11. 

Measure 9 inches from dot 4 on lin° B and place dot 12. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. 

Place the cornei- of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 13 and draft line 
G 3jj inches more than the skirt length and place dot 14. 

Hold end of tape on dot H and draft from dot 14 to line C. 

Allow for seams on lines A and E- 

When double box plait is desired, take from the top 3 inches and 
and from the bottom 9 inches. See dotted lines. 

When a fan plait is desired, add 1 inch to the top and 33.^ to the 
bottom. See dotted lines. 



DOUBLE BOX PLAIT. 

Fold the goods 1 6 inches wide and use the fold for line A. 
Draft line B Y inch from the end of goods out 5 inches. 
Measure Y inch on line A from line B and place dot 2. 
Place letter H on the end of line B and draft line D to dot 2- 
Measure 4}4 inches more than the skirt length on the fold of goods 
from dot 2 and place dot 3. 

Draft line C 1 5 inches straight out from dot 3. 
Measure 4 inches on line C from dot 3 and place dot 4. 
Draft line E from the end of line B to the end of line C. 








Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on line E from line B and 
and place dot 5. . 

Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4. 

Draft the same for a single box plait, making the top 3 inches and the 
bottom 12 inches. 

For a triple box plait make the top 7 inches and the bottom 19 inches. 
Allow for seam on line E. 

GOLF, BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT. 

USE FRONT OF 407. 
SIDE PANEL. 

Draft line A Y inch from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B 5^ inch fr° m the end of goods. 

Measure 1 *4 inches on line A h" om hne B and place dot 2. 

Measure 1 Y> inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and 
place dot 3. 

Draft line C ' z inches straight out from dot 3. 

Measure j 3 of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2. 

Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Place letter G on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. 

Measure '/s of waist measure on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot 6. 

Measure I l /i inches from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Use the y 2 mark to draft lines P and G from dots 6 and 7 to dot 8. 

Measure zy, inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 9. 

Measure 2 l / 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and pl a ce dot il. 

Place the corner of square on dot 9» the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line E ' l /z 
inches more than the skirt length. 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9. 

Hold end of tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet 
line C. 

Allow y inch seam on lines A and E- 

BACK. 

Draft line A Y\ i nc h from the edge of goods. 

Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 5^/4 inches on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. 

Measure 2 y 2 inches more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3. 

Draft line C ' 2 inches straight out from dot 3. 

Measure 1 \u inches less than y z of waist measure on line B fr° m line A and 
place dot 4. 

Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 4. 

Measure y inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. 

Measure 7 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 and place dot 6. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7. 

Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 1 and draft line E 2 Yi 
inches more than the skirt length from dot 4. 

Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 9. 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet 
line C 5 inches from dot 3. 

Allow y inch for seam on lines A and E. 



e » 4 b 




CHILD'S SKIRT— FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods foi line A- 

Draft line B ]/2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure J^ inch on line A fr° m ' me B and place dot 2- 

Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3- 

Measure I y inches less than y of the waist measure on line B fr° m ' me A 

and place dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure I inch out from dot 4 an d place dot 5- 

Measure I inch out from dot 5 ar >d pkce dot 6- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line E the 

length of skirt. 

Place letter. H on dot 4 ar >d draft to meet line E 6 inches below dot 5- 
Place letter }jf on dot 3 an d draft line C t0 the en d of line E- 
Allow y inch seam on line E- 

SIDE. 

Draft line A V\ inch fr° m the edge of goods. 

Draft line B /^ inch from the end of goods. 

Measure zy inches on line A from line B an d place dot 2- 

Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3- 

Draft line C straight out from dot 3- 

Measure I inch more than j >'i of the waist measure on line B from line A ar) d 
place dot 4 

Place letter H on dot 4 a nd draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 an d place dot 5- 

Place letter M on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2- 

Measure y inch from dot 4 an d place dot 6- 

Measure } M inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar| d place dot 8- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6, tne edge on dot 8, an d draft line E the 
length of skirt. 

Place letter R on dot 4 ar| d draft to meet line E 5 inches down from dot 6. 

Measure I l inches from dot 3 on '' ne C ar| d place dot 9- 

Measure I inch straight up from dot 9 an d place dot 10- 

Place letter W on dot 10 and draft to the end of line E> 

Place letter W on dot 3 a nd draft to dot 10- 

Allow y inch for seam on lines A an d E- 



Draft 



BACK. 

line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods. 



Draft line B l i i ncn from the end of goods. 

Measure 2 ^ : inches on line A fr° m '' ne B ar| d place dot 2- 

Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3. 

Draft line C straight out from dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch more than V3 waist measure on line B from line A ar, d place 
dot 4- 

Measure M inch straight out from dot 2 an d pl a ce dot 5- 

Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line D t0 dot 4 

Place letter fH on dot 5 ar >d draft to meet line A 8 inches below dot 2- 

Measure 5 inches on line B from dot 4 ar| d place dot 6. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line E th e 
length of skirt. 

Measure I 1 inches on line C fr° m dot 3 ar >d place dot 8- 

Measure 1 yC, inches straight up from dot 8 an d place dot 9- 

Place letter }/f on dot 9 and draft to the end of line E- 

Place letter \|f on dot 3 and draft to dot 9- 

Allow y inch seam on lines A and E- 

When a dart is required, measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making 
the dart 1 y, inches at top and to meet 4. inches straight down from the last dot. 



te \j it (X* 





RIDING SKIRT— NO. I. 

Use the edge of goods for line A- 

Draft line B % inch from the end of goods. 

Measure J inches on line A. from line B, and place dot 2- 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. 

Measure ' j of waist measure on line B» from line A, and place dot 4. 

Measure 4 ! _, inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure zyt, inches on line B, from dot 4, and place dot 6- 

Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. 

Measure 1 j£ inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8- 

Measure 1 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9. 

Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9. 

Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 10- 

Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7. 

Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

Measure 1 V 2 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 12. 

Draft line G from dot 10 to dot 12- 

Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2- 

Measure the length of skirt on line A. from dot 2, and place dot 13. 

Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13- 

Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I. 

NO. 2. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 3 inches on line A, from line B, and place dot 2- 

Measure 4^ inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 3. 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4. 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5. 

Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6 

Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6- 

Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6- 

Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7. 

Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8- 

Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8- 

Measure 8 inches on line B from line A and place dot 9. 

Measure 6*4 inches on line B, from dot 9, and place dot 10- 

Measure 12 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Measure 6 inches on line B, from dot 10, and place dot 12- 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. 

Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. 

Place letter R on dot H and draft line G to dot 13. 

Place the corner of square on dot H, the edge on dot 10, and draft line R 
straight out from dot 1 1 . 

Measure 8}4 inches on line H, from dot H, and place dot 14. 

Place letter F on dot H and draft line I to meet line R 3 % inches from 
dot 11. 

Place letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. 

Measure 51^ inches on line H, from dot 14, and place dot 16. 

Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. 

Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15. 

Measure 2^ inches on l.ne H, from dot 16, and place dot 18. 

Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 

Place letter F on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19. 

Measure 3 inches on line H, from dot 13, and place dot 20- 

Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length, straight down from dot 20 
and place dot 21- 

Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21- 

Place the corner f square on dot 21 and draft line R straight in 24 
nches. 

Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 14 and place dot 15. 



Measure 12 inches in on line K» from dot 21, and place dot 22- 
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23- 
Measure 1 o inches straight down from the end of line R and place dot 24- 
Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 23- 
Place letter R on dot 23 an d draft to dot 24- 
Place letter S on dot 24 and draft to dot 8- 




NO. 3. 

Use the edge of goods for line A- 

Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 9 inches on line A> fr° m une B. and place dot 2- 

Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr° m 

line A and place dot 3- 

Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4 

Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 5' 

Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6- 

Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8- 

Measure 31^ inches on line B» from dot 7» and place dot 9' 

Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\. 

Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H. 

Place a dot on line B % the distance between dots 7 ar >d 9 and measure 

straight down 1 1 yi inches and place dot 12- 

Place letter G on dot 4 and draft line P to dot 12. 

Place letter H on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 12- 

Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13- 

Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. 

Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13- 

Measure 3 i/J inches on line B, from dot \\, and place dot 14- 

Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- 

Measure 10 inches on line B» fr° m dot 14, and place dot 16. 

Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17. 

Place letter R on dot H and draft line J to dot 15- 

Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. 

Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18- 

Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19- 

Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20- 

Measure 1 % inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21- 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22- 

Measure 1 1 inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and 

place dot 23- 

Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23- 

Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place 

dot 24 

Measure I 2 inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 25- 

Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26- 

Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2- 

Measure 8 inches on line A» from dot 25, and place dot 27- 

Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot 28- 

Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28- 

Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24- 

Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29- 

Draft line L> from dot 29, to dot 23- 

Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot 30- 

Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot 31- 

Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31- 

Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30, an d pl»ce dot 32- 




Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 32 and place dot 33- 
Place letter S on dot 33 and continue line M to dot 31- 
Place letter R on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33- 

POCKET. 

Drafc lines A anc l B % inch fr° m tne e dg e an d en d of goods. 
Measure 1 }4 inches on line A» fr° m une B» and place dot 2- 
Measure 4 inches on line B> fr° m line A. and place dot 3- 
Place the point of curve on dot 3 a °d draft line C t0 dot 2- 
Measure 414 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4- 
Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5- 
Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 4. and place dot 6- 
Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7- 
Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7- 
Measure 14 inches on line A. fr° m dot 2» and place dot 8- 
Draft line E straight out from dot 8- 
Measure 3 inches on line E» fr° m dot 8. and place dot 9. 
Place letter D on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9- 
Measure zyi inches from dot 9. on line E. an d place dot 10- 
Place letter B °n dot 7 afi d draft to dot 10- 




TROUSERS FRONT. 

Draft lines A a nd B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 1 inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr° m ' in e 
B and place dot 2. 

Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. 

Measure 4'^ inches on line A. from line B. and place dot 4. 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5. 

Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2. 

Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and 
draft line D out 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2. 

Measure 2 inches more than ^ the hip measure on line D fr° m dot 2 and 
place dot 6. 

Measure the length of outside ltg measure on line A. from line B, a nd place 

dot 7. 

Measure 1^ of waist measure on line B» fr° m dot 3. afi d place dot 8. 

Measure 2 V z inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9- 

Measure 1 inch from dot 9 a nd place dot 10. 

Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart. 

Measure 2 inches in on line D» fr° m dot 6. and place dot H. 

Measure 2 V? inches straight up from dot H and place dot 12. 

Place letter A on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12. 

Place letter C on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6. 

Measure 6 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 13. 

Measure 12 inches straight down from dot H and place dot 14. 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15. 

Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13. 

Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15. 

Measure 2 ^ inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from 
dot 7 and place dot 16. 

Continue line F from dot 15, extending }4 inch below dot 16. 

Place letter M on the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7. 



Waist ..24 

Outside leg measure . . . J 2 

Hips 4° 

Knee 12 

Ankle 9% 



BACK. 

Draft lines A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods. 
Measure 3 l / 2 inches on line A, from line B» and place dot 2. 
Measure }i of waist measure on line B, fr° m ,in e A. and place dot 3. 
Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 




Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. 

Measure i y 2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 5. 

Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6. and draft line D 
down 4 inches. 

Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D. 

Measure 7^ inches on line A. from dot 2> and place dot 7. 

Measure I j£ inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8- 

Measure I inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Draft line F from dot 2 to dot 8- 

Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 9- 

Measure I inch more than ?/* of leg measure on line A, from dot 2, and 
place dot 10- 

Place the short arm of square even with line A» the corner on dot 10> and 
draft line H ou t 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10. 

Measure 2 inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl» from dot 10. and 
place dot H. 

Measure 5 inches on line A, from d ■■. 10, and place dot 12. , 

Measure 4 inches straight out from -lot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13- 

Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 12, and place dot 14- 

Measure 4.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15- 

Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13- 

Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A, from dot 2> ar *d place 
dot 16. 

Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17- 

Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17- 

Measure 5 inches from dot 3, on line B, and place dot 18- 

Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- 

Place letter H on dot 3, and draft line K to dot 19- 

Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11, on line H, and place dot 20- 

Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

Place the point of curve on dot H and draft to dot 21- 

Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22- 

Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22- 

Measure 3/£ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23- 

Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23- 

Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place 
dot 24. 

Extend line L from dot 23 to one inch below dot 24- 

Place letter S on the end of line L and draft to dot 17. 

Place a dot j/ inch outside of the end of line L and draft to meet line L 4 
inches up. 

Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line J 4 inches up. 



CORSET COVER. 



BACK. 



Draft lines A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2, on line A fr° m 
line B, and place dot 2- 



NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


# 


X 


*A 


% 5/ 8 


Neck Size 


7 I 8 1 9 


IO 


1 1 


1 2 


•3 


H 1 «s 


16 


•7 


18 


Dot 3 


Ya H\ ' 


1 yi 


'tf 


l?8 


■^ 


• s /s *H 


174 


2 


2}i 



Measure the distance given jn the neck table, under dot 3> on line B from 
line A and place dot 3- ** 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 




Measure the length of back on line A. from line B. and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 4- 

Measure I inch on line D> from dot 4. and place dot 5- 

Measure the distance given in the table for center back and side body on line 
D, from dot 5. and place dot 6- 

Draft line E. from dot 2, to dot 5- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7- 

Measure yt, inch in towards line A. from dot 7, and place dot 8- 

Draft line F. from dot 5, to dot 8 

Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9- 

Measure 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H the 
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot H. 

Measure i - 2 inch less than }■£ of arm's eye measure straight down from dot 
11 and place dot 12- 

Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. 

Place letter Hon dot 6, and draft line K to dot 13- 

Measure >i inch on line D, from dot 6, and place dot 14- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15- 

Place letter A on dot 6, and draft line Q to dot 15- 

Draft line L from the center of the shoulder to the middle of line D, between 
dots 5 and (J. 

Place a dot on line H '8 i ncn ea ch side of line L and draft a dart to meet 2 
inches below line H, drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H, and 
draft a new line H f rom the end of dart line to point of shoulder. (See diagram ). 

Place letter S on the junction of lines D and L, and draft a slightly curved 
line to meet line L 9 inches above line D- 

Reverse the curve and draft on the opposite side of line L- (See dotted 
lines). 

Extend lines F and L about 2 inches below line D, w «h about l / 2 inch 
spring at bottom. (See dotted lines). 

Allow % inch seams on lines E, F, H. K and L- Cut on lines C and J. 

UNDER ARM FORM. 

Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on Ime D and place dot 2. 

Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3- 

Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure 
that distance straight up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4. 

Measure I ^A inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure the width of under arm form straight out from dot 4 and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from 
dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 

Place letter M on dot 1 and draft line B to dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. 

Measure I y 2 inches in from dot 2, on nne D, and place dot 8. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 

Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. 

Measure i/^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot \\, 



3 S 




CORSET COVER. 
FRONT. 

Draft line A '^-4 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B 1 inch from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A. from line 
B, and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


2 h% 


2*A 


2 3^ 


3 


1% 


lA 


3?< 


4 


4^ 


4# 


4 3 /8 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


'3 


H 


»5 


16 


•7 


18 


Dot 3 


2 


2}i 


»# 


2 3/i 


^A Wi 


234 


2ji 


3 


3# 3^ 


3^ 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3> on line B from line 
A, and place dot 3- 

Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 3/£ of the arm's eye measure on line A> from line B> and place 
dot 4- 

Measure yC, of the arm's eye measure on line A» fr° m line B> and place 
dot 5. 

Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D straight out, beginning 6 
inches from dot 5- 

Measure the width of bust number on line D» from dot 5» and place dot 6- 

Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place 
dor 7. 

Place letter A on dot 7. and draft line E to dot 6. 

Measure the length of front on line A. from dot 2. and place dot 8- 

Place letter H on dot 8, and draft line F to dot 7- 

Measure 2 inches down line E» from dot 6, and place dot 9- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 9, and draft line 6 out 
4 inches, beginning 2 inches from dot 4- 

Measure 1% inches on line F» from dot 8, and place dot 10- 

Measure the width of the dart, from dot 10, and place dot H. 

Measure 3^ inch from dot H and place dot 12. 

Measure ^ inch more than the width of the first dart, from dot 12. and 
place dot 13. 

Measure the distance between dot 8, and the center of the first dart, and add 
y 2 inch, then measure that distance on line G. from dot 4. and place dot 14- 

Measure the distance between dot 8. and the center of the second dart, and 
add 1^ inch and then measure that distance on line Q, from dot 4» and place 
dot 15- 

Place the A mar k on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 

Turn the curve over and draft line J. 

Draft lines J and K in like manner. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 16- 

Measure y 2 inch straight in from dot 16 and place dot 17- 

Draft line J, from dot 10 to dot 17- 

Draft lines M, N and parallel with line I,. 

Measure 1 3^ inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19- 

Place letter A on dot 7, and draft line P to dot 19. 

Measure 6% inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 20- 

Measure I 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21- 

Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 21. and draft line Q the 
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot 22- 

Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D- 

Measure 1 )' 2 inches up line R, from line D. and place dot 23- 

Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24- 

Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. 

Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- 

The front can be curved if desired. 

Follow the instructions given in the plain waist draftings. 

For low or square neck draft as per dotted lines. 



7 








i 3 


* 










• 


n 






\\ 

c\ \ 


6 




9 


T> 












H- 


1 

eh 








y 


i 








i 


"I' 


(0 








ij 








t9 


i 








% 


i 








U 


i 










il — 




9 




„_ 



3\ 



.z 



9 




J- s 




~ h 


/o 






• 




\ V 




R 




6 




fc D \ 




¥ 


1 




7i 


X 


I 


o 




(6 


It 


rP 


/' 


oc 

o 


13 j .lQ. 


1 


^ 


,' 


t 


'/ 


tJ 


'/ 


VJ 


'/ 




'/L-. 


f 



3 



LADIES' CHEM1SB. 
FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B s 2 ' ncn fr° m the e "d of goods. 

Measure I inch less than \4 of arm's eye measure down the fold ot goods 
from line B and place dot 2- 

Measure l inch less than }4 the neck measure on line B. from l' ne A- 
place dot 3- 

Draft line B straight out from dot 2- 

Measure y^ of the neck measure on line B> fr° m dot 2. and place dot 4- 

Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 4- 

Measure 2 inches more than the table gives for bust number on line B> from 
dot 2» and place dot 6. 
> Measure 6}4 inches on line B, from dot 3» and place dot 7- 

Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8 

Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 8. and draft line Q y 2 the 
roportionate shoulder measure. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. 

Measure I j4 inches up line R, from line B» and place dot 9- 

Place letter fl on dot 9» and draft line S to dot 6- 

Place letter K on dot 9, and extend line S to the end of line Q. 

Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 10- 

Measure I inch straight out from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot H, and draft line E the 
length desired. 

Slightly curve line E as per dotted lines. 

Draft line P from the end of line E to line A- 

BACK. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B Yz inch from the end of goods. 

Measure I inch less than *4 the arm's eye measure on line A. from line B> 

and place dot 2- 

Measure I y 2 inches less than y 2 of neck measure on line B. from line A, 

and place dot 3- 

Draft line B straight out from dot 2- 

Measure \i of the neck measure on line B» from dot 2, and place dot 4- 

Measure j4 inch more than l{ of the bust measure on line B, from dot 2. 

and place dot 6- 

Draft line (J, fr° m dot 3, to dot 4- 

Measure 6*^ inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 9- 

Measure I ^ inches straight down from dot 9, and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3» the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H '4 

the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line H to line B- 

Measure I inch up line R, from line B. and place dot 1 1 . 

Place letter B on dot H, and draft line S to dot 6- 

Place the point of curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line H- 

Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 12. 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6. the edge on dot 13, and draft line ,J the 

same length as line E in the front. 

Slightly curve line J. (See dotted lines). 

Draft line F fr° m the end of line E, to line A- 

Bust, 36 ; Neck, 12 ; Arm's Eye, 16 ; Length, 36. 




± IB 




9 




S« 


3 




H 






fo 








m 


7 






5, 


/b 







e 



f 



LADIES' DRAWERS. 

Use the fold oi goods for line A- 

Draft line B /2 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 4 inches down line A> from line B> and place dot 2- 

Measure ]/ 2 of the waist measure on line B. from hie A. and place dot 3- 

Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 3. and place dot 4- 

Measure I J^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5- 

Place letter G on dot 3. and draft Une C to dot 2- 

Place letter Q on dot 5. ar >d draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure the length of leg measure on line A> from dot 2» and place dot 6. 

Draft line E 3 inches less than the knee measure straight out from dot 6. 

Measure 1 "j inches more than */C of the leg measure down the fold of goods 
from dot 2 and place dot 7- 

Draft line F straight out beginning 10 inches from dot 7- 

Measure 5 inches more than y± the hip measure from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Measure 2)^ inches in from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Measure % °* the leg measure straight up from dot 9 and place dot \Q. 

Place the ]/ 2 mark on dot 5 and draft line Q to dot 10- 

Place the point of curve on dot 8 and draft to dot \Q. 

Draft line H straight down from dot 4. extending 1 inch below line F- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot \\. 

Place letter Q on dot 1 1 , and draft line J to the end of line E- 

Place letter T on dot 8. and draft to dot H. 

Place the point 01 curve on dot H, and draft to the end of line B- 

Cut on lines (J> D and E- Allow I J^ inch seams on lines Q and B f° r 
facing. (See dotted lines). 

Waist, 24 ; Hip, 40 ; Knee, I 5 ; Length, 24. 

LADIES' GOWN. 
FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B /4 inch from the end of goods. 

Measure % neck measure on line A» from line B. and place dot 2- 

Measure % of neck measure on line B, from line A> and place dot 3- 

Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 6^4 inches on line B. from dot 3> and place dot 4- 

Measure l / 2 inch straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place letter A ° n dot 3> the edge of curve on dot 5> and draft line Q l / 2 

inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Measure 2 inches less than V 2 the arm's eye measure straight down from the 

end of Une Q and place dot 6- 

Place the short arm even with line A, the long arm on dot 6, and draft ine 

D straight out from dot 6- 

Measure 14 inch straight up from dot and place dot 7- 

Place the point of curve on dot 7, and draft line S to the end of line Q. 

Measure 1 inch more than J^ of the arm's eye measure on line D. fr° m do* 

6, and place dot 8- 

Measure 1 ^ inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Place letter j) on dot 7 and continue line S to dot 9- 

Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 10- 

Measure 2 1 /, inches straight out from dot 10 and place dot 11. 

Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot H, and draft hre E 

the desired length. 

Draft line F straight in rrom the end of line E to line A- 

BACK. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B ^ 'nch from the end of goods. 

Measure )A inch on line A> fr° m line Bi and place dot 2- 

Measure '/g of the neck measure on line Bt fr° m line A> and place do* 3- 



A-S-t "3 







(p 2 & 





y g 'S 



3H 



~3> 



"lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3, on line B. and place dot 9- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft line H J4 

inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Measure 2 inches less than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line A, fr° m '' ne 

Bj and place dot 4- 

Draft line D straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 4- 

Measure 1 inch more than l /{ of the bust measure on line D fr° m dot 4, and 

place dot 5- 

Place letter D on the end of line H, and draft line J to dot 5- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 an d place dot (J- 

Measure I '4 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7' 

Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E the 

length of line E in front. 

Draft line F straight in from the end ot line E to line A. 

LADIES' UNDER SKIRT. 
FRONT. 

Use the told of goods for line A- 

Draft line B '2 inch fr° m the end of goods. 

Measure }4 inch on line A fr° m iine B, and pl a ce dot 2- 

Measure % °f tne waist measure on line B, fr° m l' ne A, and place dot 3- 

Measure j^. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Place letter R on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 2- 

Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5- 

Draft line D straight out from dot 5, about 10 inches. 

Measure V 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6- 

Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E % 
inch more than the skirt length. 

Place letter R on dot 4, an d draft to dot 7- 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E to 
meet line D- 

SIDE GORE. 

Use the edge of goods for line A- 

Draft line B }{. inch fr° m the end of goods. 

Measure 4 inches less than % of waist measure on line B> from line A, and 
place dot 2- 

Measure ^ inch on line A, f rom ,ine B, and place dot 3- 

Measure 1 l / 2 inches straight out from dot 3 an d pl a ce dot 4- 

Place letter R" on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 4- 

Place letter R on dot 4, and draft to meet line A 9 inches below dot 3- 

Measure l / 2 inch more than the skirt length on line A from dot 3, and place 
dot 5. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 5- 

Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 6- 

Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E ' 
J i.h more than the skirt length. 

Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end of 
line E to meet line D- 

BACK. 

Use the edge of goods for line A- 

D-af* line B % inch from the end of goods. 

measure \: 2 of the waist measure on line B from line A. and place dot 2- 

Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place 
dot 3. 

Draft line D straight out from dot 3- 

Measure 2 inches on line B fr° m dot 2, and place dot 4- 

Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 5, and draft line E ' 
inch more than the skirt length. 

Y'.oA the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end ot 
line E to meet line D- 

Allow at bottom for width of hem desired. 




TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL. 



First see that the lining is cut y 2 inch longer than the measure. Place 
the lining on the cloth. See that the cloth is perfectly smooth. Run a 
basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front 
and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back, side-body and under arm shape. 
Now push the lining up % inch and run a basting across the waist line. 
Now grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting (% inch stitch) 
% inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist line. 
Now baste in the tracing }£ inch stitch. Make the lining slightly full 
for about 1 inch below the waist line. The bones must be put in easy 
up to the waist line, when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above 
the waist line they must be sprung in at least y 2 inch in order to remove 
the fullness in the lining. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam 
of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line 
to do your basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point 
of the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be longe.' 
than % inch stitches. Be careful to baste in small stitches around tht 
arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching. 

In joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and remove 
the pins as you baste. Measure your waist before stitching the under 
arm seam, and if large or small, stitch inside or outside of the tra«"* 
lines. 





A)Vo\.A »<j^«oS5' 



BICYCLE BLOOMERS. 

.Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B %. inch from the end of goods. 

Measure 2 inches down line A from line B, and place dot 2- 

Measure 1% inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3 

Measure 2 inches more than % of the waist measure on line B from 
line A, and place dot 4. 

Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5 

Place letter M on dot 3, and draft line D to dot 5. 

Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A from dot 2, and 
place dot 6- 

Measure , inch less than % of outside leg measure on line A from dot 
2, and place dot 7. 

^Jj"*' S l° Tt arm ° f S( ^ uare even with lin e A, the corner on dot 7 
and draft line E straight out, beginning , 2 inches from dot 7 

7, 'IdpTce Z B. m0rC tha " * ° f thC hlP meaSUrC ° n lme E fr ° m d0t 
Measure 3} < inches in from dot 8 on hne E, and place dot 9. 
Measure 5 inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot 10 
Measure S % inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot U 
Measure 7 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 12. 
Measure 8 inches straight up from dot H and place dot 13. 
Measure 1 inch from dot 4 on line B, and place dot U. 
Draft line C from dot 14 to dot 2. 
Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12. 
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12 
Place the point of curve on dot 4 and draft line G to dot 13 
Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15 

from e dot6 Ld C pt eX is" thC meaSUrC af0Und thC aDkle Str ^ ht ° Ut 
Place letter G on dot 8, and draft line H to dot 15 
Place letter G on dot 15, and extend line H 1 inch beiow dot 16- 
Draft hne J from the end of line G to dot 6- 

SKIRT YOKE. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B 1 inch from the end of goods 

dotT 5 ^ 6 6/2 inChCS d ° Wn thC f ° ld ° f g00ds from line B and P lace 
Hold the end of tape line on the junction of line B and the fold of 

goods and draft curved line C from dot 2 to line B 

Measure 2 inches on line C from dot 2, and place dot 3. 
Place dots 4, 5 and 6 on line C 2 inches apart. 
Measure 1 inch from dot 6 on line C, ana place dot 1 
Measure 5 inches straight down from 7 and place dot 8 

D ^iVfnches"" ° f SqUarC ° n d0t 6 thC 6dge ° n d0t 8> alld draft line 

^!t C V he J ™" °i T are on the J un ction of line B and the fold of 
goods, the edge on dot 2, and measure down according to size of wais 

diagram.) * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do ' ted lines ™ the 

Place the edge of square on dots 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make a dot in the 
same manner, according to the waist measure 

dorado*: 011 ™ 6 ' 1 Hne ^ Pladng leUer J °" thC firSt d0t and draft from 

This will give you a correct shape at the waist line 

The yoke can be made any desired width, but it must be shaped at the 
back according to line D. 



Vienna 
Millinery Institute 

The entire art of 

FRENCH 

MILLINERY 

TAUGHT 

From the making of Wire Frames to the 

Final Finishing of the Hat 

or Bonnet. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING 

WAIST. 

To arrange the lining for drafting, fold it so that the drafting will be made on 
the wrong side of the lining. Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge 
towards vou. 

If the lining is to be put on full then it must be drafted l / 2 inch longer than 
the measure calls for. 

When your drafting is finished ( it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together 
well before tracing and cutting. 

Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and be a great assist- 
ance in your basting. 

Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. Never raise it with your 
hand. When cut put a small notch at the waist line. 

Trace the front, waist line, and darts with one wheel, all other sewing lines 
with both wheels, making a '^ inch seam, except on the shoulders and line E 
in the front and line B in the under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam 
so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired. 

The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the 
drafting. 

TO CUT THE GOODS. 

See that the goods are folded double ( unless they are stripes or plaids. ) ( See 
instructions for matching stripes, plaids and figures. ) 

Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. Place the lining 
on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to 
cut saving), unless the nap or figure runs the other way, which of course must 
be the first consideration. It is best to place all of the forms in position first and 
see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods, then pin carefully 
before cutting. 



YOU LEARN ALL THE FINE POINTS 



This system is so thoroughly taught that 
scholars after finishing are fully com- 
petent to take charge of business for 
themselves, or take leading positions 
for others. 



Vienna 
Millinery Institute 

5 WEST 14th STREET, NEW YORK 



Be very careful in basting. No matter how perfect vour draftings are the 
waist can be ruined bv improper basting. Do not draw the basting thread too 
tight, it will draw the goods out of position. Before removing the basting thread^ 
clip them every few inches, otherwise thev are apt 10 pull or break the thread 01 
the goods. 



Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lining on the goods 
right side up, then pin at the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist 
line with a little ease, pinning the lining to the material. Baste the waist line first,' 
then baste the other lines in the tracing up and down from the waist line with a 
stitch from ^ to ]/ 2 inch long. Do not put your hand under or raise up to 



baste, 
shape. 



Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm 



Place the lining on the goods. See that the front edge of the lining and goods 
meet. Pin the lining on a little easy, getting it all in place, then baste across 
the waist line, then line A. Now pin and baste the darts, which should br 
done very carefully, beginning at the top or point and basting down, using a V 
inch stitch. Now baste line E, starting from the waist line up. Baste shoulder 
next, then around the neck and arm hole with a y± inch stitch, being careful not 
to stretch the goods as it is cut partly on the bias. 

In taking up the darts, first pin carefully, beginning at the top of the dart and 
holding lines \ and K a little full for about 3 inches above the waist line, begin 
basting at the point of the dart, using a small firm stitch. 




These Tailoring Irons are up to 
date and the most practical irons to 
be had. They are cold handle and 
heat retainers. You can accomplish 
double the amount of work (without 
reheating) than with any other irons. 
The price is $2.00 per set (two irons 
and stand). We do not send them 
C. O. D. You cannot obtain them 
elsewhere. 




PRESSING CURVE 



TO JOIN. 

Take one side of the back and one side body, placing the two waist line; 
together and pin fast. Now pin in the traced or sewing lines, being careful nol 
to stretch either piece, so that both traced lines will come out even. Now -pin 
from the waist line down ; begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as 
you baste, making a small stitch, not over y^ inch. Now baste down from the 
waist line. 

Take the under arm shape and pin to the side body, being careful to have the 
waist lines meet ; baste from waist line up and down. Now join the back, pin- 
ning at the waist line, and then in the traced lines up and down ; begin basting 
at the waist line up, then down. 



TO STITCH. 

First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, and a medium stitch 
(not too short), run the machine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast). 
Use silk in stitching in every case. Begin the back seams starting at the neck, 
and stitch just inside of the basting, stretching the seam well for about 8 inches 
above the waist line, while stitching, in order that the seam will give to the bone 
when that is sprung in so as not to break the stitch in the seam. 

Stitch the next, or side body seam, with the side body up, beginning at dot 2, 
and stitching down, just inside of the basting ; stretch the seam while stitching 
for about 6 inches above the waist line. Stitch the under arm shape on the side 
body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, ar >d stitching down just inside 
of the basting, stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the 
waist line. To stitch the left side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch 
up, following the same instructions, this will place the side body and under arm 
shape the same as the right side. 

Front. — Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line and stitching up 
and down. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart, beginning ^4 
inch below the point of the dart, and finishing i^ inch above, nearly parallel 
with the thread of the goods ; this will obviate any fullness. 

PRESSING. 

First, remove the basting from the seams only. Never press a curved seam 
on a flat surface ; if you have nothing better turn a rocking-chair bottom up, and 
use the rocker. See that the iron is well heated — not too hot ; start pressing at 
the bottom of the waist ; take plenty of time and be careful that the iron does 
not come in contact with any other part of the waist. Do not stretch the seams. 
If heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened. 



This curved pressing board is as 
necessary to the dressmaker as it is 
to the ladies' tailor. Every waist, 
sleeve, dart in skirt, and any curved 
seam in any garment should be pressed 
over the curved presser. 

This curve must not be copied 
without our consent. 

The price is |i.oo. 



TO PREPARE FOR BONING. 



First take the back seam and notch at the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches 
above ; then trim and round the seam off" at the notches ; now either overhand 
or bind the seam ; if binding is used be careful and put it on slightly full so as to 
prevent any tightness on the seam. Notch the side body or curved seam at the 
waist line and z l / 2 , 5 and 8 inches above waist line ; after notching finish off 
the seam the same as back, the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side 
body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the 
other seams. 

Front. — Cut open the dart to within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide 
part down to y 2 inch in width. Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2 
inches above, and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist 
line, and finish the same as the other seams. (The reason for notching the seams 
is to allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. ) Now fold the front 
hem in along line A, and baste y, inch back to prepare the front for button holes 
or hooks and eyes. When buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of 
lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes. Do not turn in the 



r& j[^#i|!a ?sf> 




Warren's 
Featherbone 

Is the Standard Dress Stiffening of the world. 
Its peculiar quill construction makes it the 
lightest, most durable and flexible dress- 
boning material on the market. 

Warren's Featherbone is used and recom- 
mended bv such prominent fashion creators 
as 

Mme. L. Stewart, of Arnold, Constable & Co. 

Mr. Paul Sarraco, of" John Wanamaker. 

Mme. Gabler, of Lord & Taylor. 

Mr. Henry Levy, of Stern Bros. 

Miss S. C. Griffiths, of Alcott & WeeKes. 

Mr. H R. Hickson, of Everall Bros. 

Mrs. Frazer, of Simpson, Crawford & Simpson 

Mr. I. Levy, of Jas. McCreery & Co. 

Mr. S. Brown, Ladies' Tailor, New York. , 

The Bergdorf-Goodman Co., Robes et Manteaux, 

New York. 
Moschowitz Bros., Ladies' Tailors, New York. 
Redfern's, Robes, New York. 

Isn't that good evidence of its worth ? 
Accept no substitute, but get Warren's, the 
one and only Featherbone. Sold by all 
dealers. None genuine without the feather 
trademark. Send for "Featherbone Meth- 
ods." It's FREE. 

The Warren Featherbone Co. 

General Offices, Three Oaks, Mich. 

New York, 808 Broadway 

Boston, 7 Temple Place 

Chicago, 704 Harshall Field Annex Building 



left side, as that is used as a fly, by putting on a tape just back of line A. t0 s,a . v 
the buttons. When • hooks and eyes are used it is well to turn back and 
fold the lining along line A, an d stitch '& inch back from the edge. It is best 
to place a bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running 
up ; to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y£ inch 
further in (or the width of the bone. ) The bone should be placed in before 
putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from 
edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. Face over the hooks and eyes with 
a narrow bias strip. 



Real whalebones are always good and should be prepared by soaking in cold 
or tepfid water. (Never in hot, as that makes them brittle.) We also recom- 
mend Feather Bone. When the single casing is used, it should be sewed on 
firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above, 
the balance put in slightly full. Turn the end of the binding down forming a 
loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly. 

Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom 
to the top of the loop. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^ 
inch below the top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness 
in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. Then hoop the 
bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten 
firmly 1 inch below the waist line. When double casing is used, cut the casing 
2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the casing, turn the upper end 
of the casing down I y£ inches and fasten, the balance to be turned up at the 
bottom and fastened. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam • 
inch up from the bottom of the waist. Now spring the bone \! z inch and fasten 
firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone. Sew both sides to the seam 
down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. This will force the hoop part 
within the proper position. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The 
length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Use a bone 
2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones for each side of 
the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure. 
The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi ' ncn of the point ot 
the dart. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. Co.vered and ever ready 
steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. A nice 
finish for the bones is to feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using 
some pretty contrasting color. 

Now put the waist together, joining the front to the under arm shape, begin- 
ning at the waist line and pinning up. Then pin down from the waist line. 
Baste- the same as the other seams from the waist line up and down. Now join 
the shoulder, stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back 
and pin and baste with the front towards you. The back shoulder can be put 
on full, should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. Press 
well. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish 
the same as other seams. 

Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line and measure the waist 
and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure. 



Pin the waist lines together aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired. 
Prepare the canvass for the bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 l /, inches deep, 
stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Then turn up canvas 
and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining, this will 
make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. Now cut the facing 
bias I y? to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, stretching so as to shape smoothly to 
the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling. Turn the upper 
edge in and fell with a light stitch, being careful not to catch through the lining. 



Measure the neck of the dress and add 3^ inch to the measure and draft collar 
according to instructions. Use tailor canvas for foundation. It the canvas is 



Side Plaiters 

French Accordion 
Button Making and 

Pinking Machines 

These moulds are manufactured in the 
following widths ready for use. Prices as 
follows: 

12 inches wide, 9 yds long in frame $3.50 
18 " " 9 " " " 5.00 

24 " " 9 " " " 7.50 

36 " " 9 " " " 12.00 

48 " "9 " " " 18.00 

These machines will plait any kind of 
material. 

We furnish a full instruction sheet with 
each machine. 

Order direct from the 

VIENNA INSTITUTE 
5 West 14th Street, N. Y. City, U. S. A. 



used double, then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Fn 
the canvas on the material and cut j£ inch larger all around. Cut the lining the 
same size. Now baste the canvas on the material and fold over the edge and 
baste to the canvas. Catch down to the canvas with a long stitch without catch- 
ing through. 

Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back. Then pin 
around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. Place the hooks 
on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. 
Turn in the edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down. 

A waist is never finished without a belt, as that holds it firmly in position, if 
put in properly. Cut the belt 2 inches longer than the waist measure and finish 
off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook 
and eye so that the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre 
seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line. 
Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams. 

HOOKS AND EYES. 

Fold the lining on line A and stitch % inch from the edge. First mark for 
hooks and eyes, placing them I inch apart. Spread the rings in both hook and 
eye % inch apart, this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. Sew the 
hook to the inside, with the bill even with the stitched line. Sew through each 
ring three times, then over each branch, then under the bill, near line A- Now 
place the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line A- 
Sew through the rings the same as the hook, and then at each side of the bow. 
Sew on alternatively until even with the top of. the darts. Then all hooks on 
the right side, face with lining 1 inch deep. 

SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS. 

Place the lining on the material, having the warp in each running the sami 
way (the diagram shows the sleeve running the right way). Pin the lining on 
before cutting. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up, then place the lining 
on the cloth right side up, pin the lining on easy, baste through the center of the 
sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch, then baste in the traced lines, beginning 
at dot 5» ar >d baste up and down, using a y-i inch stitch. Baste the outside 
seam in the same manner, then baste top and bottom. 

Baste the under part in the same manner. Join by placing dots 5 together 
and pin up and down in the tracing. Fold the top of the sleeve down, having 
dot 2 me et the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9- Pin up and down to 
within 1 y 2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about |/£ mc ^ w hich must be eased 
in to the elbow. Baste in the tracing with a ^ inch stitch, with the upper 
part next to you. First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the 
basting, with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Remove the 
basting from the seams. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front 
seam at dot 5 an d 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. Round off the 
notches and press over a curved seam bound. Seams can be overcast or bound 
to correspond to the waist. Face the bottom the same as the waist. Place a 
notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam. 
Gather between the notches y4 > nc h from the'end. Place the sleeve in, holding 
it towards you, pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the 
last dart. Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the front 
seam to the notch easy. Draw up the gathers, giving the most fullness at the 
top. Baste with a small stitch. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a 
firm back stitch. Trim off and overcast. Shields should be tacked lightly 
through the tape. Never place the needle through the rubber. The fullness 
in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow 
(see dotted lines), or it can be gathered for about z inches under the point of 
the elbow. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT. 

Draft the skirt linings according to instructions. Place the goods on the table 
right side up and see that they are perfectly smooth. Place the fold of the front 
linin g even with the fold of the goods, bottom at the lower end of goods, and 



SKIRT RULE 

In order to obtain perfection in 
stitching skirts you should have a 
skirt rule about 45 inches long, in 
order to give a perfectly straight seam. 
These rules are marked in inches 
both ways. If you expect to do 
perfect work you must have good 
tools. 

The price is 95 cents. 



IMPORTED FRENCH 
SILVERED STEEL 

When a less expensive stay than a 
whalebone is desired we would advise 
the French watch spring silvered 
steels. They give perfect satisfaction 
to our customers. They are very 
flexible and strong. 

We prepay postage except in gross 
lots. Price, per dozen properly as- 
sorted, 25 cents; by the gross $2.00. 



pin firmly, then cut the goods. In cutting the side gores place the straight edge 
of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. Cut the 
other gores in the same manner ; always see that the thread of the lining and 
the thread of the goods run the same way. Cut the stiffening to match each 
separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of 
the goods. This can be cut any desired width ; from I o to 1 8 inches is best. 
The stiffening can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3 or 4. 
inches long. Now stitch across the top without turning in. Then pin the out- 
side material on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come be- 
tween the lining and the goods. Baste through the center of the front with a 
1 )A inch stitch, beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom 
of skirt, then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge, beginning at the top and 
basting down and across the bottom. Baste the remaining parts in the same 
manner. 

Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the 
seam down '4 inch from the edge. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch 
the bias edge. Now baste, using a '^ ' ncn stitch. It is absolutely necessary 
to have all seams perfectly straight, and to do this it is best to have a long straight 
rule (about 45 inches), and mark a line just outside of the basting to guide the 
stitching. Stitch with the bias side down next to the feed, stitching one side 
up, the other down. Remove the basting and trim the seam evenly ready for 
hinding or overhanding. 

Pressing. — Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material 
when pressing, as it is quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron ; 
open the seam well before placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when 
pressing so as to give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on 
the table. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Now 
pin the corresponding seams together at the top, then the center of the back, 
draw each seam down evenly and pin at the bottom. Take tape measure and 
measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and 
mark. Now measure down the first seam y inch more than the skirt measure 
and mark, measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark. 
The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer 
than the skirt measure ; make the remaining part of the skirt the same length. 
When the back measure is shorter than the front, the difference should be taken 
from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. Trim the 
bottom of the skirt y inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the 
bottom y^ inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being careful that the 
stitch does not come through. (If a facing is desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches 
deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much 
fullness at the top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and 
fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the bottom, fold the 
velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop y£ inch below 
the edge of the skirt, then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. 

Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to 
the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. The 
facing can be about 1 l A inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. Cut 
the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure, making it 1 inch wide. Turn 
in the band 'X inch on each end, mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end. 
Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the 
front, pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. The back can be 
either gathered or plaited ; sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or 
two large hooks and eyes. Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt. 

THE FRENCH METHOD. 

The French method to finish a skirt is to seam the cloth and lining separately, 
taking care to make the seams in both cloth and lining the same. Press the 
seams in the lining open. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom, 
having it run the same thread as the lining, cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep 
(always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening.) Shrink hair cloth and 
linen before cutting. When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be 
strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the 





hair cloth. The upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a 
narrow bias strip, this should be basted on very carefully, holding the hair cloth 
easy so as to prevent stretching. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the 
wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining. If canvas, stitch to the 
lining i^ inch from the edge. If hair cloth, stitch through the binding. Press 
the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Place 
the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining. 
Pin the center at the top and then at the seams, each side. Now smooth the 
cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. Baste down the 
center of front with a i inch stitch, then each side seam, and finish the balance 
of the skirt in the same manner, being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient 
to make the lining easy. Now pare off the cloth at the back seam even with 
the lining and join the back seam lining and cloth together, leaving 9 or 10 
inches open at the top for placket. Finish the balance of skirt as per previous 
instructions. 

DROP SKIRT. 

A drop skirt is made by seaming the material and lining separately. When 
silk lining is used (which is' most desirable for a drop skirt) it should be cut from 
8 to 1 2 inches shorter than the skirt length (according to the width of knife 
pleating used. ) It will require three times the width of the skirt for knife 
pleating. When ruffles are used cut the skirt the full length, allowing 2 inches 
tor hem. The outside material should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the 
actual skirt length to allow tor hem, which should be blind stitched over. (See 
instructions for blind stitching.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according 
to previous instructions. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in 
plaits or gathers as desired. To make a clean finish, place a seam binding on 
Hat to cover the unfinished edge, stitching on both edges to the band. 

A drop skirt should always be fitted before finishing, as it is apt to sag around 
the hips and back. 

VERY ERECT FORMS. 

Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have a narrow back in propor- 
tion to their bust measure. Take a width of back measure, starting at the center 
of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the 
arm hole or where the arm hole should come, and use this measure instead of 14, 
of the bust measure given in the instructions, to locate dot 12- For instance 
take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure, if the width of back was 6, this would 
indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. 
Draft line E fr° m dot 2 to dot 5- In drafting the front take the difference 
between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the 
back) which is 6. Now take 2/ 3 of 6, which is 4, added to 42, makes 46. 
Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. 

FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM. 

Use the instructions for very erect forms and make the following additional 
changes. When the front measure is 2 inches longer than the back, draft line 
E (in the back) from dot 2 to dot 5. draft line B (> n the side form) beginning 1 
inch below dot 4- Make line A ln the under arm form the same length as line 
B in the side body. Measure up from dot 3) > n the under arm form) I inch 
less than the under arm measure and place dot 7» an d draft line B> extending I 
inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front, lower the points of the darts 1 inch 
and draft line K with the yi mark, curve in. The diagram will show the cor- 
rect draftings. 



If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking 
measure in drafting, basting, or by a mistake on the part of the worker. 

Always measure for draftings before tracing and cutting your linings. Do not 
neglect this. 



Grean 

Designer of Liadies' 
Costumes 

Models for the Trade 
And COSTUMES TO ORDER 

No. 19 East 33d Street 

NEW YORK 
Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue 



' X ifie waist, draw it in proper position on the form, then fasten down 
. 5 "iiit and see it there we any changes necessary. 

If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck, it is probably caused by a too 
long back measure. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness 
from the back, this will necessitate the cutting off" of about Y 2 inch from line (J- 
If the waist, draws to one side it is because the center back seam was not joined 
evenly. Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the 
basting is directly in the tracing. Should the front of the waist bind across the 
bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. Let out the under 
arm seam — in most cases that will answer. When the waist is loose over the 
bust, the front measure has been taken too long. Open the shoulder seam and 
draw up the front to fit. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the 
shoulder seams. If the arm's eye gaps in front, it is because the lining has been 
stretched. Take a small dart in the lining and then draw the outside material 
smooth over the lining and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam. 
To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when 
the basting is done. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining 
being drawn too tight in seaming. Remove the basting and draw the material 
tight over the lining. For a French bias dart, fold a small plait in the lining at 
the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods. 

Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the 
side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. It will be neces- 
sary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form 
and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form. 

Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv 
the back seam of the dart being stretched. This side ot the dart should always 
be basted in easy. 

Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on 
machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Fullness on the shoulder, 
near the neck, is caused by high shoulders. (See instructions to locate the 
height of shoulders.') Open the seam at the point of shoulder, this will allow 
the waist to drop and remove the fullness. This change will necessitate an 
alteration in the curved seam joining the back. 

To Avoid Alterations. — Be very careful in taking the measure. See that the 
drafting is properly done and basted carefully in the traced lines. Read in : 
structions for basting and stitching with care and you will seldom have 
alterations. 

Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient 
layers of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. Draw out some ot the 
cotton at the edges to make it thin, then tack the lining, using an inch stitch, 
catching the lining very lightly. These pads can be lined if desired. 

When one shoulder is lower than the other use a pad to make it correspond 
with the high one. When one hip is high pad the other side. For a flat 
bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to 
enlarge. When a woman has a full bust, and hollow next to the arm, use a 
pad tacked under the shield. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING. 

To obtain the most satisfactory results it is necessary to select an all wool 
cloth (not dress goods) with a sufficient body to permit ot its being shaped to 
the form with the iron. You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths, some 
will need much more pressing than others. All cloths for tailoring must be 
sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. The most simple and effective 
way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin y 2 yard 
longer than the cloth to be sponged. Wet it thoroughly and wring out well. 
Lay the muslin over the table, place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the 
fold) y 2 yard from the end of muslin. Fold the end of muslin over the end of 
cloth and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours, as it 
must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. After removing the goods from 
sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long 
and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron, placing 
a cotton cloth over tbe goods to prevent scorching, be sure that the cloth is 







thoroughly dry before cutting, as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry. 
(i C thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth t 




S ' $ y \ N • \ 

mm 




It is best 
light or medium weight cloth to use a soft 
cambric interlining in coat or jacket. (See waist instructions for tracing, cut- 
ting and basting. ) it is well, particularly for those inexperienced, to fit the 
jacket before stitching. Use a tailor linen canvas for the front in the place ot 
interlining, which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before 
using. Cut the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions, including 
the reveres. Baste the dart in the canvas, then join the front at the under arm 
seam and shoulder with the seams out, including the dart seam and shape the 
canvas perfectly to the form. This will require judgment, as a great deal of the 
fine work comes in here. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas at the 
shoulder, or to place a V in according to the figure. ' (Lap all seams in canvas.) 
Place a dart in the arm's eye. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the 
waist line, from the dart to the under arm seam; cut and lap the seam. Cut 
and lap the regular dart seam, it will be necessary to use an extra-thickness of 
canvas, beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending 
to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. When an extra foundation is 
required, an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added (see diagram 
for the shape of both.) Begin stitching at the point of dart, going around in 
circles about % inch apart (see dotted lines in diagram. ) The canvas is now- 
ready to be pressed into shape. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness 
is to be removed (use a hot iron.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open. 
Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. (See instructions for 
making pockets). 

Take the cloth and smooth it out over the canvas, basting in traced lines with 
£ inch stitch. Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder, with a i/ inch 

stitch. Stretch the cloth over the canvas each side of the 

down line A and around the 

across the shoulder. 



<i inch stitch. 

, viiiii a y^ 

e basting, and pin 
arm's eye and down the under arm seam, then 
Baste up line A and around the neck, then on the shoulder 
in traced lines and around the arm's eye y^ inch from the edge and in the traced 
lines down the under arm seam. Baste up the front and around the revere 3/± 
inch from the edge, and the full length of the front, each side of the dart. After 
stitching the back seams on the wrong side, trim the seam of the lining close to 
the stitching and press the seams open over a curved seam board. The cloth 
front must be made to fit the linen foundation perfectly. When the cloth is 
tight over the canvas dampen and stitch to fit. Remove all fullness over the 
canvas by pressing, using a wet cloth and hot iron. ( See pressing.) 

Place an extra strip of canvas on the left side, 1 inch from the edge, to form a 
stay for the buttons. 

Crease the revere, beginning on line (J, half wav between dots 2 and 3, 
ceasing it down as far as you may desire. The canvas should be slightly eased 
on the cloth before padding to permit the reveres to roll over in position. The 
padding should be done by sewing a % inch stitch on the outside of the canvas 
aid catching the cloth with invisible stitches the full shape of the revere, leaving 
V2 inch at the edge (see diagram.) Baste a )4 inch tape around the revere 
and down the front, holding the edge easy to the tape, this will hold the revere 
in shape and give a firm edge. ( See instructions for pressing. ) Draft the 
collar according to instructions. . Cut the canvas K inch larger all around the 
co'lar. Cut four pieces of cloth the same size as the canvas and join the back 
of the canvas and cloth for collar and facing separately. Press the seams open, 
b«fp the canvas on the cloth easy (see dotted lines in the diagram for creasing.) 
Stitch with the canvas up in the dotted lines, stitching the balance towards the 
edge that joins the neck % inch apart. 

Pad the collar the 'same as revere, beginning at the left end and going back 



within 1/ inch of the edge and end of collar. ( See pressing. ) 
ot the collar to the center of the back (canvas up) and baste 



and forth 

Place the center 

a--ovrd each side to line A- Stitch a 3,i inch seam and press open. Baste 

around the fold of the collar and down the fold of the revere with an overhand 

stitch to prepare for pressing (see instructions for pressing) . The facing must 

be cut ) inch longer than the front, to allow for easing, and to extend from the 

ovtes :f the shoulder to the front of the dart, continuing straight down the 

length of the coat. Notch the facing at line A in the neck and also at dot 3. 

Join the collar facing to the revere facing from line A to within 1 % inches of 



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dot 3 on the shoulder. See that the collar facing extends below line A the same 
distance that the collar is below line A on the jacket. Shape the bottom ot the 
coat the length desired. Cut a bias piece of canvas 3 inches deep and stretch to 
fit the coat at the bottom and baste in. Turn up the bottom of coat }4 inch 
deep. Trim out each seam to prevent bulk. After pressing the fold in the collar 
and revere, arrange the facing by placing the back seam in the collar right side 
of facing to cloth, placing edge of facing yi i ncn outside of the edge of coat; 
basting the cloth easy to collar. See that the seam that joins the revere and col- 
lar together are placed over the corresponding seam in the jacket, then baste the 
facing along the revere, easy to the break, then quite full for 3 or 4 inches 
to prevent tightness over the break. Continue basting, holding the facing 
easy to the end. To stitch, place on the machine, facing down, and seam 
y£ inch on canvas all around. Trim the canvas close to the seam; trim 
the cloth a trifle wider than the canvas and trim the facing a trifle wider than 
the cloth, this will avoid a heavy seam. When basting over the edge of facing, 
baste with strong cotton and a small stitch, working out the edge of cloth even 
with the edge of facing with the fingers, also see that the corners are turned out 
well. Remove the basting when the roll has been pressed. Arrange the facing 
over the creased roll in the collar and revere and baste with an overhand stitch. 
Basie down the front of facing with a catch stitch to hold the facing in position 
on the canvas (see pressing.) Stitch the edge to correspond with the stitching 
on the pocket. Place the button holes on the right side (see instructions for 
making button holes and putting on buttons') . 

See Instructions for Cutting, Basting and Pressing Sleeves. — Open the back 
seam from 6 to 8 inches from the wrist up. Cut the canvas on the bias, from 
2 /4 to 5 inches deep and baste even with the bottom of the sleeve. Stitching 
at the upper part of canvas to correspond with stitching in the coat. Join the 
sleeve and turn in the bottom yi mc h and catch to canvas. See instructions 
for pressing. 

FLAP POCKET. 



The flap is to be lined with soft canvas or heavy silesia. Cut the lining 4 ]/, 
by 2^4 inches. Cut two pieces of cloth (running the same thread as the goods), 
one for the flap and one for the facing, which should be \£ inch larger all 
around. Baste the small piece of cloth on the lining for flap and round off the 
lower front corner. Cut the back end of the flap, beginning 3 3 inch from the 
end and slanting to the lower corner. Baste the flap to the facing, stitch y^ 
inch from the edge all around (omitting the top), with the canvas up. Trim the 
canvas close to the seam, the cloth a shade larger than the canvas and the facing 
a shade larger than the cloth. Turn the facing over, rolling the edge slightly 
towards you and baste. Baste across the center part of flap and stitch the edge 
to compare with the coat. Press over a damp cloth. Cut two pieces of lining 
4 by 6 inches, place the flap to the marked line on the coat, the lower edge up, 
the facing out. Baste with a y± inch stitch yi mcn h" " 1 the bottom edge. 
Baste one piece of lining close to the edge of flap tor pocket. Stitch the flap 
with a yl inch seam fastening well at each end. Stitch the lining in the same 
manner with a yfo inch seam. Cut the pocket, starting in the center and cut- 
ting to within y^ inch from the ends and mitre the corner to the upper seam. 
Cut the canvas from the back of the seam and turn the flap down and baste 
on the seam at the right side. Trim the lining in the opening and baste down. 
Take the other part ot lining and baste to the back of the upper seam. Stitch 
across the upper edge of flap on the right side for a finish, it will also seam the 
lining. Shape the pocket lining on the wrong side. A bar tack should be 
placed on each end of the pocket. Place a damp cloth on the wrong side and 
press heavy. For 1 5 cents we will send a cambric model ot any pocket, 
seamed and cut. 



SILK LINING COAT. 



Cut the silk lining for front large enough to allow a plait 1 inch deep, which 
is placed from the top of the shoulder to. dart for ease. The back can be 'lit 
with or without a seam, allowing for a plait 3/£ inch deep for ease. The under 
arm shape and side forms are cut the same as the draftings (all parts of the lining 



To Match Stripes, Plaids, Figures 
and Diagonals. 

Be careful in drafting your linings. 
Cut the back first. Now take the 
back and match it perfectly on the 
goods, both faces up. Now take 
the lining and replace it on the back 
being careful to have it exact, and do 
not move the goods. Take the side 
body lining and place line A directly 
over line K in the back, being care- 
ful to have the waist lines even. 
Now pin the side body lining fast and 
remove the back and cut the side 
body, being very careful not to move 
it. The whole secret is to match 
the sewing lines. Follow this rule 
in matching the other parts. 



should be cut )i inch higher at the top and I inch longer at the bottom and all 
curved seams should be clipped.) Fold a plait in the center of the back and 
press to keep in position. Pin the lining to the center back at the waif line ; 
ease the lining up the back, keeping the fold in the center by pinning every 3 
or 4 inches. Pin line K in the same manner, then pin the shoulder and down 
the arm's eye. Pin the lining in position beiow the waist line. Ttr^. the lining 
to the seam of the shoulder and to the seams on line K- P' n the siae form on, 
beginning in the center at the waist line and pinning every 3 or 4 inches up the 
center. Crease the lining even with line K, and pin and baste to the seam ready 
for felling. Baste line A to the seam, allowing )£ inch fullness across the form. 
Pin in position below the waist line. Baste the under arm shape in the same 
manner. Shape the dart in the lining to fit the coat ; pin the lining at the top 
or the dart, then across each side of the dart. Fold the plait in from the top ot 
the dart to the shoulder. Begin at the underarm seam and pin aiound the arm's 
eye across the shoulder and down the front as far as the top of the dart. Pin 
down from the point of the dart to the waist line. Notch the seam at the waist 
line and 2 inches above and pin down below the waist line. Finish pinning down 
the front. Pin across the bottom, easing the lining up about \i inch. Pin up 
the under arm seam 1 inch in from line E- Crease the lining at line A an d P' 11 
and baste. Crease the shoulder at line Q and pin. Crease and pin the lining 
from the back to shoulder, down the front and around the bottom. Basle, 
keeping, the edge even. Fell all seams and the edge neatly. 

Instructions for Basting Sleeve. — Stitch' the seams y( inch inside of the 
basting. Notch the inside seam and press open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out. 
Turn the lining right side out. Slip the lining on the sleeve, placing the seams 
together, leaving the lining ^ inch longer at the bottom. Tack the lining at 
the seams 3 or 4 inches apart. Fold in the lining to within 'g inch of the bot- 
tom of the sleeve. Turn the sleeve right side out and place basting arourtd the 
sleeve about 3 inches from the top. Place the sleeve in the same as waist 
(omitting the lining) and press. Place the lining of coat over the seam and 
tack. Crease in the sleeve lining ■ _. inch and pin at the back and front seam. 
Arrange the fullness around the top and pin in position all around and fell. 



TO SEW ON BUTTONS. 



Fold the right side over the left. See that the waist lines meet and that the 
reveres are even at the top and that the buttonholes are directly over the stay. 
Place a pin through the first end of each buttonhole to the opposite end. Re- 
move the button holes from the pins. Place the button at the first pin mark. 
Use linen thread or twist double in sewing a button on. Buttons having holes 
should be sewed on loosely. Instead of making a knot in the thread, take a 
small stitch in the cloth, catching the stay and being careful not to catch the 
facing. To form a shank draw up the button and twist the thread around twice 
very tight between the button and cloth. Take a stitch across the twisted thread 
and back through the cloth. Twist again and fasten the thread with two or 
three stitches through the shank and cloth. Cut the thread close to the shank. 
When covered buttons are used sew through the shank, firmly taking a small 
stitch in the cloth, always catching the stay and fasten the same as in the previ- 
ous instructions. Buttons with wire shanks should be attached by piercing a 
small hole and placing the shank of the button through, having it run Parallel 
with the button hole. Finish on the under side with a shank ring oi hea.'/ 
thread. When buttons are to be used as a trimming thev should be sewed on 
without forming a shank. 



To do pressing successfully it is absolutely necessary to have the proper 
implements. A curved seam board, a large pressing board about 36 inches long 
and 20 inches wide (for skirts.) A large and a small Dad and a sleeve pad and 
a set of regular tailoring irons (for 50 cents we will sc.id a pattern of the curved 
seam board and pads with instructions for making.) / 

All canvas used in tailoring work must be shrunk. Thoroughly dampen w\C: 




99 



a sponge and press lengthwise until dry over a large pressing board. Never 
press a curved seam over a straight surface or a straight seam over a curved seam 
board. Place the seams over the seam board perfectly smooth and dampen the 
full length of the seam with a sponge. Press slowly and carefully, bearing well 
■in the iron to make a flat seam. All coats should have the edges and reveres 
stayed with a narrow strip of linen or tape on the wrong side and it should be 
put on tight when shrinking is necessary. Dampen well with sponge and press 
the edges in the shape required. 

All pressing should be done on the wrong side, except the finished pressing- 
Take the collar and dampen at both edges and stretch thoroughly by pressing 
with a hot iron, being careful not to press out of shape. Place the collar on the 
board, the stitched side up. Dampen well with sponge. Hold one end of the 
collar up and press in the form of a hoop, so as to obtain a round effect. 
Dampen the revere along the fold and press in the same manner. (Use this 
instruction after facing the collar and revere.) Do not press the fold of the col- 
lar or revere fiat in any stage of the pressing. 

To press the facing on a coat, take a strip of wet muslin and place over the 
edge of the facing and press. Remove the damp cloth and finish pressing over 
a dry cloth | continue, including the collar and revere. Before placing the 
lining in the bottom of the sleeve the seams should be well pressed again. 
For a finished pressing, the sleeve should be slipped over the pad shaped for 
that purpose. Wet a cloth and wring out well and place over the sleeve and 
press with a hot iron, using judgment to press it into the proper shape. It is 
often necessary to press over several times before obtaining satisfactory results 
(It depends greatly on the kind of material.) When the sleeve is stitched in 
the seam must be pressed open over the end of the curved seam board. The 
finished pressing of the coat should be done over the large pad. The entire 
coat should be pressed, using a wet cloth and hot iron in order to remove all 
creases and give a fine finish. . 

To remove shine caused by pressing, use a thoroughly wet cloth and a very 
hot iron. Place the coat over the pad, lay the wet cloth lightly over the shine, 
hold the hot iron near the wet cloth with the right hand, with the left hand raise 
the wet cloth against the iron, this will force the steam directly on the shine. 
Nevr allow the weight of the iron on the cloth. 



BUTTON HOLES. 







Muslin 




Tailor 



For practice use a No. 7 needle and No. 40 thread and two or more thick- 
nesses of cotton cloth basted together. 

Cut the button hole (which should be a little larger than the diameter of the 
button ) with button hole scissors. 

Then place the strip of cloth over the fore fingers of the left hand, holding it 
in position with the thumb and second finger. Hold the end of the thread near 
the folded edge. See diagram No. pp. 

Insert the needle from the underside 3 or 4 threads from the edge and inside 
end of the hole. Draw the needle through ; insert the needle, point from you, 
at the outside end of the button hole, the same distance from the edge of hole as 
in first instructions, taking up an equal number of threads from the opposite side. 
Draw the needle through and repeat at the inside end, the point of the needle 
towards you. Go over this instruction the second time, this forms the bar for 
the button hole. 

. Overcast the button hole, being careful to hold the barring near the edge. 
Take this stitch % inch apart, taking care to include the bar. When finished 
overcasting begin button hole stitch. Insert the needle in the right hand end 
(in muslin begin at the left end) of the button hole, point towards you, taking 
stitch the same depth as in overcasting. Draw the needle and thread through. 
Insert the needle again, a thread or two from the first stitch, pushing the needle 
half way through. Now throw the thread under the point from right to left. 
Draw the needle and thread out at right angles with the slit, the twist coming at 
the top edge of the slit. Continue in this manner, being careful to take the 
Pitches evenly. In turning the end take 7 or 8 stitches and work the other side 
.0 the end. Now insert the needle through the first button hole stitch, draw 
.1.^ it through and bringing it out on the opposite side. Where the side and the 



£ 



:- ■* ■■-; 



/ 



^S^ @L ^52^ 








■°3 




105 







; / //„„: / / // ts/ // ''fa -^ 



#2 4 '■ M 



///AA, " 



barring meet, repeat the stitch twice, then hold the thread under the left thumb. 
Place the needle under the end of the bar, taking up a couple of threads. .Re- 
peat in the middle and at the other end of the bar, drawing the thread through 
and finishing on the wrong side. Diagram No. 100 shows the different button 



THREAU NEEDLES. 

Thread 20, 24 and 30, use No: 5 needle 

Thread 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle. 

Thread ;o and 60, use No. 7 needle. 

Thread 70 and 80, use No. 8 needle. 

Thread 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle. . 

The size of the thread to be used depends upon the quality of the work. 

To make a knot hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first fin- 
ger of the right hand, wind the thread once around the end of finger, twist the 
end twice into the loop with the thumb. With the middle finger pull the loop to 
the end. 

Place the thimble on the second finger ot the right hand. Hold the needle 
between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand, the eye of the needle on 
the thimble; press the needle gently between thumb and fore finger. 



Always pin carefully before basting. * ( If the materials are silk or velvet, use 
needles instead of pins). 

Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needles (sharps.) In learning to baste take 
only one stitch at a time. Careful basting prevents the seam or goods from 
puckering. In even basting make the stitch about l / 2 inch long on either side, 
this way of basting is used for seams of dress waists and where two or more 
thicknesses of material is used. Uneven basting is mostly used over large 
surfaces and skirt seams and as a guide for stitching. Take 1 inch long on 
upper side and jj£ inch on lower. 

Diagrams Nos. 101 and 102 shows even and uneven basting. 

BACK STITCH. 

Use No. 50 tnread and No. 7 needle. Hold the material over the left tore 
finger, holding it in place with the thumb and second finger. Insert the needle 
from right to left, pushing the needle nearly through. Draw the needle out 
with the thread running between the third and little finger. Repeat, taking up 
a little of the cloth with the needle, according to the size of stitch desired. 
Fasten the end by taking two other stitches over the last stitch. 

Diagram No. 103 shows the proper stitch. Diagram No. 104 shows a halt 
back stitch. 



106 



RUNNING STITCH. 

Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needle. Hold the material between the 
thumb and fore finger of the left hand. Take even stitches the same as even 
basting, only smaller. Begin at the right hand corner and take stitch over tore 
finger. This stitch is used when there is no. great strain on .the seam, and it is 
also used as'a gathering stitch for ruffles and tops of skirts. 

Diagram No. 105 shows stitch on cloth. 

RUNNING BACK STITCH. 

Take up two or more yi inch stitches on the needle at one time witn ■/% inch 
space between. Repeat beginning in the middle of the last stitch. 

A running back stitch is used when you require a stronger seam than tor a 
running stitch. 
- Djagiani ^o. I ob shows a running back stitch. 




1 07 




108 




I 09 





To form a hem, turn the edge of the material J^ inch and crease, then fold 
the width of hem desired and baste near the edge of the first fold (on woolen or 
soft materials baste the first narrow fold also. ) Hold the hem over the first fin- 
ger ot the left hand, holding it in place with the thumb and second finger. In - 
sert the needle in the edge of fold, point from you, y± inch from the end of 
hem, taking up two or three threads. Pull the needle through, holding the end 
ot the thread under the thumb. Now place the needle through the end of the hem, 
needle pointing towards the left shoulder; take up two or three threads of the 
cloth and the same of the fold. Continue taking the size stitch desired, being 
careful to make the stitches even. In starting a new thread, place the end 01 
the previous thread under the hem and start as beginning. Always cut, never 
break the thread. To fasten at the finish take two or three stitches over the last 
one taken. 

Diagram No. 107 shows the stitch needle in position. 

OVERHANDINC. 

To overnand is to join the edges of cloth together, the edge can be selvedge 
or creased fold. 

Use a No. 70 thread and No. 8 needle. Hold the material along the edge 
and around the end of the left fore finger, keeping it in place with the thumb 
and second finger. In starting the seam, hold the two ends between the thumb 
and fore finger, inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and M inch from 
the end. Draw the needle through, holding the end of the thread under the 
thumb. Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to 
you, the needle pointing towards you. Draw the needle through and place it 
through both ends of goods, taking -up two or three threads of the cloth. Make 
the stitch close and regular. 

Diagram No. 108 shows an overhand seam with needle in position. 

OVERCASTING. 

Overcasting is done bv taking a slanting stitch over the raw edge of goods to 
prevent ravelling. 

Use No. 70 thread and a No. 8 needle. Trim the edges neatly before 
overcasting. Begin at the left hand end of the seam. Hold the work over the 
fore finger of the left hand. Take a slanting stitch J<fj inch deep and }£ inch 
apart as shown in diagram No. 109. Continue in this manner, being careful to 
make the stitch even. Do not make the stitch tight. 

GATHERING. 

A gathering stitch is to take up several stitches on the needle having the space 
and stitch equal size, or the space can be double the size of the stitch. 

Use No. 40 thread and No. 7 needle. If for a skirt, first fold and mark the 
center of the front. Take thread the length of l / 2 the width of skirt at top 
Insert the needle on the wrong side and run an even stitch to the center of the 
front. Gather the other side in like manner, beginning at the center of front 
around to the back. Draw up the thread to the size of the band and fasten 
around a pin. 

In using a double gathering be careful to. have the stitch directly under the 
first. Double gathering is generally used on woolen materials and long stitches 
should be taken if there is much fullness. 

Diagrams Nos. 1 10 and I I 1 shows single and double gathering. 

Diagram No.. 1 1 2 shows gathering inserted in the band. 

Diagram No. I I 3 shows gathering overhanded to the band. 



Shirring is done by making several rows of gathering directly under each 
other. Mark the required number or rows at the desired distance from each 
other. The gathering can be drawn up on the threads or bv cords run between 
he rows. 

Diagram No. 1 14 shows the shirring and stitch. 



I I I 




LI 2 




FELL. 



A fell is a seam hemmed down and is used principally for underwe»-. 

Join the seam to be felled 3 /& inch deep with a running back stitcn. Pea' ^ 
y 2 of the seam next to you. Fold the seam towards you, turning under yi of 
the broad seam to make a narrow hem. The fell can also be made by placing 
the inner edge }i inch below the other. 

Diagram No. 1 1 5 shows a fell with needle in position. 



FRENCH SEAM. 



A French seam is made by taking a very narrow seam with the wrong sides 
of the materials together. Place the edges evenly, taking a small seam with a 
running stitch, and then turn the wrong sides towards vou. Fold the right sides 
together and crease at the seam, then stitch second seam with a halfback stitch, 
so that the raw edges are enclosed. 



jJLIND OR SLIP STITCH. 

This stitch is used for fastening the roiled and invisable hem to attach folds to 
garments, also the milliner's fold. For invisable hem take up one or two threads 
of the cloth and before drawing the needle out, take up 1^ inch of the edge of 
the fold. 

In making a rolled hem and attaching folds to garments, the needle is so 
placed that the inside section of the outside is caught to the under pieces. 

Ficure No. 1 shows an ordinary catch stitch used to fasten down edges. 
The stitch is worked from right to left. The needle is set for a stitch in the 
uppe. row and then for a similar stitch in the lower row. See diagram .leedle 
in position. 





Figure No. 5 shows the same stitch used to finish a hem. 

Figure No. 3 shows a single feather stitch. This is also known as a herring 
bone or briar stitch. This stitch is worked lengthwise. Start from the right, 
then to the left, keeping an even line. See diagram needle in position. 

Figure No. 4 shows the same stitch applied to a hem. The latter is turned 
to the right side and finished with the stitching. See diagram needle in position. 

Figure No. 2 represents a double feather stitch. This is used when a more 
elaborate stitch is desired. See diagram needle in position. 

Figure No. 7 shows the anchor finished. 

Figure No. 8 shows the Kensington stitch with the needle in position. 

Figure No. 9 shows the chain stitch with the needle in position. 

Ficures No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 show different styles of arrow heads in the 
process of making and finished. 



TO MAKE A CORRECT BIAS. 

Take the corner of the goods and fold over so that the end will be even with 
the edge and crease the bias fold and cut. 

Diagram No. 10 shows bias strips cut and how to join. 



IJ 5 




TUCKING. 

A tuck is a fold made in the material for a trimming. Use No. 7 needle and 
No. 60 thread. 

7 ake a piece of stiff paper 3 or 4 inches long and I inch wide. Cut first 
notch on paper the width of tuck desired. Cut a second notch three times the 
width of tuck from the end of paper, this will allow the rucks to meet. Should 
space be desired between the tucks, the distance required must be added to the 
second notch. Now fold the goods on the line of a thiead at the desired location 
of the tuck. Place the end of paper on the edge of the fold and mark with pencil 
or pin at the first notch. Move the paper 1 inch to the left and mark again and 
continue until tuck is finished. Now baste or stitch the tuck. To make a 
second tuck place the end of the paper on the edge of the first tuck and mark at 
the second notch through the single of the goods same as in first tuck, then crease 
in rhe marked line, then mark a second tuck the same as the first. Now baste 
or stitch the same as first tuck. Continue in this manner until the desired num- 
ber of tucks are finished. 



A plait is a fold generally placed lengthwise of the goods. 

First fold the edge of goods under the width of plait desired. Then measure 
to the left from the edge three times the width of plait. Now fold and bring 
edge back to meet the edge of the under fold and tack at top of plait. Continue 
in this manner for the number of plaits desired. Be careful that the fold is laid 
evenly to the bottom. Tacking each plait to keep in place for pressing (press- 
ing must always be done on the wrong side), this forms a knife plaiting. When 
less fullness is desired a space can be left between the plaits. 

For box plaiting begin at the center, folding the plait under at the right and 
then at the left, the width desired. 

For a double box plait, fold in another plait at each side. Always tack plait 
in fold at the top Co keep in position. Only press when a flat plait is desired. 



Fig. J 




A placket is an opening made in a skirt. The opening is from 5 to 10 
inches long and is usually placed in the center of the back seam. Turn in the 
right side of the opening the width of the seam to the top of the skirt. Fold the 
lining in 14 inch from the edge and fell down to the cloth. Cut the fly I J^ to 
2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than the opening. Turn in the opposite side 
of cloth the same width as the seam. Attach the fly to the under edge of the 
fold and sew it on with a running back stitch. Turn the lining in towards the 
fly and fell down as on the opposite side. Tack the fly across the bottom on 
the wrong side with a back stitch wi f hout catching through. 

A placket in children's cloths shou:d be from 4 to 6 inches long. It is some- 
times formed in the seam- of the garment, or it can be cut in the middle of the 
width. At the right of the opening make a hem 3^ inch wide, the full length. 
At the left make a 1^ inch hem, bringing it to a point at the bottom. Fold the 
right side over on the left hem, forming a plait the width of the large hem. 
Fasten with a small back stitch to the end of the opening. 



A gusset is a piece of cloth cut in the shape of a triangle and used to enlarge, 
and as a stay in an opening at the end of a seam. It can be cut any size 
desired. Take a piece of cloth 2 by^2 inches and fold to form a triangle and 
cut in the fold. Always set a gusset into a seam, never into a rent made by- 
cutting down, as the hem on edge cannot be well finished ready for gussets. 
Put a row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after set in. 








IO 



Velvets and plush should be made with the nap or pile running up. 

Cloths and all other wool fabrics should be made with the nap or pile running 
down. 

Always cut, never tear the goods. 

Clip all selvedges or cut off entirely before sewing. 

Baste velvet with sewing silk, never with cotton or linen thread. 

Hold velvet lightly when sewing. Use an extra piece of velvet, both piles 
together. 

Sponge all woolen cloths before cutting and making up. 

Never piece a skirt at the top to lengthen it. 

Always cut the thread, never break it. 

When taking out stitches pick one out at a time, being careful not to mar or 
soil the work. 

Select thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as it will work lighter. 

The warp threads of a cloth run lengthwise. The filling or woor runs 
crosswise. 

The pile or nap should always run the same way, otherwise the garment will 
look as if two shades had been used. This applies to all changeable goods, 
cashmeres and Henrietta cloths. 

Folds or creases in fabrics must be removed before the material is made up. 

For Henrietta cloths and light weight silks, split a sheet of cotton wadding 
and baste between the lining and goods with the rough side next to the goods. 

Always interline velvet with fine crinoline. 

The slightest deviation from your measure will often spoil the garment. 

In tacking shields care should be taken to catch in the binding, not through 
the rubber. 

Defects in the form should be overcome by padding. 

Naptha or benzine are the best known agents to remove grease spots or soil if 
properly used. Place a piece^of white cotton cloth under the spot or garment 
to be cleaned to prevent stain marks. Apply with a soft piece of white muslin. 
After the spot is removed rub with a dry cloth untiL all dampness is removed. 
Do not have any fire near. 

To remove creases in crapes and velvets, heat a pressing iron hot, place or 
hold it bottom up. Place a wet cloth over the iron and hold the material c?0 e 
down to the wet cloth so that the steam will be forced through. 





BOY'S SHIRT WAIST. 

Draft lines A and B l /z inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A fr° m line 
B, and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


>^ 


"^ 


2 


*# 


*x 


2 3^ 


3 


Neck Size 


8 


9 


IO 


1 1 


I 2 


»3 


•4 


Dot 3 


2 5/6 


*% 


z% 


3 


3^8 


3# 


3->"8 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B fr° m line 

A, and place dot 3- 

Place letter Q on dot 2, and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 6 '., inches on line B from dot 3» an d place dot 4- 

Measure 2*4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place letter A °n dot 3. the edge of" curve on dot 5» and draft line D the 
proportionate length of shoulder. (See table). 

Measure I l / 2 inches less than y% of the arm's eye measure straight down 
from the end of line D and place dot 6. 

Place the short arm of the square on line A. the long arm on dot 6 and draft 
line E straight out 3 inches from dot (}. 

Without moving the square place dot 7 on line A. at the corner of the square. 

Measure 1 >£ inches more than U of" the bust measure on line E from dot 7> 
and place dot 8- 

Measure 1 '^ inches straight up from dot 6 and place dot 9- 

Place letter D on dot 9, and draft line F to dot $$• 

Place the point of curve on dot 9> and extend line F to the end of line J). 

Measure straight down from dot 7 on line A> the length of under arm and 
place dot IfJ- 

Draft line (J straight out from dot 10- 

Measure 1 inch more than )/± of waist measure on line G from dot 10, and 
place dot \\. 

Draft line H from dot 8 to dot H. 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12- 

Measure \\' z inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place letter A on dot H, and draft line J to dot 13- 

Draft line K straight in from dot 13 to line A. 

The dotted lines show the width of plait in front. 

BACK. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B Yx inch from the end of goods. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 

B, and place dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


-'8 


,'/2 


5 /8 


Neck Size 


8 

'-'4 


9 

1 74 


IO 


11 


12 


13 

2 3/8 


>4 


Dot 3 


2 


2'8 


2^ 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A, and place dot 3- 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 6 l A inches on line B from dot 3. and place dot 4- 
1 Measure 1 ;4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 5 and draft line D the pro- 
portionate length of shoulder. 

Measure I Y\ inches less than l /^ of arm's eye measure straight down from 
the end of line D and place dot 6. 

Place the short arm of square on line A> the long arm on dot 6, and draft 
line E ° ut 3 inches from dot 6- 




^ f£\ rg 




Measure i inch more than y£ of" bust measure on line E from line A. and 
place dot 7- 

Place the point of curve ^ inch in from dot 7 on line E, and draft line F 
to the end of line ]). 

Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2, and place dot 8- 

Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9. 

Draft line G from dot 8. to dot 9. 

Measure I # inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8, 
and place dot 10- 

Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. 

Measure 4'- inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Measure )£ inch out from dot H and place dot 12. 

Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12. 

Draft line K straight in from dot 12 to line A. 

Take measure the same as for children and omit taking the front measure. 

MEASURE 8 YEARS. 
Bust _ 2 ; 

"Vaist _ 23 

>ack _ I2 i^ 

Under Arm r 1/ 

Neck , 

Arm's Eye. n 

NECK BAND. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure yi the shirt neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot. 2. 

Draft line C i% inches straight out from dot 2. 

Measure 1 y£ inches on line C from dot 2, and place dot 3. 

Measure zi/^ inches out line B from line A, and place dot 4. 

Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4. 

Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B» and place dot 5, 

Measure |/£ inch on line D from dot 4, and place dot 6. 

Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6. 

Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line F to dot 2. 

Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 3. 

Allow y£ inch for seams on lines F and G. 

BOY'S COAT. 
BACK. 

Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line 
B, and place dot 2. 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


X 


N 


X 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


1 2 


13 


H 


Dot 3 


1 


i)4 


»tf 


i-ys 


*# 


lS/ 8 


aft 


I 7, 8 



Measure vhe distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A. and place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. 

Measure 6 }4 inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 4. 

Measure 3 l/^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 5, and draft line D 1 
inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Measure y£ inch less than y£ of the arm's eye measure straight down from 
the end of line D and place dot 6. 

Measure j£ inch straight in from dot 6 and place dot 7. 



Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line E to the end of line D. 

Measure the length of" back down line A fr° m dot 2, and place dot 8. 

Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9. 

Draft line F straight out from dot 8. 

Measure j£ inch on line F from dot 8. and place dot 10. 

Draft line Q, beginning 6 inches below dot 2 and draft to dot 10. 

Extend line Q to meet line A. 5 inches below dot 8. 

Measure 2 inches less than i^ of waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8. and 
place dot H. 

Place letter Q on dot 7. and draft line H to dot H. 

Draft line J straight out from dot 9. 

Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and H from dot 9» 
and place dot 12- 

Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12. 




B 



BOY'S COAT. 
FRONT. 

Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. 
Draft line B one inch from the end of cloth. 

Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A fr° m '> ne 
and place dot 2- 

XECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


*x 


z% 


^A\ 3 


1% 


V/A 3% 


4 


Neck Size 


7 


8 
4 


9 1 lo 


1 1 


I z 


«3 


'4 


Dot 3 


3# 


4^1 \% 


4^ 


\% 


\Vz 


4?'4 



Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 3 on line B from line 
A> and place dot 3- 

Measure 6 \4 inches from dot 3 on li ne B. and place dot 4. 

Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on dot 5> and draft line C ' 
inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure. 

Place letter Q on the end of line (J, and draft a curved line to dot 3- (See 
diagram) . 

Draft line D straight down from the end of line (J- 

Draft line E I i i inches straight out from dot 2' 

Place letter C on the end of line E. and extend line E to dot 3- 

Measure 2 inches less than l / 2 the arm's eye measure on line A fr° m dot 2. 
and place dot 6- 

Draft line F straight out from dot (J, beginning 6 inches from dot 6- 

Measure 1 3/£ inches less than 'i,' of the chest measure on line F from dot 6. 
and place dot 7- 

Measure the length of under arm measure down line D fr° m nne F> and place 
dot 8. 

Place short arm of square even with line A» the long arm on dot 8» a "d draft 
line G out from line A ' i ncn more than V 3 ' the waist measure a.id place dot 9. 

Place the corner of square on dot 7. the edge on dot 9» and draft line H 
down about 1 8 inches. 

Place the corner of square on dot 9> tne e dge on dot 7» and measure up the 
distance between dot \\ and ^ in the back and place dot 10. 

Place the point cf curv^ on dot 10 and draft a curved line to meet line H 6 
inches below dot 9. 

Measure 1 inch up line D from line F. an d place dot H. 

Measure 1 j4 inches straight in from dot H and place dot 12. 

Place the X point of curve on dot 10, and draft to line F. 

Place the point of curve on dot 12, and draft to the junction of lines F 
and D- 

Place letter K on dot 12 and draft to the end of line (J. 








Measure down line H from dot 9, the distance between dots H and i* m 

the back and place dot 13. ,. , j„„ 

Measure down from dot 8 I inch more more than the distance between dots 

9 Placer ton d l! 4 i3, the ed g e of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to 

^ PlLe" S O hr °pofn h t tit on the end of line J and draft to the junction of 
lines G and A. 

To draft this coat double breasted, follow the dotted lines. Cut the collar 
on the biasot the material. 

BOY'S COAT SLEEVE. 
UPPER SLEEVE. 

Draft line A % in ^ from the edge ot cloth. 

Draft line B ' % inches fr° m the end ot cl ? th ; , „ 

Measure i inch on line A from line B, and place dot 2- 

Measure 2 inches less than the hand measure on line B from hne A. and 

place dot 3- 

Drzft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- . - ,. D „i 

Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on me A from hne B, and 

P ^Measure' V, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure % inch less than % of arm's eye measure straight out from dot 5 

"Ivlt^ , inch more than V 2 the length of sleeve from dot 4 on line A, and 

place dot 7- , „ 

Draft line D 9 inches straight out from dot 7- 
Measure ; U inches down line A from dot 7, and place dot 8 
Measure \% inches more than % of arm's eye measure on hne D from dot 

7, and place dot 9- . . , , j . i i 

Measure . inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5- 

Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8^ 

Place the point of curve on dot 9 and draft line F to dot *. 

Place the point of curve on dot 11 and draft me G to dot 9 - 

Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 1L 

Place letter M on dot 6 and extend line H to dot &. 

Allow ■ Xt inches on the lower end of sleeve for facing. (See diagram ) . 

Mow /inch for seams on lines E and H- Cut on lines F and G- 

UNDER SLEEVE. 

Draft line A % inch from the edge of cloth - 
Draft line B ' % inches from the end ot cloth 
Measure I inch up line A from line B. and place dot 2- 

Measure \ Inches less thin the measure around the hand on hne B rrom hne 
A, and place dot 3 

Draft line C from dot 2> to dot 3- ,. . .- id .,, i 

Measure .inch less than % the length of sleeve on hne A from line B, and 

? Measure •■, inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure l% inches less than % the arm's eve measure straight out from dor 

5 Meat 3 " P;l length of sleeve on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7- 
Measure 2% inches down from dot 7 and place dot 8 
Measure 3/ inch down line A from dot 8, and place dot 9- 
Measure finches less than * the arm's eve measure stra.ghr out from dor 7 

"'plirtht !) pit of curve on dot 9 and draft line D to dot 10- 

Note-To place dot 10 measure % ^ >« s than * ° f arm ' S ^ "^ 
ure eft line D from dot 7 and place dot 10- 




Place the point ot curve on line D z inches rrom dot 9 and draft to dot 8- 
(See diagram). 
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 5- 
Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 8- 
Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q. 
Place letter G on dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3- 

Allow 1 y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. (See diagram). 
Allow J/£ inch seam on lines E and F- Cut on line D- 



BOY'S COAT COLLAR. 




Draft lines A and B J^ ' ncn fr° m the edge and end or goods. 

Measure 3/jj inch on line A f rom une B> and place dot 2- 

Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3- 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch more than l/ 2 of neck measure on line A trom dot 2> and 
place dot 4- 

Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Place letter H or > dot 3 and draft line E to dot 5- 

Measure \i inch out from dot 4 an d draft a slightly curved line to meet line 
A 2 inches from dot 4. 

Line E sews on the coat. Cut the collar on the bias of goods. 

MEASURE FOR BOY 8 YEARS. 

Chest 25 

Waist 23 

Back \z)/ z 

Under Arm 5 ]/ z 

Neck 10 

Arm's Eye 13 

Sleeve. . _ 17 

Hand 7 

Length of Coat 21 



TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY S COAT. 




3t=S=lf 



Chest. — Take this measure around the chest smooth not tight. 

Waist. — Take this measure rather snug. 

Buck. — Measure from the large joint in the back ot the neck to the waistline. 

Under Arm. — Take this measure well up under the arm down to the waist line. 

Arm' 1 Eye. — Take th's measure around over the point of shoulder smooth. 

Neck. — Around the bare neck smooth. 

S/eeve.—¥rom the point of shoulder to wrist. 

Hand. — Around the hand tight. 

BOY'S KNEE PANTS. 

Draft lines A and B '2 i ncn from the edge and end of cloth. 

Measure 3^ inch on line B fr° m line A> and place dot 2' 

Measuie l / 2 inch less than ^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m doc 2» 
and place dot 3- 

Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr° m '> ne B> ar| d place dot 4- 

Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2. 

Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure, and place dot 5. 

Draft line D straight out trom dot 5. 

Measure l A inch on line D from dot 5 a "d place dot 6. 

Measure up line A fr° m dot 5. the inside leg measure, and place dot 7- 
* Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6, extending 1 inch below dot 6- 



Draft line F straight out from dot 7. 

Measure }4 inch less than j{ of the hip measure on line F from dot 7, and 
place dot 8. 

Measure )A inch less than % the measure around the knee from dot 6 and 
place dot 9. 

Measure I inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Draft line G from the end .of" line E to dot 10. 

Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 8. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3. the short arm on line B, and draft line 
J straight down to line F. 

Measure z inches up line J from line F, and place dot H. 

Place letter D on dot 1 1 and draft line K to dot 8. 




BACK. 

Draft lines A and B '_> inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
Measure the distance given in the table (according to waist measure) on line 
A from line B and place dot 2. 



Dot 2 

Waist Measure 



zi/i 



20 21 



^A 



22 23 



*H 



24 25 



26 27 



3/4 



28 29 



Measure 1 % inches more than % of waist measure on line B from line A 
and place dot 3. 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. 
Measure 1 inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. 
Measure I }( inches from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5. 
Measure 3 + ' inch on line C from dot 5, and place dot 6. 

Place the corner of square on dot 6, the edge even with line (J, and draft 
line D down 4^ inches. 

Draft line E from the end of line D to dot 5. 

Measure I % inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 7. 

Place the corner of square on dot 4, the short arm on dot 7 and draft line F 
down the distance of outside leg measure. 

Measure 6 inches down line F from dot 4, and place dot 8. 

Draft line G 1 inch in towards line A from dot 8- 

Draft line H from dot 2 to the end of line G. 

Measure yt. inch less than the outside leg measure on line A from dot 2, and 
place dot 9- 

Draft line J straight out from dot 9. 

Measure the length of inside leg measure up line A from dot 9 and piace dot 

Draft line K straight out from dot 10. 

Measure J^ inch 0.1 line J in from line F, and place dot H. 

Measure 1 inch straight down from dot H and place dot 12. 

Place letter M on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below 
line K. 

Measure \]/ 2 inches more than % of the measure around the hips on line K 
from line F and place dot 13. 

Measure y 2 inch more than y 2 the measure around the knee from dot 1 1 
and place dot 14- 

Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15. 

Draft line Dfl from dot 12 to dot 15. 

Place letter H on dot 15 and draft line N to dot 13. 

Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line K and place dot 16. 

Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. 

Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line to dot 13. 

Extend line Q from dot 17 to dot 3. 



BOY S KNEE PANTS MEASURE. 
8 YEARS. 

Waist . . 24 

Hips 34 

Inside Leg Measure . I o 

Outside Leg Measure 18 

Knee 11^ 





TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS. 

Take the waist measure easy not tight. 

Take the hip measure snug. 

Take the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired. 

Outside leg measure from waist line the length desired. 

Knee. — Around the knee snug. 

MEN'S SACK COAT. 



FRONT. 

Draft lines A an d B l A ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. an d place dot 2- 

Measure l > inch less than ' 2 the neck measure on line B from line A> an d 
place dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 an d ' Ys, inches straight down and place dot 4 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 ar| d pl a ce dot 5- 

Place letter F on dot 5 ar >d draft line C t0 dot 4- 

Place letter C on dot 4 an d draft to dot 3- 

Measure V? of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B> ar, d place dot 6. 

Place letter \J on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches below dot 8- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6 an d draft line B straight out 8 inches, 
beginning 8 inches from dot (j 

Measure 3 \? inches less than \- c of the chest measure on line D fr° m dot Q, 
and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A» a "d measure down 
the length of front measure less the length of line C > n the back and place dot 8- 

Measure l A inch less than '-i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8, 
and place dot 9- 

Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr° m hie B. an d 
place dot 10- 

Place the corner of square on dot 10 a nd draft line E "straight out. 

Place letter R on une E 8 inches from dot 10 a nd draft line F to dot 8- 

Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 a nd place dot H. 

Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. 

Place letter V on dot 12 a nd draft line Q to dot 3- 

Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line B- 

Measure 1 1 J inches on line R from line D. an d place dot 13. 

Measure 1 inch less than y± of the arm's eye measure straight in from do 
13 a nd place dot 14- 

Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 a nd place dot 15. 

Place letter B on dot 15 a nd draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from 
line R. 

Place the point of the curve on dot 14 and draft to meet line S- (Use 
the small round curve. ) 

Place letter K on dot 14 a nd extend line S to dot 12. 

Place the corner of square on the junction of lines R and B, the edge on dot 
9 and draft line X straight from dot 9. 

Place letter H on dot 9 an d draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7. 

p lace- letter A on dot 15 a nd draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B 



Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in 
the back and then measure that distance down line T fr° m dot 15 and place 
dot 16. 

Place letter M on the end of line F and draft to dot 16. 







SACK COAT BACK. 

Draft lines A and B ' ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure y> inch on line A "" om line B» and place dot 2. 

Measure l /> inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and 
place dot 3. 

Place the point of curve on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 

Measure the length of back measure on line A fr° m 'i ne B» and place dot 4. 

Measure one-fifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place 
dot 5- 

Measure the length of the coat (usually from 27 to 30 inches) on line A 
from line B» and place dot 6. 

Draft line D straight out the distance between dots 4 and 5. 

Place letter }ff on line A 1 % inches below dot 4 and draft to meet line A 8 
inches below dot 2- 

Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 9. 

Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. 

Place the corner of the square on dot 3» tne edge on dot 10 and draft line H 
the length of shoulder and place dot H. 

Measure l / 2 inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from 
dot 11 and place dot 12. 

Place the long arm of square on line A. the short arm on dot 12. and meas- 
ure lV inches less than % of chest measure and place dot 13. 

Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. 

Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line K to dot 5. 

Continue line K straight to the end of line D. 

TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT. 

Chest 1. — Around the chest, under the coat, take this measure easy not too 
tight. 

Waist 2." ^Around the waist, above the hips, easy not too tight. 

Front J. — From joint on back of neck to the waist line in front. 

Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line. 

Under Ann 5. — From snug up under the arm to waist line. 

Shoulder 6. — Hold tape line snug against the neck to point of shoulder. 

Neck 7. — Around the neck easy above the collar. 

Arm's Eye 8. — Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug. 

COAT SLEEVE. 

First. — From point of shoulder to point of elbow. 
Second. — From point of elbow to hand. 
Third. — Around arm below shoulder the width desired. 
Fourth. — Around arm below elbow the width desired. 
Fifth. — Around hand the width desired. 

MEASURE FOR COAT. 

Chest 35 

Waist. 3 1 

Front 23 

Back . 20 

Under Arm 10 

Shoulder. - - - - 6 

Neck -- - 14 

Arm's Eye 18 

Length - 29 




COAT SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. . 

Measure I inch on line A from line B» and place dot 2- 

Measure I J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line B from "line A^ 
and place dot 3- 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3- 

Measure y 2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro* 
line B> and place dot 4- 

Measure 3 + inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5- 

Measure l inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out 
trom dot 5 an d place dot Q. 

Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A 
from dot 4» and place dot 7- 

Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7- 

Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7» and place dot 8- 

Draft line F straight out from dot 8- 

Measure J 3 of the first measure around the arm on line F from dot 8. and place 
dot 9. 

Measure I inch more than )/ 2 the first measure around the arm on line F 
from dot 8» and place dot 10- 

Measure 3 inches on line A from dot 7> and place dot \\. 

Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12. 

Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line Q to dot 12. 

Place the point of curve on dot 9 and draft to dot 12. 

Measure 1 l ~ inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 13. 

Place letter T on dot 9 and draft line H to dot 13. 

Draft line J from dot 13 to dot 6. 

Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 3. / 



UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE. 




Draft lines A and B '2 inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 1 inch on line A from line B> and place dot 2- 

Measure y 2 inch less than X A the hand measure on line B from line A> and 
place dot 3. 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. 

Measure yi inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fr° m 
line B and place dot 4. 

Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 

Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out 
from dot 5 and place dot Q. 

Place letter W on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2. 

Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A 
from dot 4 and place dot 7. 

Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. 

Measure 4 inches on line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. 

Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou: 
from dot 8 an d place dot 9. 

Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9. 

Place letter Vf on dot 9 and draft line G to dot 6. 

Place letter M on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 3. 

MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE. 

Shoulder to Elbow . 15 

Elbow to Wrist 10 

Around Arm Below Shoulder 16^ 

Around Arm Below Elbow 1 5 *4 

Around Hand 12 





10 



3 B 




COAT COLLAR. 

Draft lines A and B l /\ inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Measure I y inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line A from line 
B, and place dot 2. 

Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A» and place dot 3. 

Draft line C 3 V? inches straight out from dot 2. 

Measure 2 inches on line C from dot 2» and place dot 4. 

Measure y x inch down from dot 2 on line A and draft line D to dot 4. 

Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J- 

Place letter K on line E 4 inches from dot 3. and draft line F to dot 4- 

VEST— FRONT. 

Draft lines A id B ' inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure y 2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line 
B, and place dot 2- 

Measure ^ inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. 
and place dot 3- 

Measure y inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Place letter E on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and % inch straight out and place 
dot 5. 

Draft from dot 4 to dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on line A. and measure down 
from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and 
place dot 6- 

Place letter W on dot 5, and draft line D to dot 6- 

Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and 
place dot 7- 

Place letter F on dot 7 and draft to dot 6- 

Place the corner of square on dot 2 and measure straight out 2 inches more 
than y of chest measure and place dot 8- 

Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y, inchet 
more than j£ of waist measure and place dot 9- 

Place letter N on dot 9 and draft line E from dot 8 to \\/> inches below 
dot 9. 

Place letter Q on dot 7 and draft line F to the end of line E- 

Measure 1 inch less than the shoulder measure on line B from dot 3» and 
place dot 10. 

Measure 1 y, inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 

Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3- 

Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12- 

Measure 2 y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13. 

Place letter D on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8- 

Place letter on dot 13 and continue line S to dot H. 

Measure 2 inches in on line S from dot 8 and take a dart y inch and finish 
1 y inches in. 

VEST— BACK. 

Draft lines A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure y inch on line A from line B. and place dot 2- 

Measure y of neck measure on line B» from line A» and place dot 3. 

Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2- 

Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. and place dot 8- 

Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up 

from dot 8- 

Measure 2 inches more than y of the arm's eye measure on line A h"°m line 

B, and place dot 6- — 



cl B 




2 a 2 




Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out I Y inches mo*e 
than Y of the chest measure and place dot 7- 

Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out I Y inches more 
than Y of waist measure and place dot 9- 

Place letter H ' Y? inches below dot 9. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft 
line E to dot ^ from letter H- 

Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line F to the end of line E- 

Measure z inches less than the shoulder measure on line B fr° m dot 3» and 
place dot \Q. 

Measure 3 % inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Draft line Q from dot 3 to dot H. 

Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12- 

Measure 2 Y inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line S to dot 13- (Use the 
round edge) . 

Place letter K on dot 13 and extend line S to dot \\. 

NOTCHED COLLAR. 

Draft lines A and B Y i" cn n ' om tne e< ^8 e ano - en< * °^ goods- 
Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line 

B, and place dot 2- 

Measure 2 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 m eet line A 8 inches from dot 2- 

Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/ 2 inches straight out and place 

dot 5- 

Place letter M on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5- 

Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 5- 

Place the corner of square so that the 1 inch mark will rest on lines D and E. 

and draft lines P and G- (See diagram). 

TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST. 

Chest 1. — Around the chest under the coat, just a smooth measure. 
Waist 2. — Around waist under the coat easy, not too tight. 
Front J. — From joint in back of neck to waist line in front. 
Back 4. — From joint in neck to waist line. 
Under Arm j.— -Snug from under the arm to waist line. 
Shoulder 6. — Hold the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the 
point of shoulder. 

Neck 7. — -Around the neck above the collar easy. 

Arm' s .fy^.— Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug. 

MEASURE FOR VEST. 

Chest 34 

Waist 30 

Front 23 

Back 20 

Under Arm . . . " 10 

Shoulder. 6 

Neck . 14 

Arm's Eye 18 

TROUSERS. 
FRONT. 

Draft lines A and B V2 inch from the end and edge of goods. 
Measure 1 Y inches on line B from line A. and place dot 2- 
Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line B- 
Measure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. and place dot 3 
Draft line C straight out from dot 3- 




Measure 3 incnes straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Place the corner of square on dot 4 and draft line D to meet line A 8 inches 

below line B- 

Measure up line A from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5- 

Draft line E straight out from dot 5- 

Measure the distance from knee to bottom, up line A fr° m dot 3» and place 

dot 6- 

Draft line p straight out from dot 6- 

Measure y£ of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7 

Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8- 

Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9- 

Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10- 

Draft line 6 from dot ^ to dot 10- 

Place letter D on dot 10 and continue line G to dot 8- 

Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr° m li ,le D and place dot H. 

Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8- 

Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr° m dot 4 and place dot 12- 

Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12- 

Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up. 

Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4- 



BACK. 

Draft lines A and B '2 ' ncn fr om the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 1 l X inches more than y£ of the waist measure on line B from line 
A, and place dot 2- 

Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3- 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 

Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C fr om dot 3> and place dot 4- 

Measure l± inch from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5- 

Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge even with line C» and draft 
line D down 4 inches. 

Draft line E from dot 4 to the end of line D- 

Measure y 2 inch less than the outside leg measure on line A fr° m dot 3. and 
place dot 6- 

Draft line P straight out from dot 6. 

Measure y^ inch less than the inside leg measure up line A from dot 6. and 
place dot 7- 

Draft line G straight out from dot 7- 

Measure y£ inch less than the measure from knee to bottom on line A up 
from dot Q and place dot 8- 

Draft line H straight out from dot 8- 

Measure 2^ inches on line G fr° m dot 7> and place dot 9- 

Measure 3 yt inches less than 14 of hip measure on line G fr° m dot 9. and 
place dot 10- 

Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H. 

Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and place dot 12- 

Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9- 

Place the corner of square on dot 12, the edge on dot H, and draft line J 
extending 3 inches above dot H. 

Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J. 

Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13- 

Place letter U on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up. 

Measure 2 }4 inches in on line G from dot 10, and place dot 14- 

Draft line K from dot 2 to dot 14- 

Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches 
up from dot 14- 

Measure 2 inches more than yi of knee measure on line H from dot 1 1 and 
place dot 15- 

Place letter G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15- 

Measure y 2 inch more than yi of the bottom measure on line F from dot 
12 and place dot 16- 



Draft from dot 15 to dot 16- 

Measure y x inch out from dot 16 on line F and place dot 17- 

Place letter S on dot 17 and draft to meet line L %/4 inches above dot 16- 



TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. 

Waist I . — Around the waist easy, not tight. 

Hips 2. — Around the fullest part of hips rather snug. 

Knee J. — Around the knee the width desired. 

Bottom 4. — Around below the ankle the width desired. 

Outside Leg Measure 5. — From waist line the length desired. 

Inside Leg Measure 6. — From crotch the length desirea. 

Leg Measure f. — From knee to bottom. 




MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. 

Waist 30 

Hips - 3S 

Knee 18 

Bottom 17 

Outside Leg 41 

Inside Leg 31 

Knee to Bottom 1 8 

SHIRT— FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B ! j inch from the end of goods. 

Measure y? mcn more than y% of the neck measure on line A from line B> 
and place dot 2- 

Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A? 
and place dot 3- 

Place letter D on dot 2 an d draft line C to dot 3- 

Measure I y inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line 
B, and place dot 4- 

Draft line H straight out, beginning 9 inches from dot 4- 

Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr° m dot 4» and place dot 5- 

Measure 1 ; inches down line A from line B. and place dot 6- 

Draft line D 3 % inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7- 

Place the short arm of square on line B. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E 
to line B- 

Place letter L on line D 1 yi inches from dot 6 and draft line F to meet line 
E 6 inches from dot 7- 

Place letter A on line B l{ ' ncn fr° m dot 3. and draft line G to meet line E 
2 yi inches from line B- 

Measure -,i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8- 

Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr° m 
line B. and place dot 9- 

Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q, 
and place dot 10- 

Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. 

Place letter M on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H. 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi, inch straight in and 
place dot 12- 

Place letter D on dot 12 and draft line S to dot 5- 

Place letter N on dot 12 and continue line S to dot H. 

Measure y{> inch less than the distance between dots 4 and 5 straight oul 
from dot 6 and place dot 13- 

Measure I y^ inches more than the distance between dots 6 and 13 straigh 
out from dot 8 an d place dot 14- 

Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line T to dot 13- 

Place letter Z on dot 13 and continue line T to dot 14. 




Place the corner of square on line A ]A inch above dot 9> and Measure 
straight out 3^ inches less than the distance between dots 8 and 14 and place 
dot 15. 

Place letter X on dot 15 and draft to dot 14- 

Place letter H on dot 15 and draft to dot 9- " 

BACK. 

Use the fold or goods for line A- 

Draft line B ,'/2 inch from the end ot goods. 

Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B» and place dot 2- 

Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3- 

Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4- 

Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold 
of goods. 

Measure I it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line 
B, and place dot 5- 

Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot 
5 and place dot 6- 

Measure 2 3 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. and place dot 7- 

Measure 1 inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out 
from dot 7 and place dot 8- 

Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9- 

Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9- (Use the round 
edge). 

Place letter H on dot 9 and continue line E to dot 4- 

Place the corner of square on line A ' inch above dot 2 and measure straight 
out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10- 

Place letter T on dot 10, the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from 
dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve. 

Place letter H on the end of line F and draft to dot 6. 

Place letter F on dot 10 and draft to dot 2- 




V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx A:V\.*.<v ^a<tvcL 



Sleeve f d.GA.wg'' 




YOKE. 

Draft line A l /2 'nch from the edge of goods. 

Use the fold of goods for line B- 

Measure yi inch less than y£ of the neck measure on line A fr° m 2ne B» 

and place dot 2- 

Measure the length of shoulder on line A from dot 2, and place dot 3- 

Draft line C 2 } : i inches straight out from dot 3- 

Measure 2 inches on line B from li ne A» and place dot 4- 

Measure l' 2 inch more than y£ of neck measure straight out from dot 2 and 

place dot 5- 

Place letter (J on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 5- 

Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line E to the end of line (J- 

For an open back add y$ inch to the distance given in the third instruction 
for dot 2- 

SHIRT BAND. 

Draft lines A and B yi inch from the edge and end of goods. 

Measure 1 1 ' 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 2- 

Measure 1 ]^ inches on line B from dot 2, and - place dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch more than y^ the neck measure on line A trom line B» ana 

place dot 4- 

Draft line C 1 %. inches straight out from dot 4- 

Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2- 

Place letter H on the end of line C and draft line E to dot 3- 

Place letter A on line C % inch in from line E and draft to meet line E 3 

inches from line C- 

Place the corner of square on line E % inch from dot 3 and draft to dot % 

For open front add i/^ inch from the end of line (J- (See dotted Sines). 




SHIRT SLEEVE. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- 

Draft line B ^2 ™ c h from the end of goods. 

Measure 3 inches less than the hand measure on line B fr° m line A» and 
place dot 2- 

Measure the length of sleeve on line A from line B. and place dot 3- 

Measure 1 inch more than the hand measure straight out from dot 3 ar >d 
place dot 4- 

Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar >d place dot 5- 

Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3- 

Draft line D from dot 5 to dot 2- 

Allow 1/^ inch above line C f° r facing. (See dotted lines) . 

TO TAKE MEASURE FOR SHIRT. 

Chest. — Around the chest, under the coat, take a smooth measure, not t5ght. 
Neck. — Around the bare neck easy. 

Shoulder.- — Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the 
shirt, and measure to the point of shoulder. 

Length. — From the joint in neck the length desired. 
Sleeve — From the point of shoulder the length desired. 
Hand. — Around the hand loose.. 

MEASURE FOR SHIRT. 

• 

Chest 35 

Neck 14 

Shoulder 6 

Length 35 

Hand ;o 

Sleeve 1-cngth. .• . Jf. 








i ^ 


- ■ 1 



B^cK £<xcl<vg nt x 2'h vwcKes 



"fefccV. f».cvt\.^ IS x /i \.v\.cV\.<if 



Uknna Pattern Co. 

THE LATEST 
IMPORTED AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS IN 

Crinoline and Paper Patterns 

and Models 



AT PRICES MUCH LESS THAN ELSEWHERE 



Patterns Cut from Any Design 



r£*t^ 



VIENNA PATTERN CO. 

5 West 14th Street NEW YORK 



*\K< 



7 






MAY 



TOILETTES 



SINGLE COPIES. 25c. 



ONLY $2.00 A YEAR 



The American Fashion Magazine 

PRACTICAL, STRICTLY ORIGINAL 

Costumes designed by AMERICA'S Leading Fashion 

Artists. Always used by Manufacturers to 

Show Coming Styles. 



With JUNIOR TOILETTES 

Best Patterns in the World Stock Sizes and Cut to Measure 

Toilettes Fashion Co. 

26 East 22d St. Toilettes Building New York 



AGENTS WANTED AM information will be cheerfully answered by mail 



Cbc Acme SelMimuctor 



OF 



Dressmaking and... 

...Ladies' tailoring 



BY 



SOPHIE KLUG 

No cutting or drafting system, but a book containing thirty -five 
chapters of information and minute instructions on every detail of the art 
— fully described and illustrated. No woman should be without it. 

Price, $i.oo. Sent postpaid on receipt of price. 

S. KLUG 



Vienna Institute 

5W. 14th St., NY. 



54 WEST 23d ST., Room 22 
New York. 



LE PETIT HAITRE.... 



HOME TEACHER OF 
MILLINERY 

This is the only publication of the kind printed. Anyone at 
all bright, and following the instructions, can readily acquire the art of 
Millinery, as every point, from the making of wire frames to the 
final finishing of the hat or bonnet, is fully explained. 

This book we cannot recommend too highly. Madame 
Melcher, the author, is the principal teacher in our Vienna Millinery 
Institute, and is very competent. 

PRICE $1.00 

«£* •3* «5* 
SEND ORDERS TO THE 

Vienna Hillinery Institute 

32 EAST J4th STREET 

I TTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTT tt T TTT TT T T TTT T T 1 TTTT T T TTTTT 5 

\ Cbe marvel of all Dressmakers ] 




ClK most up-to-date ««««•« 
« fashion magazine in the World. 



X 16 Colored Plates 

I and 32 Pages of Black and White 
Illustrations — purely fashion. 



\ For Sale by all Newsdealers. 

Price, 15 Cents. 
Subscriptions, $1.50 a year. 

r If your dealer has not got it, send 15 cents for 
Specimen Copy to rmHtwiiii 

I ELITE STYLES CO. 

L54 W. 23d ST., NEW YORK. \ 









SPECIAL NOTICE 

It is a criminal offence punishable by fine and 
imprisonment — to copy any part of our Instruc- 
tion Book or our curved Rule — any person us- 
ing our Curved Rule without our consent (ex- 
cept with our system of Cutting) is equally guilty. 
We will not permit any infringement upon our 
Patents and Copyrights, any one guilty will be 
prosecuted in the United State Courts to the 
fullest extent. We will give $50 reward to any 
one furnishing evidence sufficient to convict. 



1* 






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